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gollygwagen
I was able to work on the 914 for the first time today. I decided I needed a base line for some of the more important parts to I replaced everything on the ignition side. (cap, rotor, points, condenser, coil, plugs) It seems to be running better, but on a highway cruise one of the spark plug wires popped off. I pulled over, put it back on and all is good, but they don't seem to have very good hold of the plug. They are a set of Bosch wires recently replaced, so I wasn't going to replace them. But with this proving an issue already I was wondering if there was a better option out there.

Other questions. I got a set of points to put in but it looks like it's been converted to electronic ignition. Is that a pretty reliable system? It's not stock is it?

The old plugs were gaped much tighter (0.024 vs 0.028) and I wanted to see if I had it right at 0.028. Seems to run better, bet that might possibly be because they are torqued down instead of hand tight like the others seemed to have been. blink.gif

Also, where is the temperature sensor on the engine? I'm not showing any reading and wanted to be sure it was at least hooked up.

Lastly, there is a fuel junction under the air cleaner towards the front. It has an electrical connection and two fuel lines. One runs to each set of injectors. What is it's purpose? It was leaking when I picked the car up and I unplugged it and it seems to have been fine sense but I'm assuming I want that to work eventually.

I'll stop there for now, I don't want to wear out my welcome. I need to get back to pulling the tranny out of the Audi. Play time with the 914 is over.
JawjaPorsche
I love my Fyrebraid plug wires. They also have a cool factor too! I like how they stay up off the engine too.

http://www.automotion.com/ignition-wires-f...-1970-1976.html

wingnut86
Which motor have you got?

I have a brand new set of Clewett Engineering Performance wires, still in the box - unused (red verson). But they only fit a 1.7 or 1.8.

These wires are supposed to be some of the best you can buy for our rides, and they stick to the plugs real well...

PM me if interested...
timothy_nd28
If he passes, I'll buy your wire set. chowtime.gif
gollygwagen
QUOTE(wingnut86 @ Aug 19 2012, 04:55 PM) *

Which motor have you got?

I have a brand new set of Clewett Engineering Performance wires, still in the box - unused (red verson). But they only fit a 1.7 or 1.8.

These wires are supposed to be some of the best you can buy for our rides, and they stick to the plugs real well...

PM me if interested...


I've got a 1.7, so I'll take them. Thanks!
wingnut86
His thread, we'll wait and see if he wants to go in this direction or not.

I know his pain, I have a brand new set of Bosch's as well, still in the box huh.gif
timothy_nd28
QUOTE(gollygwagen @ Aug 19 2012, 01:09 PM) *

I was able to work on the 914 for the first time today. I decided I needed a base line for some of the more important parts to I replaced everything on the ignition side. (cap, rotor, points, condenser, coil, plugs) It seems to be running better, but on a highway cruise one of the spark plug wires popped off. I pulled over, put it back on and all is good, but they don't seem to have very good hold of the plug. They are a set of Bosch wires recently replaced, so I wasn't going to replace them. But with this proving an issue already I was wondering if there was a better option out there.

Other questions. I got a set of points to put in but it looks like it's been converted to electronic ignition. Is that a pretty reliable system? It's not stock is it?

The old plugs were gaped much tighter (0.024 vs 0.028) and I wanted to see if I had it right at 0.028. Seems to run better, bet that might possibly be because they are torqued down instead of hand tight like the others seemed to have been. blink.gif

Also, where is the temperature sensor on the engine? I'm not showing any reading and wanted to be sure it was at least hooked up.

Lastly, there is a fuel junction under the air cleaner towards the front. It has an electrical connection and two fuel lines. One runs to each set of injectors. What is it's purpose? It was leaking when I picked the car up and I unplugged it and it seems to have been fine sense but I'm assuming I want that to work eventually.

I'll stop there for now, I don't want to wear out my welcome. I need to get back to pulling the tranny out of the Audi. Play time with the 914 is over.


My apologies, as I never read what you posted. It sounds like your mechanical points have been replaced with a solid state module. I personally love this upgrade, because it keeps your dwell angle set perfectly. They do fail though, so keeping a set of points in your glove box is a excellent idea. Make sure you don't leave the ignition on (car not running). Doing this will ruin your pointless module.
I'm not sure which fuel injection system your car has, but if it was me, I would replace all rubber fuel lines thru-out the car. Tangerine Racing sells SS fuel lines, that run thru the center tunnel. This replaces the plastic OEM lines. 914's tend to catch fire, due to fuel leaks. Replacing all fuel lines, gives great peace of mind. Make sure to use German hose clamps as well,,,oh also, replace the rubber O'rings that attach to each fuel injector. The have cheap kits on eBay.
wingnut86
Wires are claimed - just waiting on PM



QUOTE(tim_nd @ Aug 19 2012, 07:19 PM) *

QUOTE(gollygwagen @ Aug 19 2012, 01:09 PM) *

I was able to work on the 914 for the first time today. I decided I needed a base line for some of the more important parts to I replaced everything on the ignition side. (cap, rotor, points, condenser, coil, plugs) It seems to be running better, but on a highway cruise one of the spark plug wires popped off. I pulled over, put it back on and all is good, but they don't seem to have very good hold of the plug. They are a set of Bosch wires recently replaced, so I wasn't going to replace them. But with this proving an issue already I was wondering if there was a better option out there.

Other questions. I got a set of points to put in but it looks like it's been converted to electronic ignition. Is that a pretty reliable system? It's not stock is it?

The old plugs were gaped much tighter (0.024 vs 0.028) and I wanted to see if I had it right at 0.028. Seems to run better, bet that might possibly be because they are torqued down instead of hand tight like the others seemed to have been. blink.gif

Also, where is the temperature sensor on the engine? I'm not showing any reading and wanted to be sure it was at least hooked up.

Lastly, there is a fuel junction under the air cleaner towards the front. It has an electrical connection and two fuel lines. One runs to each set of injectors. What is it's purpose? It was leaking when I picked the car up and I unplugged it and it seems to have been fine sense but I'm assuming I want that to work eventually.

I'll stop there for now, I don't want to wear out my welcome. I need to get back to pulling the tranny out of the Audi. Play time with the 914 is over.


My apologies, as I never read what you posted. It sounds like your mechanical points have been replaced with a solid state module. I personally love this upgrade, because it keeps your dwell angle set perfectly. They do fail though, so keeping a set of points in your glove box is a excellent idea. Make sure you don't leave the ignition on (car not running). Doing this will ruin your pointless module.
I'm not sure which fuel injection system your car has, but if it was me, I would replace all rubber fuel lines thru-out the car. Tangerine Racing sells SS fuel lines, that run thru the center tunnel. This replaces the plastic OEM lines. 914's tend to catch fire, due to fuel leaks. Replacing all fuel lines, gives great peace of mind. Make sure to use German hose clamps as well,,,oh also, replace the rubber O'rings that attach to each fuel injector. The have cheap kits on eBay.

gollygwagen
QUOTE(tim_nd @ Aug 19 2012, 05:19 PM) *

QUOTE(gollygwagen @ Aug 19 2012, 01:09 PM) *

I was able to work on the 914 for the first time today. I decided I needed a base line for some of the more important parts to I replaced everything on the ignition side. (cap, rotor, points, condenser, coil, plugs) It seems to be running better, but on a highway cruise one of the spark plug wires popped off. I pulled over, put it back on and all is good, but they don't seem to have very good hold of the plug. They are a set of Bosch wires recently replaced, so I wasn't going to replace them. But with this proving an issue already I was wondering if there was a better option out there.

Other questions. I got a set of points to put in but it looks like it's been converted to electronic ignition. Is that a pretty reliable system? It's not stock is it?

The old plugs were gaped much tighter (0.024 vs 0.028) and I wanted to see if I had it right at 0.028. Seems to run better, bet that might possibly be because they are torqued down instead of hand tight like the others seemed to have been. blink.gif

Also, where is the temperature sensor on the engine? I'm not showing any reading and wanted to be sure it was at least hooked up.

Lastly, there is a fuel junction under the air cleaner towards the front. It has an electrical connection and two fuel lines. One runs to each set of injectors. What is it's purpose? It was leaking when I picked the car up and I unplugged it and it seems to have been fine sense but I'm assuming I want that to work eventually.

I'll stop there for now, I don't want to wear out my welcome. I need to get back to pulling the tranny out of the Audi. Play time with the 914 is over.


My apologies, as I never read what you posted. It sounds like your mechanical points have been replaced with a solid state module. I personally love this upgrade, because it keeps your dwell angle set perfectly. They do fail though, so keeping a set of points in your glove box is a excellent idea. Make sure you don't leave the ignition on (car not running). Doing this will ruin your pointless module.
I'm not sure which fuel injection system your car has, but if it was me, I would replace all rubber fuel lines thru-out the car. Tangerine Racing sells SS fuel lines, that run thru the center tunnel. This replaces the plastic OEM lines. 914's tend to catch fire, due to fuel leaks. Replacing all fuel lines, gives great peace of mind. Make sure to use German hose clamps as well,,,oh also, replace the rubber O'rings that attach to each fuel injector. The have cheap kits on eBay.


I am in the middle or replacing some of the fuel lines as I type. I'll check that kit and look at doing that right away. I don't know what injection system is on the 1973 1.7, I'm doing a lot of quick learning right now. o-rings sound like a good maintenance item to do, I'll check that out too.

Do you happen to know what this is? It's just flopping around in the engine bay. I would guess a vacuum pump?
IPB Image

Oh, and I'm pretty sure that the thing I unplugged that was leaking was a cold start injector. It's similar to the injectors and goes into the intake manifold. I'm wondering if since the thermostat isn't reading that it can't tell the engine ever gets warm and it just runs poorly unless unplugged. I've got to figure that out before the temps get colder.
timothy_nd28
Looks like you have the D-jet FI system. I'm not all that familiar with this system, but I'm pretty sure that is a MPS sensor in the pic.
I would hold off from driving your 914 for awhile, till all the rubber has been replaced. In the mean time, remove your fuel injectors and cold start valve, and send them to Witch Hunters. I had great luck with this company, very fast turn around.
gollygwagen
QUOTE(tim_nd @ Aug 19 2012, 06:30 PM) *

Looks like you have the D-jet FI system. I'm not all that familiar with this system, but I'm pretty sure that is a MPS sensor in the pic.
I would hold off from driving your 914 for awhile, till all the rubber has been replaced. In the mean time, remove your fuel injectors and cold start valve, and send them to Witch Hunters. I had great luck with this company, very fast turn around.


I'm sorry, help me out with MPS. Does that stand for manifold pressure sensor? On my Audi that's a tiny little sensor, this thing is HUGE! I guess technology marches on, now to find a picture of where it supposed to mount.

After running some 44K though the system today and cleaning up the fuel and vacuum lines it's actually running pretty well, but I'll remember the Witch Hunters for later.

Where do you get "German Hose Clamps" as you stated above? It just good old Gates rubber fuel line adequate for around the engine bay or do you recommend something special for that?
gollygwagen
QUOTE(gollygwagen @ Aug 19 2012, 09:13 PM) *

Where do you get "German Hose Clamps" as you stated above? It just good old Gates rubber fuel line adequate for around the engine bay or do you recommend something special for that?


Never mind, I found Tanerine's site and they sell complete kits to replace everything. I'll just do that.
luskesq
You did remove the round tip on the sparkplugs didn't you? If not you'll never get a good connection regardless of which ignition wires you use.

Keith
timothy_nd28
QUOTE(gollygwagen @ Aug 19 2012, 07:27 PM) *

QUOTE(gollygwagen @ Aug 19 2012, 09:13 PM) *

Where do you get "German Hose Clamps" as you stated above? It just good old Gates rubber fuel line adequate for around the engine bay or do you recommend something special for that?


Never mind, I found Tanerine's site and they sell complete kits to replace everything. I'll just do that.



Glad to hear you bought the Tangerine Racing stainless fuel line kit. It's a great product, and will outlive the life of the car. Since you will be pulling the gas tank out, go ahead and replace the fuel screen sock in the tank and the washers.
Dave_Darling
MPS == Manifold Pressure Sensor. A funky analog electromechanical device that works by varying the inductive coupling between two wire coils.

Explanation of your fuel injection system: http://members.rennlist.com/pbanders . Read through that site and learn it, that will save you a ton of hassle later on.

Plug wires: The Clewett are supposed to be good; never heard of the Fyrebraid; Bosch is known to be a bit iffy, Beru is a solid OEM version.

The temperature gauge on the car would have been unusual in a 1.7, very much so in a 70-72 1.7. Less unusual in the 73 version of the car. It shows oil temperature, and the sender is up inside the round plate on the bottom of the motor, up near the left-front corner of the sump. This plate (sometimes called the "taco plate" for reasons lost to history) is held on by two bolts. If there's no wire coming out of it, you have no sender to give you an oil temp reading.

--DD
gollygwagen
QUOTE(luskesq @ Aug 19 2012, 10:17 PM) *

You did remove the round tip on the sparkplugs didn't you? If not you'll never get a good connection regardless of which ignition wires you use.


Yes I did, once I saw the old plugs. I've never seen plugs like that before. I was tempted to just get some generic wires that used the tips, seem less likely to pop off. But I'm getting the good wires instead.

Thanks Dave for all the above info, I'll check that taco plate, maybe it was just tossed in and isn't even hooked up!
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