Chalk this up to ignorance. When I bought Whitey I rebuilt the front end sans the control arm bushings. Why? They looked good. But I began to see posts saying that appearance wasn't necessarily indicative of their actual condition so I thought I would change them. I don't have a bench press nor did this "tree hugger" feel good about burning the rubber out with a torch. I used this POS HF puller (< $10) with good results.

Click to view attachment

This pic shows the plug that I used which the puller was positioned against as the arm is hollow

Click to view attachment

One other tip. I found that the water temp (180-200F) would drop off before I knew it so I insulated the jar w/ some hot pad holders and rubber band. Huge difference.

Click to view attachment

If your control arm looks like this you will need to polish it w/ sand cloth. Otherwise your bushing will drag and fold over. Installation was the reverse using a 3 lb. hand sledge and a 4x6 wooden block.

Click to view attachment

Looks like that worked.

The easiest method I've found is a torch. NOT to burn them out but just when you see a whisp of smoke, the outer mount just spins right off. MAPP torch and a large screwdriver. "Might" even be tree hugger approved.

I do it just like Eric.

Just came back from my first ride since replacing these. I was disappointed to see how nice the OEM bushings looked after removing them. Well, looks can be deceiving. What a BF'n difference. And I'll try your method on the black car, Eric. Thanks

You should have called me Kent!!!!

i'm confused?

after removing them - are you saying they looked so good that you would not have removed them had you known in advance of removing them what they would have looked like once removed?

but you also wrote, what a difference. so i am guessing that the new bushing are an improvement over the old ones that turned out to look good?

did you replace old rubber bushings with new rubber bushings?

i see eric sells only rubber replacements for front and poly replacements for rear.
http://www.pmbperformance.com/page/page/1925565.htm

i wonder why poly is not available for the front???

thanks
jim

--

Yes, a big improvement. Old ones looked good but evidently not so good. I went with rubber because I took Erc's advice, the 80-20 rule, $40 and hadn't heard any complaints about using them. I have heard of some builders install woes with other style bushings.

I burnt mine out with a torch. Got them out OK and in addition, I got to piss off my neighbors.

And miss the drama, flame and smoke? The puller's good, but lacks the thrill of potential injury.

Check out this elephant racing video for the torch / screwdriver method. It's on a 911 a-arm but the process should be identical.

Note that Chuck removes the a-arm from the car to do this, I don't think there's any way to replace the bushings without first removing the A arm / control arm.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=85-Enx4bKUE

great video - excellent tools

looks to me like they powder coated every inch of that a arm ???

this thread is going to make front rubber $40 bushings the latest craze for sure

jim

With that said......I was wondering about the claim from Elelphan that the "low dollar"

replacements were not worth it due to the fitment and materials.

Has anyone done these .......namely URO and seen rapid degredation?

My understanding is that the "low dollar replacement" comment was aimed at polygraphite, not the new rubber bushings..

No, Elephant slams the URO compound pretty hard in their video. I've wondered the same. I've asked and asked and asked but I've yet to have anyone come back and complain about the URO compound. I sell both and I love all of the elephant stuff but I've yet to hear anything bad about the URO bushings.

I can get the performance poly for the front but, I haven't had a big call for it. I would like to find a more affordable rubber solution for the rear frankly. That said, I love the elephant rubber in the rear. It installs easily and is very good quality. I do understand that it doesn't fit into everyone's budget though.

I like fire...he he...fire...he...fire!

Thanks Erc....

I had seen the video before but this time I noticed that it indicates '68~'89 at the beginning.

My 911s and 912s are early ... do pre-'68 fronts bushings have a different diameter or length?

I purchased four sets of URO rubber bushings, enough to do two 914s and two 911s. Supposedly they all take the same bushings ...

I'll find out for sure when I pull the old ones off



Does anybody local (in So Cal) have the stop tool and pilot tool I can borrow?

so $525 to do an entire car in elephant rubber - should be good for 20-40 years

http://www.elephantracing.com/suspension/r...berbushings.htm

not often mentioned is
http://www.rebelracingproducts.com/Suspension/Steering.html

"65-67 911 and 912 - Specially designed for early cars. This kit includes the metal-encased press-fit bushings unique to the rear of the early control arms. A complete set of 4 bushings that provides the same type high quality rubber replacement bushings as our proven kits for the later cars."

Click to view attachment


I hope I can press the rear arm bushings into the original metal 'sleeves'

Check out this video from Chuck comparing his bushings to URO ones (he doesn't state that the comparison ones are made by URO -- but I'm unaware of any other manufacturer)

Chuck makes the good stuff.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X03h2gE4Rao

don't forget sway bar bushings, ball joints, shocks....

$$$$$$ WHEEEEEEEEeeeeeeee!!!!!!!.......