Looks like I screwed up. While I had the trailing arms off, I removed the axles to check them out. Thought I would leave them off until I got the trailing arm back on. I am doing this by myself and didn't think I would be able to align the axle, shock bolt and front of the trailing arm all at once to get it on.
Put the trailing arm back on and now the axle won't fit without removing the heat exchangers. They don't leak, so I do not want to mess with them. Don't want to remove the trailing arm either. I may have to do one or the other unless someone with more experience can straighten me out on this.
Is it possible to loosen the trans supports and drop the trans/engine a couple of inches to allow one end of the axle room to go over the top of the trans and allow the other end into the trailing arm?
Thanks,
Tom

I'm having a hard time following what your trying to do. Is your car jacked up? Your stub axels are still installed? Post some pics of the area where your having interference problems.

It's a Pita but can be done . You don't have to remove the heat exchangers . Again it's not easy . Took me about an hour for each side with the stubaxle on . You only have to remove the starter to have more play . Start by inserting the outer first .

Tom, usually the passenger side will go on but the drivers side is a bitch. Separate the flange from the wheel side of the axle then slide the hub flange inside the trailing arm. This will give you that extra room to slide it in. Now for the cussing part. Get a small long drift or ice pick to line up the holes and start the CV bolts then tighten it up. Be sure your wife isn't hosting any parties when you do this as the language coming from the garage will not be nice.

Just so happens I just did this ..in reverse.
Removed the complete .5 shaft from installed Trailing arms w/eng. in
It is TIGHT especially on the Drvs side because of the starter but its possible.
It might be easier to simply remove the retaining nut from the top of the shock assembly let it droop down so you can install the stub side fully into the hub then lift back up to re-attach

If the axle is complete it is a tad tighter but will fit. It helps to raise the rear of the car as high as possible with stands, then lower the rear of the transmission a few inches with a jack. Place the inner CV joint up into the space over top the transmission and then slide the stub shaft into the opening of the trailing arm. It helps to grease the threads and the splines and you might have to wiggle it some but it will slide in. The threaded part where the nut goes should go fully through and then hold it with the washer and nut.

If you cover the inner CCV joint with a zip lock bag it will help keep things cleaner.

Attach the inner CV joint loose on both sides and then raise the rear of the transmission back into place.

You can do this without lowering the rear of the gear box but the extra room is nice!

Thanks guys, I will try lowering the trans a bit and sliding in the outer end first on both sides, then proceed.
John,
I tried every which way to get the shaft in without lowering the trans, but I still was lacking a couple ( or more) of inches of clearance.
Tomorrow I will try lowering the rear of the trans and see how that works.
Thanks,
Tom

I should have mentioned this earlier. Put a floor jack under your tranny and drop the rear mounts. Then you can sway the tranny to the side but I'm sure it stress's the front mounts a little. Have you already tried to disconnect the shock?