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GulleyGulley
I'm kicking around the idea of upgrading my 914-6 that currently has a stock 2.0 engine in it. It a 914 conversion that has an original six in it with Webers. I like the idea of more hp & the motronic fuel injection. What am I getting myself into if I take on this project over the winter? What parts will I need to buy or replace. Tranny is a 901 with LSD.

- Engine with wiring harness
- DME
- Flywheel/clutch?
- Engine mount?
- ???

Anyone document their 3.2 install
Tom_T
If you do the swap & since yours is a 6-conversion, & if the current engine is indeed an original 914-6 2.0, then make sure to list it here so it has a chance of being reunited with it's original -6 body & owner.

Good Luck! beerchug.gif
Tom
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mepstein
QUOTE(GulleyGulley @ Sep 26 2012, 04:00 PM) *

I'm kicking around the idea of upgrading my 914-6 that currently has a stock 2.0 engine in it. It a 914 conversion that has an original six in it with Webers. I like the idea of more hp & the motronic fuel injection. What am I getting myself into if I take on this project over the winter? What parts will I need to buy or replace. Tranny is a 901 with LSD.

- Engine with wiring harness
- DME
- Flywheel/clutch?
- Engine mount?
- ???

Anyone document their 3.2 install


Proper gauges for the 3.2,
PMS harness conversion wiring ($200)
Engine mount will fit depending on brand
Engine sheet metal needs minor mods
Possible different heat exchangers/headers
Throttle cable
Possible different axles and CV's
O2 sensor, sensor on trans from engine, ect.
Probably extra oil cooling.
Possibly regearing trans
Possibly bigger brakes.

Pretty easy switch since you already have a 6.
Steve
I made my own wiring harness and just bought the Kep stage 2 clutch with there flywheel adapter ring. Regarding the trans, I had to notch the trans for the dme sensor. I am also running keps throw out bearing. Regarding the tin, I only had to modify the right rear for the sensor cabling.
I also have an external front cooler with a mocal thermostat.
GulleyGulley
Thanks. I have one other project car that I'm hoping to get out for paint later this fall, so that will open up some space in the garage to tackle the engine upgrade. I'll definitely offer my 2.0 here first. According to the PO, the engine came from a real sixer that was either wrecked or rusted, so I doubt the original is still around. Either way, its a nice engine, no problems or stories, just not enough power to keep up with the newer Minis, Miatas & Hondas at the autocross.
MoveQik
Click on the link in my signature. You'll never look back if you go with the 3.2 biggrin.gif
VaccaRabite
Bigger brakes. Bigger wheels. Flares. Chassis stiffening.
Make sure your car can stop as fast as it can go.
Zach
mepstein
Remember guys, the need for additional braking is a function of additional speed or weight or both, not horsepower. A 3.2 engine isn't a whole lot heavier than a 2.0 six.
erwan914
my car 3.2l gearbox 915 fuel injection megasquirt

IPB Image
GulleyGulley
Rear trailing arms, suspension, etc is from a sixer. So I shoudn't need anymore bracing back there. Front suspension & brakes are from a SC. Should be good up there as well. Runnng 205's all around with a slight roll in the rear quarters. I'll try to post some pictures this weekend.
MoveQik
QUOTE(Vacca Rabite @ Sep 27 2012, 02:56 AM) *

Flares. Chassis stiffening.

Zach


I have neither and all is well. confused24.gif I don't think it is accurate to say that if you have a 3.2 that have to flare your car...
Series9
QUOTE(MoveQik @ Sep 27 2012, 11:58 AM) *

QUOTE(Vacca Rabite @ Sep 27 2012, 02:56 AM) *

Flares. Chassis stiffening.

Zach


I have neither and all is well. confused24.gif I don't think it is accurate to say that if you have a 3.2 that have to flare your car...



Yeah, but......you frequently are operating at altitudes that cost you 20% or more of your HP.

If you lived at sea level, I'd be more serious about getting some reinforcements in your chassis.
pcar916
Just a few more thoughts. 3.2's and 3.6's transform the car when they're well executed.

1. Make sure the transaxle is in prime shape. Bearings, spiders/sliders and synchros should be inspected if they haven't been already.

2. If you push the car hard... and with the higher torque/hp you will, you'll probably want some kind of reinforcement for "insurance". Especially track-time and/or AX with race rubber. Do it before "some number" of cracks start forming and your bodywork bill starts climbing. You won't know it for a long time if it's slow to come on.

3. The flywheel for your existing clutch can be bought that will accommodate the parts needed for your DME pickup and the transaxle will have to be notched to accept it.

4. You don't have to flare the car but may want to eventually just to get more tire under the car... like the factory did. Of course they didn't have our tire compounds either.

Good luck
larryM
I am doing this right now - it is not trivial - a jillion little issues will come up with the wiring and fuel lines

I'm keeping a running diary on this, so will be happy to discuss

I am using a Patrick harness, but finding it necessary to verify & trace every wire - front to back since my car is a oem germany gt and it had wiring mods for the dual ignition and dual fuel pumps, etc - oem wiring "multi-pin plugs" are sometimes on eBay - avg $50 each - i have one extra - you can go junkyard scavenging for a 4cyl harness with all the right colors and soldered pins & go from there

I got a KEP fw/clutch package from GPR a long time ago when Dave was doing conversions - posted that info long ago - search for that topic

add a new tilton hi-torque starter to the list

add a new carrera fuel pump - see my prior post & the answers there

add a MAF adaptor & air filter kit - try Patrick and Getty Designs for that -

the cheap eBay MAF adaptor does not fit

add new steel fuel lines - must have a return (like 4cyl), whereas my GT did not

need a sixer oil cooler - use your existing one - or have Otto's modify your 3.2 cooler - $300-$800 - depending on choices you make

need a front oil cooler, 911 diverter thermostat, & body lines as well - $$$$$$$

gotta fab fuel line connectors and match the oil hard line to the sixer setup - more time & $$

need all new shorter exh manifold/header studs - you will be lucky if you don't bust off some manifold studs on the 3.2 - so add a Pelican stud repair kit - $$$

and the gages - oil psi & temp senders, locations, different bar specs 5 vs 10, - your tach may work, but if not send to PAS for a "universal" conversion - about $200

also - rebuild the 3.2 alternator - they are notoriously short-lived - you don't want to be changing the alternator 2 weeks after you get the thing running - $150 at my local source

etc etc etc

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