In the box of parts that my Dad dropped off for my '71.

Purchased in mid-90ish. In original packaging.

Questions:
What is the deal with these brake lines?

How do these differ from other SS lines rated by the DOT?

Could I comfortably use these for a car that would be an occasional driver?

If used, what are the positive and negative outcomes?

Any "heads up" things to look out for? Etc.

Thanks!





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The problem being if they fail, there's no warning and it's a total brake failure.

On race cars the are frequently examined, and replaced more often than on street cars.

Do not use these on the street. I think these are used in racing but are not certified for DOT or highway use. I use the same type that are certified DOT on my cars, just get into an accident thus liability. Simple as that.

Steve

My car came with non DOT SS brake lines, been on sinse 1994, never had a problem

I did just get new ones put on last week DOT this time

If you use them keep an eye on them, Check your car regualy.

I had a SS line fail on me once. Not a big deal really. It was not a panic stop.
Other three wheel's brakes worked fine.

Good food for thought in both camps.

My question in my mind would be how do these differ from DOT rated lines? Is there any sort of difference in the manufacture/construction/engineering of the lines or is it simply not wanting to jump through a "regulation" on the manufacturers side of things?

I am not poo-pooing standards for safety etc...

What does the DOT rating consist of anyway?

I'm Curious. Anyone know?

Yes, I know. Sorry, this is going to be long...

Once upon a time I cut, fitted, and crimped those exact lines at Russell.

The DOT certification is based on the likeliness of kinking the line at the fitting interface. There is no difference in the line material.

The Russell way of doing this was to create a fitting with a 2" long teflon sleeve that went between the outside of the line and the crimped-on fitting and acted as a strain relief. I was never really thrilled with the way those crimped down. It seemed like the line was more likely to be able to pull from the fitting under pressure.

That was for short lines. Beyond a certain length (maybe 18 inches - I don't remember) there was no difference between the DOT and the standard, as it was felt that the long line would have the flexibility to not kink at the fitting. Well there was one difference - the braided line was inked with DOT markings and they cost more (to pay for the approval process).

Should you run them?

If you install them so they won't get kinked they will be fine. I've seen them fail - testing a car brought in with spongy pedal I pressed down harder than the customer's normal braking pressure and the line burst with a bang. Luckily it was in my shop parking lot. That would have been his next panic stop (I was not pressing all that hard). Although only one brake circuit was lost, the resulting unexpected drop in the pedal would not be fun in a heavy braking situation. The problem was improper installation putting a kink in the line (customer had just purchased the highly modified car, so we don't know how long it had been like that).

I've had a set on a 944 for 15 years. I think about them more than rubber lines and check them when it is on the lift (never had an issue). I'll probably switch them to rubber the next time I do some brake work, and then I'll have to change them every 10 years. I run them on my hotrods because it is the easiest way to do custom lengths and fittings.

I think the DOT cert is worthless - if you install the line wrong it will fail if is it a DOT version or not - I don't think it provides enough of a difference to matter.

I also don't think the braided line provides enough operational difference to matter over a rubber line. A rubber line won't kink, but I have seen a burst rubber line from being too old and swollen, so they need to be periodically checked/changed no matter what type.

Thanks for sharing your experience! I always appreciated when folks with firsthand knowledge are able to step in and give us the straight poop.

BTW, I did have a braided line fail back in the day. Don't remember how it was installed, but it was a short, rear line, so I assume the kinking was probably the cause.

First of all, they are flexible, they are called hose. Line is rigid, not flexible.

Many of you have probably noticed writing and even lines running down the side of hoses. This is printed there so that when you install the hose you can see that it has no twist. Steel braided hose doesn’t have this. It’s up to the person doing the installation to get it right. Twisting of the hose is where most of your pressure hose failures stem from. You cannot inspect steel braided hose. It is removed and replaced at predetermined intervals weather it is good or not. Steel braided hose takes a set after installation, so it generally not reused. In off road (dirt) there are some advantages to the extra abrasion resistance. But the main reason that steel braided hose is used for brakes is that it gives a firmer pedal, and better feel for braking.

I beg to disagree. The wording sense seems blurred. For example what we call hose was once called hose pipe, and people wore hose on their legs. The fabric aspect seems to play an important part in a hose. I am not likely to find people calling flexible metal tubes hoses, and I have often heard of flexible fuel lines. I see what you mean though, and catalogs try to make a clear distinction between the liquid delivery component that is meant to flex, and that which only flexes by mistake.

But in regards to the topic, I have to admit that I bit and bought what looked cool over what is just as safe, cheaper, and in the end more practical. I mean, it has braided stainless steel on the outside!

For most braided hoses it's the difference is the DOT "whip" test. Teflon hose is better than rubber hose in every way but one, if it's kinked it loses structural integrity. And the bad part about braided hoses is that kinking isn't always visible. If the hose is installed and used according to the instructions that isn't a problem, but if you dangle the calipers from that hose, for example, the way everyone in your life has told you not to, you've probably damaged the hose.

To simulate that the DOT tests include whipping, where the hoses are secured by the fitting on one end and whipped back and forth. The intention is to stress the hose at the fitting, so for the hoses to pass the DOT tests the manufacturers will put a clear short plastic sleeve that supports the hose there and prevents it from kinking during the whipping. I think Russell does that, most do. Generally that and the labeling are the only differences between DOT and non-DOT hose.

I have them on my car because I think technically they're a better hose, but the big difference is that I do the work on my brakes, no one else. If a non-specialist shop did the work, or if I bought a car with them already installed I'd be uneasy, because you never know. But for me they're worth it. And for what it's worth they come stock on all higher-performance motorcycles, and even some lower performance ones, like my newer BMW's.

There are DOT Approved Stainless Steel Braided brake lines on the market.

For example:

http://thmotorsports.com/i-497111.aspx?utm...CFQxshwodhQQAhw

Maybe you have are Stainless Steel Braided BREAK lines ...