Full Version: Injector connnector
On the Subaru WRX, 2004, I'm trying to get the connector removed so that I can put a noid light on it and I currently have the tang that is attached to the connector loose, but can't seem to pull the connector off. Is there something else that I need to do to get it to come off?
Picture?
I'm not too familiar with the wrx motors but iirc the older motors had a metal retainer holding the connectors...
I'm not too familiar with the wrx motors but iirc the older motors had a metal retainer holding the connectors...
This one is one I got off the Subie club, as mine is a bit blurry and can't get in position for a good picture.
http://media.photobucket.com/image/recent/jlang_pics/010.jpg
Click to view attachment
http://media.photobucket.com/image/recent/jlang_pics/010.jpg
Click to view attachment
On the back side of the connector is a V shaped plastic piece that pops over a tang, or flat metal piece. I got that part out of the V shaped piece and I thought that was the end of the story, but can't get it to pull off.
The back side looks to have a locking clip to be removed. The front shown here looks like you need to press the top (squeeze) to get it off. May just need a little wiggle...
After getting the connector removed from the tang, on the side of the connector needed to be pushed in as well to pull it off.
It did act up at the right time and was able to place the noid light in there and crank it over, and so I have a pulse getting to the injector.
I did spend the afternoon cleaning up the wires to the starter and another part under where, which I am not sure what it is, but the one wire was not real tight and had some corrosion on it.
Also, one of the lines to the radiator, I'm guessing is a sensor in the line, as it has a T in there with a couple of wires, and the ground wire needed a good cleaning.
1. The temperature did not go above 180 tops, and the needle width under that, which is where it normally has run.
2. The needle did not quiver as before.
3. The engine cracks right off now, and turns over way faster.
4. Before, when I turned on the heater, lights, the volts would go down to about 11, but now I can turn them on, plus radio, fog lights, signal lights and does not go under 12, which seems to be more normal.
5. After getting back and warmed up yet, I shut it off and it restarted right off the bat.
The only thing I noticed is that if I hit a lump in the road and it jolts the car, it seems to make it cut out a bit. I'm thinking maybe I still have a loose connection somewhere that is associated with the running of the engine??
Click to view attachment
Click to view attachment
It did act up at the right time and was able to place the noid light in there and crank it over, and so I have a pulse getting to the injector.
I did spend the afternoon cleaning up the wires to the starter and another part under where, which I am not sure what it is, but the one wire was not real tight and had some corrosion on it.
Also, one of the lines to the radiator, I'm guessing is a sensor in the line, as it has a T in there with a couple of wires, and the ground wire needed a good cleaning.
1. The temperature did not go above 180 tops, and the needle width under that, which is where it normally has run.
2. The needle did not quiver as before.
3. The engine cracks right off now, and turns over way faster.
4. Before, when I turned on the heater, lights, the volts would go down to about 11, but now I can turn them on, plus radio, fog lights, signal lights and does not go under 12, which seems to be more normal.
5. After getting back and warmed up yet, I shut it off and it restarted right off the bat.
The only thing I noticed is that if I hit a lump in the road and it jolts the car, it seems to make it cut out a bit. I'm thinking maybe I still have a loose connection somewhere that is associated with the running of the engine??
Click to view attachment
Click to view attachment
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