Does the engine need to come out to put new seals in the oil cooler? I thought I heard somewhere it can be done without removing the engine. If not, the engine in Joes red one will be coming out.

i stuck my hand up to see if it would fit holding a wrench. pulled the engine. then a minor case of dwd. all that stuff that you might as well do....

kevin

Well, the engine is a 2.6 liter I built a year or so ago and it couldnt have but 600 miles on it. The problems started with an external oil cooler addition. Then he took the car to a few different mechanics to have other stuff done and the last time he got it home it was pouring out oil from what the mechanic said was the front seal. He dropped the front of the engine down today and the front seal was perfect, I came over and helped him get it back in there and fired it up and got underneath it to see where it was coming from. It flows very heavy from the oil cooler. It's like there is no seal in there at all.

It can be done, but it's a PIA. Pelican has an article on it. If you have large hands, I would say no you can't. After taking the 3 nuts off, you can slide the cooler out about an inch to put the new seals in.

Well, I am going to let him decide if that is what he wants to do. I think we are both thinking it would be best to just drop the motor and do it right. It just sucks that a paid Porsche mechanic told him it was the front seal.

he has it torn down enough to see the front main seal? even the guy that wrote the tech article gave you the impression he would do it differently if he had to do it again. the oil dripping on you face with both hands stuck up in there would make for a long afternoon. piece of cake to change the alt belt. was there a big puddle on top of the oil filter housing?

kevin

It flowed like there was no oil filter on the car. At first glance it looked the filter was leaking from the top. When I got up underneath it, you could see it running from the oil cooler seals. And I do mean flowing. In just the 45 seconds he had it running, it poured out about a quart.

You can replace the oil cooler with the engine in the car. I know, I have done it. The seals are a breeze. Use a 10mm wrench to remove the 2 nuts that you can see when looking up at the cooler. Then take a 1/4 drive ratchet with a 10mm socket to remove the third Slide the cooler to the front of the car, and the seals will probably fall out. If they don't, then just knock them off with a screwdriver.

To reinstall, just put the seals on the end of a big flat blade screwdriver with some grease, and use some more grease to stick the seal to the cooler mount. After both seals are in place, slide the cooler back in place and reinstall the nuts.


You can replace the front seal with the engine in the car too...

Thanks Clay, I will pass this on to Joe or just refer him to this thread if he hasnt seen it already. He will be happy he doesnt have to pull the motor out again. Thanks to eveyone for the advice. It is always appreciated.

Having just had my engine out for a rebuild it seams imposible to remove the oil cooler without removing the studs. They are about 4 inches long and the cooler will need clearance. see the attached photo...the studs are on the left side above the flilter housing.

But we dont need to remove the cooler, just pull it out enough to get the seals out and then new ones in. Maybe an inch.

I take that comment back...it will work as long as you slide the cooler back about an inch. Be certain to remove the two bolts holding the bracket to the side of the fan housing or it won't move.

If you want to remove the oil cooler.. just follow the same procedure. But after backing the cooler up against the fan housing, use a pair of vice grips to unscrew the studs. The cooler will come out the bottom after the studs are out.

Oh thats clever, I dont think that will be required. We just want to stop the oil flow out of the engine.

Learned that the hard way.. I had to replace a brand new cooler on Betty's car shortly after engine rebuild. It was brand new and leaked right out of the box.

Thanks for all the replies. I'll give Clay's technique a try.

At least i bought a full set of seals just in case

I knew he would find this thread. He stays up late and checks out the latest here.

Guess it would probally be a good idea to have a new cooler pressure tested before install after ready your post Clay. Didn't realize you can get the cooler out with the motor still in. Cool deal.

I did a cooler in a bus... once, a real PITA.

You my be able to drop the front of the engine enough to get the fan, etc. off.
Of course you would have to get the linkage, cables, etc. out of the way.

Pressure testing is a good idea as I've seen coolers that are cracked or warpped from being over torqued. The cooler, base and seals should be clean, no oil, grease or sealant. I sometimes put a dab of silicone, on the very top edge of the seal, to hold them till the cooler goes on.

Some times you just have to trust your gut and try the simple things first. This is a life lesson that has repeatedly been into me.

When Scott came over yesterday after I removed the fan and looking at the 'dry as a bone' front seal i was a bit pissed. i was bitching about how i thougt the leak was coming from the sandwich plate blow the oil cooler, but, on the advice of a mechanic that looked over the car. I was replacing the front seal.

So, we started it up and oil is dumping from the cooler. Scott is thinking it's the seals. I was inclined to agree.

But, a funny thing happned at about 3:30am. I woke up and thought "did you check to see if the cooler is on tight?" After all, it is a new engine with all new seals.

So, this morning after my two cups of PEETS i went back under the beast with my Fat A** and a 10mm gear wrench

Getting my big sausage fingers in there was tough and the first nut wasnt on tight. Neither was the other one. So, i tightened them up a bit. Put a filter on & put oil in it.

Started up and ran it for about 10 minutes and NO LEAKS!!

So, my life's lesson is to trust my gut in the future and try the simple things first.

Well, that makes sense, I put that engine together with all new seals so I knew they would be in there. I am just wondering how they got so loose. Check and verify that the band around the other side of the cooler is bolted to the fan shroud also. That is to stablize it so it doesnt rattle loose. See you at 5 Joe. And I like mine medium rare