I am starting to collect parts for a 2056 build. Here is what I am thinking as far as pieces to the puzzle:

Parts I have:
-Purchased a very nice case machined by HAM Inc with main bearings and upgraded case bolts
-2.0 crank
-2.0 rods
-nice flywheel
-fan with A/C pulley (yes I need A/C in south Mississippi)
-Weber 44 idf Spanish made
-have complete 2.0 heat exchanges and exhaust
-complete 1975 2.0 in car currently runs great complete fuel injection leaks oil everywhere!!! Will use what parts I can and sell the rest

What I need info on:
-can I use weber 44 if so who rebuilds them for this size motor?
-will carbs give better preformance than fuel injection? (With A/C)
-If I use weber 44 what cam kit from Jake?
-What heads Jake Raby's RS+ or LE 200 I do want new heads
-Will buy 96 KB pistons and AA cylinders
-stock heat exchangers and exhaust o.k.?

Machine shop:
-What rotating parts need to go?
-does case need to go?
-Piston and Cylinders also?

I know I am forgetting tons of stuff. Please remember I am a rookie and need guidance.
Thanks Jeff

Building this engine could be very interesting for you. You will learn a ton. In my opinion, the most difficult and most expensive part to acquire are the cylinder heads. Start with that. Find a good machine shop that you can trust. The crank, rods, pistons, flywheel, all have to be balanced as a whole. Pistons and cylinders are available from many sources as are camshafts. Stock HE are ok but not optimal The internet has a lot of information on rebuilding engines. Good Luck.

From what I have read cam and cylinder heads seem to be most important. My main reason for rebuilding is to fix oil leaks and increase power for A/C. This may seem silly but south Mississippi gets quite hot!! Will make car usable year round. My goal is get the most I can out of 2056 build.
Thanks for your help
Jeff

I would suggest FI over carbs, LE 200 or talk with HAM maybe the 180 heads and keep your compression 8-8.5 range. The Raby 9550 cam gets good reviews but I think Raby wants your engine specs before he recomends and sells you a cam kit. I would look for some SSI heat exchangers, they flow a little better. If you have old cylinder that don't have broken fins you can get them bored for the 96mm pistons, better quallity than AA.

All of your rotating parts need to be balanced, flywheel, crank, rods, fan & pulley dynamically balanced together (maybe the pressure plate). Pistons are statically balanced.

Jim

I'm running Weber IDF 40's with a Webcam 86B on my 2056. If you decide to go with carbs, you might find the 44's are too much for the engine.

As for FI, everyone has their own opinion. I moved up from a stock 2.0, it's an entirely different car now. True carbs have their issues with tuning, flat spots, etc, but my D-Jet was not issue free either and limits your build possibilities in respect to cams.

If you go carbs, steer away from a Bosch 009 dizzy and go for something like an SVDA.

Great info
Thanks Jeff

So far it sounds like:

-go with 40 idf Webers not 44's
-webcam 86B
-with the above combination what cylinder head configuration is best, RS+,LE 180, or LE 200? Or does it matter?
-use old cylinders machined to 96mm bore
-dizzy means distributor?
-distributor I was think Mallory. Which Mallory distributor do I want?
-what is the difference between Italian, Spanish, and new Webers?

Thanks Jeff

with Jim...
If it moves, it needs to be balanced. For the record, one of the best retired engine builders from 'back-in-the-day' recommends Jim if you ask him to rebuild an engine he built back then. Now if Jim would just get a 914 running out of the 8 or 10 he owns...

Jeff for your application the RS+ heads will be the way to go. They have the 2.0 914 plug angle and the intake port flow is now a whopping 189 cfm @ .420 lift. More than the stock 2.0 914 but with much smaller ports, so velocity is much higher. And that port flow is with bone stock CB intake manifolds with no port matching.

And the heads have a 78% ex/in flow ratio. They are very versatile heads and work well with 2056's and more heavily cammed 2270's.

So with the RS+ heads should probably ask Jake Raby advice on cam kit. Does he still do this if you purchase parts and have balancing done by him? Anyone know when TypeIV Store will re-open?
Thanks Jeff

The type 4 store is under reconstruction. There will be some major changes to it, including the head program. I'm putting together an outline of the changes to the head program that I'll post up here very soon. Probably right after the labor day weekend.

The only way now to get feedback from Jake regarding anything sold through the store is to post on his forum. He's very forthcoming there and will answer your questions.

I don't want to debate the good or bad about it, but he may just as well toss his phone as he is totally unavailable to speak to. I'm heading in that direction too as the demands on time from the phone are hard to meet. There are only so many hours in the day. We're both very happy to field questions on a public forum where the answers can help others and show up in searches.

Hi,

Or buy smaller vents for your 44s and keep the money in your pocket. I have never had success tuning webers in 2.0 or 2270 configuations. Dell's worked better for me. I've sold every set of webers that crossed my hands and bought dells.



I am on the bubble with the cylinders. I have ordered 96 mm jugs from europeanmotorworks.com/ and will see what they look like when I out together the 2056 motor.

I run the early 4754101 Mallory (grey/grey springs) without the vacum advance hooked up. I expect to add it as soon as I'm ready to take a drill to my drla 45's. You may want to research aircooled.net SVDA distributor.

Carlos

Carlos

-So I can change vents to 32(smallest I can Find) and 44 Webers should work?
-Anyone know difference in Spanish ,Italian, or new Webers?
-if I decide to use my current heads do I need to do anything special to them (1975 2.0 heads)
Thanks Jeff