The motor is a GC type IV case with early NOS 2.0 GA heads and Weber 40 IDF carbs. The PO installed a Web-Cam hydraulic + carb grind with hydraulic lifters.

I doubt that the correct timing for it is the stock timing given it is carbs instead of fuel injection. Right now I've just been turning it until it appears to be running best and taking it for a drive, any idea what the best timing might be?

Andy

Pelican parts- tech articles- timing with carbs
And I'm sure someone else will help

Thanks I forgot to check there. Should there be any difference with running a non vacuum advance distributor? I have a Bosch 009 I believe, can't remember but it definitely isn't a vacuum advance.

Mine is a 2.0 w/Dellortos. Followed the article exactly and it worked good. Not being a mechanic I'm not going to experiment.

ANY time you use a centrifugal only advance distributor, the timing must, MUST, MUST be set at maximum advance. All manuals assume that you have the distributor the car came with from the factory. Since virtually all cars come originally equipped with a vacuum operated distributor, the timing procedure generally tells you to remove adn cap vacuum lines and set the timing to a timing mark generally between 5 ATDC to 10 BTDC with the car idling. Since you do NOT have vacuum operation (which is a load sensor), this means ONLY the engine speed gives you advance so you must ensure that your timing does NOT go higher than a pre-determined limit to ensure you don't promote knocking and pinging and over heat your motor.

You will need to use your TDC mark on the fan and a timing light that is equipped with an advance feature in order to set your timing correctly. Most folks will tell you to set your MAXIMUM timing at around 28 degrees BTDC. So in order to do that, you will need to first set your timing light for 28 degrees of advance. What this will do is flash the strobe 28 degrees before the actual spark event so that when the distributor advances the timing you can actually use the TDC mark (which may be your only point of reference) set the timing at the notch in the fan shroud.

Now you start the motor and rev the motor up to around 3000 RPMs. You will be able to see the timing begin to advance around 1000 RPMs and then it will stop advancing between 2500-3000 RPMs.

Now, with the engine reved, twist the distributor until the TDC mark lines up with the notch. With that distributor, your maximum advance it is the most important thing. Unless you have the ability to tweek the counter weight stops or change the counter weight springs, the idle timing will land where ever it lands; you don't have much control over that.

The above is a good golden rule - 28 degrees BTDC, but do consider that the lower your CR and the fatter you are jetted the more timing you need to run to get your efficiency back. If you have a CHT and good ears I'd consider trying both 30 and 32 BTDC.

-Aaron

I thought there was a -27* BTDC timing mark on the fan, at least per the Pelican Parts technical article.

For anything but that you need to use the "0" mark and an adjustable timing light.

Some do; some don't. I've seen more 2.0L motors that have both the mark @ TDC and -27. Many have an "0" stamped @ TDC, some have just another red line @ TDC. I have seen some that are not marked at all @ TDC. . . VW didn't do us any favors when they marked these pulleys. . .

Just to clarify and add to what yeahmag said about the 28 BTDC rule. That is always just a starting point. EVERY motor is different, so every motor should be treated as an individual. I'm not sayin' we should give trophies to all motors just for participating, but every motor reacts slightly differently due to tune, altitude, wear, exhaust, etc, etc. so when it comes to timing, the rules begin to blur a bit.