This car will not be driven on the street, it will be used on the race track.
During roll cage install my windshield was damaged, so any suggestions from the 914world community would be helplful.
Should I replace with oem type glass or polycarbonate.
If you have installed a polycarbonate windshied in your car what has been your experience? Would you do it again? How about UV and scratches?
What manufacturer or company did you purchase your windshield from?

Poly is easy and definitely the way to go. For the scratch and uv protection, there are many manufactures that make films and sprays to protect the poly material. Also, they are easy and cheap enough to replace every once and a while.

Thomas

What do the rules say? For all of the groups you think you might possibly want to run with?

--DD

Thanks for the replies.
There is nothing specific to the front windshield in the series rules that I will participate in.
Here is the only thing pertaining to glass in the rules
"Headlight units, door glass / mechanism, back glass and stock roll bar may be removed"
As far as I know everyone is keeping the windshield, I would like to keep mine installed regardless.
Safelite is checking on availabilty of the windshield.
AutoAtlanta has porsche brand, oem brand, and polycarbonate brand.
I am just trying to decide what will be the best over the long haul.
Also, ease of install, care and maintenance are important.
Here is a picture of my door, and I would like to figure out how to install some type of rail system and get standard type or polycarbonite door glass. That is for later on, the windshield is my main concern over the next few days.

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I notice that the rules do not say anything about replacing the windshield. To me, that says OEM-type materials only. Polycarbonate plastic would be lighter, and thus a performance advantage. If I were a d**k and I were running against you, I'd think about filing a protest over that. (Sure, everyone you run with now may be cool, but what about the jerk who starts running with the club next event?)

Plastic will require more maintenance. It scratches relatively easily, and thus requires more frequent replacement than glass. There are things you can do to mitigate the problem (coatings, tear-offs) but they don't completely fix it.

Sounds like actual OEM type automotive glass is the best solution in this case.

Or just Ginther it, as Scotti suggested.

--DD

Buy your Lexan windshield from Shields.
You'll need to attach it with clips and/or fasteners, and you should install metal strips behind it to prevent it from collapsing on impact (with a tire, exhaust or suspension component, etc.)

Thanks for the input.

O.K. a polycarbonate windshield is allowed as long as
"Minimum weight post race with driver will be 2050lbs. Any car not making minimum weight is subject to being disqualified by the race committee."
After all the input, I have decided to go with a polycarbonate type race winshield.
Racer Chris, now post up those pictures, so I can see how its DONE!

I followed SCCA rules for my Lexan windshield installation.
They require clips to secure the windshield from the outside and strips inside to prevent it from collapsing.
They also require 6mm or thicker material, preshaped to fit the vehicle.
I found that the Lexan didn't really have the same curvature as a glass windshield so I added 3 screws at each end to hold it down.

The clips are made from 1" wide x 1/8" thick 6063 aluminum.
The inside strips are 3/4" x 1/8".
A total of 7 clips (3 top, 4 bottom) hold the windshield down, with three 1/8" aluminum rivets each.
I skewed the safety strips toward the passenger side to improve my field of vision, while still exceeding the minimum spacing stated in the rules.

I used dense foam self adhesive weatherstripping all around the frame, with a thickness which sets the windshield flush with the exterior.
The aluminum strips are covered with black tape to make them less obvious.
The clips have foam tape on the side facing the windshield to prevent chafing.

The screws are 1/4"-20 buttonhead, with thin nylock nuts, only because I had a ton of them laying around.
The screw holes in the lexan are oversized so no stress cracks will be created from the windshield expanding and contracting.
I remember that it was a real challenge to tighten the nuts because of the rollcage.
They're only tightened enough to hold the windshield against the weatherstripping, not to clamp it tightly.

The black banner is limo tint applied to the inside of the windshield before installation.
The vinyl lettering is applied on the outside.
The "smudge" above the letter T is a Shields logo branded into the polycarbonate.

It took a lot of time to complete the installation, but its held up for many, many races, and I'm real happy with the result.
The Lexan is still in very good condition.
The Shields pre-cut to size windshield was a very good fit and a lot easier than starting with an oversize piece and trimming it.

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Thanks Racer Chris for the write up and pictures.

Any more feedback, I'll be ordering a polycarbonate windshield tomorrow with anti-scratch and anti-fog coatings. I have talked with a machine shop and they will be making 4 pieces of aluminum moulding to fit the windshield and then weld them together for a one piece frame. I sure hope it turns out good, every time a new project is started it seems like something goes wrong. I guess thats the fun of it all, though.

That sounds like overkill to me, but if it turns out as you like, it'll be a good thing.

Its ordered, SHIELDS polycabonate 1/4", stock trim, supercoat both sides.
NO anti-fog.

how much$?

They have not billed me yet, but my windshield should ship by nex Friday.
Estimate of mine, polycarbonate with supercoat both sides and shipping around $510.

Why did I go with polycarbonate?

just a list, no particular order
1. SAFETY...since the car is track only.
2. Next, I was talking with one of the local track guys and his windshield just got CRACKED. Not only does he have to replace the windshield, but also the required banner for the series goes across the top of the windshield.
3. I could not find a windshield locally, Safelite could not even get a windshield.
4. Closest used one was California or Colorado, with a crate shipping was at least $200 plus the cost of the windshield.
5. If I order a new oem type glass windshield shipping minimum was quoted as $195, and my estimate was about $240 for shipping and $350 for oem type glass windshield.
6. Feedback from other forum members.

I am going to try and avoid drilling holes in the winshield. I will post some pictures regardless of how it turns out. Most of my race car project is completed as far as mechanicals and safety goes. It still looks like a turd, but has PMB Performance restored stock brake calipers, Tangerine Racing roll cage, Elephant Racing rubber oem type bushings and re-valved non-adjustable bilsteins a.k.a. Vons level 3, Glenn Sanders torsion bars, Mayo performance motor rebuild, Jones Autowerks side shift rebuild/conversion, JWEST Eng shifter with reverse lockout, Braille ML20C Micro-Lite Lithium battery, to name a few.

Thats why I just gotta do something to this windshield.

I look at a lot of other projects people do and they seem to have a better grasp of the concept than myself. But, this has been fun, frustrating, and expensive.
I would like to think I've learned some things and will know how to better approach my next project, but I'm not sure!
Regardless this ones a keeper, and at some point the car will get blasted and painted, assuming I don't tear it up.
Thanks Chris for your follow up and advice, and I will update this thread with more windshield information.

Update, the windshield is installed.
Thanks for the information Racer Chris.

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I purchased the SHIELDS polycarbonate windshield.
Cost with shipping was just under 500 dollars.
I am pleased with the product, pricing, and customer service provided by SHIELDS.
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Resurrecting an old thread.
Anyone have an idea on the weight saving here?

15lb +/-

Thanks Chris.