Hey guys I have a73 914 this isn't in too bad shape and I would like to keep it that way. There is a place here in Ft Worth that will dip the body in a non acid dip that will clean out rust, strip paint and is non crosive my question is how to open up the longs to coat the inside with por15? I can cut a hole and the weld it up but wondering if there is a better way. Also worried about the heater hose that runs through them.

Thanks
Brandon

Not sure what the dipping would do to the heater hose.

As far as por15 I've read good and bad about it, Eastwood makes a product called internal frame coating, comes with a small tube with a spray nozzle at one end, you can stick the tube in small holes and snake the tubing in then pull out as you spray to coat the inside, used it on my center tunnel, was easy to use, coated well, we'll see how long it lasts.

Jeff

I would avoid dipping a chassis. There is so many dead air spaces that will be hard to go clean out.

If the seams that have seam sealer are good and clean, then you are really stepping in it when you dip it, and making a lot more work.

My post from '05

What we do in my restoration shop is clean, treat/arrest the corrosion, repair any corrosion that involves very heavy pitting or perforation, treat with phosphoric acid wash, rinse, dry, and paint. We use a undercoating kit that can be purchased at JC Whitney, Eastwood, and other auto supply houses. We treat the entire car, that is all the dead air spaces, boxed support members, etc.

First remove the control cables, and shift mechanism, as well as the pedal cluster, and most of the interior. Mask off the wiring harness with plastic and masking tape. Clean out the tunnel with compressed air and a shop vac. Manually scrape whatever you can reach with wire brushes, stainless toothbrushes, etc. Next you need very hot water and cheap automatic dishwashing detergent (like cascade). You don't want to get this on finished surfaces, as the trisoduim phosphate can dull painted surfaces. Mix up hot water with the detergent, and spray in into the tunnel. With the undercoating kit you get spray wands and different nozzles to blast in the corners, etc. Again, use the shop vac to remove the water. Next rinse with clean warm water, and clean this up. Blow dry with compressed air and the undercoating wands and nozzles. Check out the cleaning job with a light and a inspection mirror, make sure everything is nice and clean. Let it dry for a few days. At this point a little flash rust isn't going to hurt anything. Now it gets more fun! You can use Ospho, Oxysolve, any corrosion treatment with phosphoric acid that leaves a phosphate coating. You mix up the acid as directed, and after you've donned your safety goggles, respirator, and rubber gloves, you spray the area with the acid mixture. Most of them require liberal dousing, and you want to keep it wet for several minutes, longer if you've got more serious corrosion. Next you rinse the acid off with water, and clean it up. Blow it dry. Let it sit for a few days. Last you can use the same undercoating kit to blast your favorite corrosion paint over the treated areas.

This is alot of work, and makes a big mess, but it's the best thing you can do to mitigate corrosion. It's also a good thing to do if you've welded on structural supports like the GT stiffening kit, Mayeur kit, etc. If you don't treat the backside of a panel that you've welded, it will rust.

A thread: http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...=87664&st=0

Update: in many places you can't get cheap automatic diswashing powder with TSP anymore, so a product like "Marine Clean" may be an option. There are some paint supply stores that do sell TSP.

drilling a big hole is a BAD idea

don't forget that the "cardboard" heat tubes are in the longitudinals

- so getting the eastwood stuff well distributed is a challenge

ther are numerous drip holes in the bottom you can insert the tube into, and you may find a pliugged access hole in the rear - if not you can drill one about !/2" in size at both front & rear & feed the spray tube in over the top of that heat tube

(fwiw - I do use it )

I drill 1/2" holes in strategically located spots to get good coverage. Several areas have holes in good spots from the factory.

Do a search, there's a old thread here with lots of pictures on how to prep a tub for dipping.
You need to open the longs and remove the heater tube. The dipping will melt them and they are NLA.

Also, i would advice against POR15. It does not work as advertised.

I like Eastwood's Corrolless, but I don't know if it's still available. It's a one stage epoxy.

Yeah, although I used it on my car, and had used it prior with better results, POR 15 is far too finicky for me. It should only be used on heavily pitted areas with lots of stuff for the POR to "bite" into. In which case, it would be better to just cut the metal out anyway. Its awful to use on any halfway decent metal. I've never seen so much fish-eyeing in my life. I'm going to try Eastwood next time.

Has anyone heard of zero/rust? I'm considering using it on my 6.

Multiple colors and one seems to be a close match to L80E - light ivory

http://www.amteco.com/products_zr.php

Then use a dobber and run it thru the longs

There's also foam in the targa and trunk lid.

Double post sorry
Im in Bedford too. PM me. There are a few teeners in the area. Bill

One of my friends restoring a 70 Firebird is using the zero rust. Excellent product from what I can tell. Spray can or mix and shoot it. The Eastwood Company & Wurth make a cavity wax. My VW has it on from the factory. Seems like a good way to go after your done with all your paintwork, etc. for inside the longs and hell hole/drainage areas. POR doesn't nuetralize rust. If you want to use it, make sure all the rust is gone before you apply it.

We have an outfit here in Cincinnati that does the non-acid dip rust removal process. Judging from the field arc lines on the stainless baskets of loose parts that they dip and derust, I'm thinking it's an electrical process and it totally removes the rust and the part can stay unprotected for at least 6 months without treatment. It's that amazing. Watching a rust-free model T come out of the tank is inspiring.

Per the foam, tell them where it is. My guys at American Metal Refinishing were able to remove (burn) the foam out of a rusty rear trunk, and convert all the rust to black clinkers that had to be banged out. They also treated between the metal walls on one front fender. When I demeled a hole in the rear trunk foam area, the rust was all gone, and nothing needed cleaning or treating. The parts sat unprotected for a year with no rust. I sprayed cavity wax between the reinforcement stringers and the trunk surface and painted the rest.

The process doesn't harm rubber, and the only part that may cause a problem is the heat tubes running through the longs. Lots of info on making stiffeners for chassis rotisseries, and then remove the outside of the longs to remove the cardboard tubes.

Think if it this way. Time is money. If removing the rust on and in trunk is $65 (my cost years ago), and does a perfect job, it would have been hours and hours for me to do it, and would have required special equipment like my MIG welder.

Hope this helps

Brandon I'm in Keller. Wes

I would be worried about that product just based on their website. The is very little information on the product or how it works. I don't think Rustoleum prevents rust either and there is plenty of info on that product. Caveat Emptor...