Thinking about using one of these for the planned 1.8t or TDI conversion.
If I mounted the rocco rad as far forward as poss. and used the low profile flexalite elec fan how much exhaust space is needed? I would like to be able to still keep a spare and other items in the lower front. Is this feasible?

I thought most rad's put in 914's were of the double rowed variety? From most of the pics I have seen here, it looks like you cut a little bit of the fender wells out, seems to work well. I am on air head though. Hopefully some H2O guys will chime in for you.

I'm using a scirocco style radiator from Griffin (sp?) with a dual fan and regular cutout in the wheel wells. I am also using a space save spare against the front bulkhead - plenty of room for it.

A general rule of thumb is to ensure the exhaust area is greater than the intake area of the fan(s). An equal or lesser area adds too much restriction. It can get complicated depending on the relative air pressures before the intake and after the exhaust. That is, you want the air intake to be in a higher pressure area than the exhaust.

Phoenix- Do you have any sort of cover or other "upper trunk floor" so that other objects can be carried in the front trunk?

do a search here for "renegade hybrids"...that rad. is just about the same size as the unit renegade sells....I'm pretty sure Fiid is using the same scirocco/corrado rad. in his Subaru install.

I was going to, but decided to get the renegade unit

has anyone looked at the jeep cherokee radiator? Its 11x31 and double pass are available. Looks like it will just fit lenghtwise and it real low profile, kinda like a oil cooler. Gt like shroud with bottom exit would save a good part of the trunk.....???????

Flyloki,
I don't have anything else up front besides the spare, it will be sitting upright against the bulkhead.

Another shot

Phoenix-

So does it exhaust out the two holes in the floor?

no. the air goes out through the BF-Hole in the fenderwell where you can see the strut and brakes ...

Andy

Now - Now The holes on the bottom of the floor are where the hoses will run through.

[QUOTE]no. the air goes out through the BF-Hole in the fenderwell



Yeah, I saw that after I posted .....Should have been hard to miss with the purple background!

nice setup

The holes in the floor are going down through to directly under the lowest part of the car. To make that sharp angle, you will have to install elbows in the lines, I dont suggest you do that and strongly suggest you consider another route. If you do it right, you can cut holes in below the gas tank exiting by the steering rack and the hose will not be in danger of hitting the ground when you hit a dip in the road. You will also not need an elbow where it can come apart. Nothing should exit the floor of your trunk. I will see if I can find some pictures and post them of where it should run.

I found one, see where these hoses are running? That is where they should run and there is plenty of room for them in that spot without bending them too sharply.

Here are two more showing the hoses NOT running through the floor. The second one is a car owned by Renegade.

Old picture of the Orange Renegade car. It is still the same, this picture was taken at the Pomona swap meet June 3rd 2001 before they moved to Vegas.

can i ask a few questions on that rad. ?

how thick is it including the fans ?
how big of a motor can it handle ?
what do the other sides measure ?

why i ask is i am slowly doing a suby 2.5 ( so slow i havent touched it in a year and a half ) and i was planing on putting the rad. in front of the motor. i have about 4 inches if the rad. is plumb or 6 six i tilt it. i was going to put a 28 by 3 inch scoop right under the firewall. and i have a ford probe rad. that fits well but i need fans and that unit looks too nice not to ask...

scott t

Rules of thumb ( for us V8 guys ) ...

Area of radiator ( sq in ) should be about 1.5 x the CID of the engine. 283 CID V-8, for example, would be 1.5 x 283 = 424.5 square inches. That could be, for example, a radiator measuring 16 x 26 ( 416 ).

Exhaust area should be 1.7 x frontal area. If frontal area was 6 x 24 ( 144 sq in ), then exhaust should be 144 x 1.7 = 244.8 sq in. Divided between 2 wheel wells, that's 244.8 / 2 = 122 sq in per wheel well which could be, for example, 6 x 20 or 8 x 15.

Good luck ...

I' ve read this in Ed Ducey's V8 book.

So if I want to install a 350, I would need a radiator with frontal area of 350 x 1.5 or 525 quare inches.

I am getting ready to purchase my radiator, but I get confused when I read all of the radiator threads where they are running radiators with smaller frotal areas (like the Griffin's Scirocco, P/N 2-28185-X, 22x13 = 286 square inches or AFCO's 80133N which is 16 x 27.5 = 440 suare inches ) with their v8 setup. Is this possible because it's a double pass radiator? I think a 2 core aluminum is sufficient. The small size is nice because sits vertically and take up the least amount of front truck space. Also, should I purchase a radiator with or without the filler hole.

So the old question persists... other than the Renegade setup, what's the best radiator setup for a 350 SBC? Please include as much information as possible... Mfg, model, single pass or double pass, size etc...

Thanks!

the hp of the motor is also a factor, a really mild 350 won't produce as much heat as a really high preformance 283. hp = thermal units of energy.

and a double pass radiator is more effient than a single pass, so you could get away with less radiated area.

it's best to just call one of the manufactures and tell them what you have for an engine and the diamentions of the area you have to put the radiator in.

Good idea.

The 350 is pretty much stock and has about 220-240 HP.

You also have to consider water flow and fluid dynamics. Too little flow = too much heat. Too much flow = too much heat. Generally, at idle the 914 will heat up on a hot day from too little flow. Too much flow and the water will not spend enough time being cooled. Water wetter can be used to increase surface tension of the water to assist cooling.

There is no best radiator for a 914 V8 conversion. coolant flow and air flow will determine how any radiator cools.

I just read somewhere that a double pass radiator increases internal presures by 16x and reduces flow by 35%. How can this be an advantage over a single pass radiator?

Because it cools it an extra say 70%.

I highly doubt it increases internal pressures by 16x. MAYBE in certain area's.. but that would mean that the radiator cap, if it was 15lbs it would now need to be 240lbs...

Sounds like your giving a definite yes vote to the double pass. Are you using one in your vehicle? What are the specs?

Single pass in mine. Big ass Griffin radiator.

Double pass is generally more expensive and if you have the coin, Go for it. Lets just say that Rennegade, who makes the most conversion v8 kits, uses a double pass.

To cool the 1.6L TD that I put into my Suzuki Samurai I went with this.

http://www.evanscooling.com/coolants/

It doesn't freeze, or boil, and you can run it in a low pressure system.

please post or link your reference.

Here's the link:

http://www.stewartcomponents.com/tech_tips/Tech_Tips_5.htm

The part reads:

"Double pass radiators require 16x more pressure to flow the same volume of coolant through them, as compared to a single pass radiator. Triple pass radiators require 64x more pressure to maintain the same volume. Automotive water pumps are a centrifugal design, not positive displacement, so with a double pass radiator, the pressure is doubled and flow is reduced by approximately 33%. Modern radiator designs, using wide/thin cross sections tubes, seldom benefit from multiple pass configurations. The decrease in flow caused by multiple passes offsets any benefits of a high-flow water pump."

heres some more but contradictory info.

http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/forum/s...3852&page=3

Damn, That stuff is expensive.

Expensive, but you never have to replace it.

How about when the front outlet hose blows off like everyone with a SBC conversion has dealt with?

That would suck. "Well there goes 70 bucks"

Thats why I fill mine with water...

No pressure is need with the Evans coolant. Pressure in water based coolant is there to help create a higher boiling point for the system. No need to worry about a high pressure blowout. The only pressure that is need is the pressure created by the pump to circulate the fluid.

Straight water and aluminum don't get along well for very long. I put a new single pass aluminum radiator in my 91 3/4 4wd suburban and it cools great on 100f days with the ac on. I think the rad is 19x 32. The 350 is probably about 190 hp.