Hi all, hope everyone had a good summer. Mine ended very quietly, like when you turn the key and nothing. I've gone thru this before, and know the drill. Bad ign. switch, or starter. New Bosch starter 4/12, new ignition switch 3/12. Drove most of the summer without trouble, and have heat shield on starter. Took off the starter, and had the local FLAPS check it out.....good. Ordered two (2) ign. switch from AA. Installed one, nothing. Knowing that these are cheap Chinese parts, installed the second....same thing. All I get is red (alt) light, and pump turning. Now my blower fan won't work, and I know both the fan, and pump share the same relay and fuse at the relay is good! Ground strap at trans good! Checked past posts on this problem without any sucess. What now, am I having a gray moment ??

Hey, don't be taking my - I own

What's your battery voltage? Do you have a remote starter switch, or, can you apply +12V to the starter solenoid terminal (yellow wire)?

The last time my car wouldn't even turn over it turned out to be a bad connection at the battery. Where the multiple battery cables came together into the connectors were corroded and needed to be cleaned up.

What year is your car? It might be the seat belt interlock relay

Also, try isolating the problem. At the relay board, pull the bigger connector off and check pin 1 for 12 vdc while in the start position.

What Tim said. Relay is useless and sometimes problematical. Pull the passenger seat, cut and splice the two thick yellow wires together, and twist the key. Couldn't hurt, and it eliminates some resistance in the feeble starter circuit.

Mine does this randomly, I found if I loosen the battery terminal and wiggle it then tighten it again, fires right up. Works every time.....so far

My relay board just quit on me last year. A bad connection somewhere in the board itself. Luckily I had another sitting on the shelf. I still need to strip off the coating on the bottom and attempt to repair the original.

brp986s: Battery voltage 12.67, question: for a button switch do you bleave the yellow wire on the solenoid & use another tab on the solenoid, or apply +12 on yellow wire?

mburkhart: cleaned all positive wires and both posts

tim nd: year is '76, seat belt interlock relasy wired up (heavy yellow wires). Also nothing on pin 1 w/key on, but +12.67 on pin 12 & 14 , key off. What feeds voltage to pin 1, and where did it go?

haudiosolutions: everything is tight & clean on the battery posts. Tho I was thinking of putting an in line fuse on each of four red wires.

hcdmueller: back of relay board good. Did find loose wire on 3 wire plug next to regulator(recrimpted). And red wire 16ga. I think, not seating all the way down on regulator plug....no difference when key switched.

Thanks fellow club members for all your input. Will go back at it, but at 66, don't know how much longer I can keep chasing problems on these cars. I might be ready for a golf cart

So 0 volts on pin 1 on the relay board when in the start position. I would turn my attention to under your passenger seat, and locate the 2 big yellow wires. Disconnect them, and test for 12vdc when you turn the ign key to the start position. One of the wires should show 12vdc. If you get voltage on one of the yellow wires, go ahead and tie them together, and recheck pin 1 on your relay board for 12vdc on the start position

Oh, BS. 66 ain't too old to work on 914s. I'm 64 and still working on them weekly.

I should also clarify, when checking pin 1 on the 14 pin connector, you should be checking pin 1 on the connector, not the relay board