Happy Sunday to all! Such a fine day to be working on the teener. Quick update: fenders on, rear tailing arms installed and rotors drilled. Rotors needed a little file action to make them fit but all good. Now for the questions....

1. Am I going to need the little slot headed machine screws that hold the rotor to the hub? Not sure if this is a deal breaker but I will have to redrill the rotors/hubs as the holes don't line up

2. When pushing the rotor on to the hub it doesn't want to seat all the way down...see lip on rotor marked in red...

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...hitting hub marked in red...

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...leaving gap marked in red...

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I've got this on both sides. Can I 'modify' the hub to clear the lip on the inside of the rotor? Use some kind of washers or spacer to give it the 1/8" it needs to seat level? Bring in a witch doctor with a live chicken? I welcome any ideas...

Bill

Oh, and props to the member who can give me the movie for the thread title..

Bill

From what I understand the screw just holds the rotor when the wheels are off. It is not essential provided the wheel bolts on properly and there isn't enough slop in the 5 lug holes to cause imbalance.

The gap seems like it would be an issue. Seems to me like if the rotor is hitting the hub, the holes aren't centered properly. Having the studs or rotor mounted eccentrically seem like a bad idea. Just my 2 cents.

-Ross

The rotor should fit on the hub just fine, and I don't see any damage or deformation that would cause them NOT to fit. On the other hand, the wheel studs look off center in the holes and could be causing the misalignment. I bet if you took out all the studs you'd find the rotor fits perfectly. Hate to say it, but either the hubs or the rotor are wrong.

If the wheel studs aren't aligned correctly it can cause the lug nuts not to seat properly which could lead to self-loosening lug nuts or worse, broken/cracked wheels.

Something is not concentric and you need to figure out if the studs are EXACTLY where they belong first. One hole should have been reused from the original casting. . . that is the only one you can be positive that it is in the right place. . . measure off that hole only . . . Since this is suppose to be percision machining, measuring needs to be done in the same manner. . with percision instruments
the brake drum must fit flatly against the hub. . no spacing. . . or the rotor wont run true in the caliper.

The big concern is that the bolts are in the correct / concentric distance from the center of the hub and match the rim holes precisely. . once you are positive about that, then figure out whats different about the drum. . . try another drum . .

hopefully it is a matter of the hub holes being incorrect, you may be able to machine the hub {Red Area} to let the drum sit flush, but if the hub is what is wrong, it would be better to machine the inner diameter of the drum to clear the hub. . What I'm saying is don't cut the proper part to make the incorrect part fit. .

If you question the placement of the studs in the hub, I'm sort of tending to believe you're going to have to pull the hub, put in on a lathe and give it a spin to measure the concentricity of the studs. Once the hub is on a lathe you could then just turn the outer {red} area down to clear. .

Thank you all for the feedback and reading what y'all posted I'm going to go with the rotors not being drilled exactly as I had to file some of the holes to get them on the hub. I will investigate further with this new insight and post my findings.

This one?

Zardoz, The Movie
Fallen asleep to it many times...

Zardozz,

Seeing as you're in OC, I may have a set of hubs/rear susp. if you're interested. PM me and I'll check it out.