Rusty
Oct 31 2004, 03:30 PM
Rich suggested that to ensure you have the correct "feel", that you use a micrometer to set a gap, then run the feeler gauge through it. I grabbed my new digital (mechanical) micrometer and tried that.. and felt a moderate amount of drag on the feeler gauge.
Then, after having oil dripped on me while taking off the valve covers... I had a thought.
I dipped the feeler gauge in a bit of oil and wiped off the excess, leaving only a film. Then, I tried to slide it into the micrometer. Wow, that's tight! Maybe I've been setting valves too loose.
Oh, and I spent a long time cataloging all the potential "while I'm under there" stuff. I found a bit of rust to squash this winter, and more oil leaks than I'd care to think about.
-Rusty
TheCabinetmaker
Oct 31 2004, 03:40 PM
Rusty, I've neer done a six, but a feeler gauge is a feeler gauge, so here goes. When I started adjusting my own valves, they would still clatter. I was indeed setting them too loose. If you have .004 gap, a .004 feeler should be very tight, and a .005 should not fit period. If it does, it's too loose.
Sammy
Oct 31 2004, 05:39 PM
I agree, I like to set them at a tight four, or very loose three. If you set them at a loose 4 they might clatter a little tiny bit.
I personally like using a dial indicator because the feeler gauge I have really doesn't work that well, kind of a PITA.
With the indicator I just stick it on there and measure, if it's still good I move onto the next one. saves time. If they are all good I can do it in 20 minutes.
With the feeler guage I have to loosen every one up to get the feeler gauge in and then set them.
I don't know if a dial indicator would fit in a 914/6 tho.
Bruce Allert
Oct 31 2004, 06:29 PM
OK, so... how do you know if it's too tight or too loose? I've been getting a wee bit of clatter everytime. I'm always afraid to set them too tight. Is there a way to explaine the "good feel" of the sliding of the gauge between?
Also, your mentioning of the .004 & .003 adjustments... is this for the 6 & not 2.0 or 1.7?
...b
Bleyseng
Oct 31 2004, 06:33 PM
.006 is for a 2.0l FOUR banger although the exhaust valves if stock sodium filled are .008. I run mine at .005 for AXing.
Geoff
Bruce Allert
Oct 31 2004, 06:37 PM
Ya, that's what I've been setting them at.
Which ones are you setting at .005? Int. or Ex?
....b
TheCabinetmaker
Oct 31 2004, 06:48 PM
Bruce, the "feel" is hard to explain. Tighten the adjuster so you can't pull the gauge out. Back it off till it just comes out with a little force. It should "feel" hard to get the gauge in and out. I doubt that we could move the spring with a .005 feller gauge. If the next bigger gauge won't go in, then you are there. If it does, then you are loose.
I set mine at a tight .005 (2.0/4). I've found that .006 works fine for a 1.7
Be faithful with the mileage, as they have a tendency to tighten after time, not loosen. I use a liberal amount of wheel bearing grease on both sides of the cover gasket. helps to seal and makes it slide right off the next time. I can even reuse them once with no problem, but always keep a few extra sets on hand just in case.
Bruce Allert
Oct 31 2004, 07:42 PM
QUOTE(vsg914 @ Oct 31 2004, 05:48 PM)
I set mine at a tight .005 (2.0/4). I've found that .006 works fine for a 1.7
I use a liberal amount of wheel bearing grease on both sides of the cover gasket. helps to seal and makes it slide right off the next time.
Curt, are you setting both intake & exhaust at .005 on the 2.0 or just the intake?
.....b
TheCabinetmaker
Oct 31 2004, 07:45 PM
Both.
tod914
Oct 31 2004, 09:45 PM
QUOTE
...it should feel like pulling a piece of paper from inside a closed book
We talking War and Peace or Green Eggs and Ham?
J P Stein
Oct 31 2004, 11:54 PM
It's .004, +/-.001 so don't get all anal about it. <_<
I do the .004 goes, .005 don't.....close enuff......but I've been
setting valve lash for more years than I kin remember. Just make sure the jamb nut is tight and check again after it's tightened.
IronHillRestorations
Nov 1 2004, 08:32 AM
Pat Williams in Memphis (a excellent 911 engine builder) set me straight on valve clearance. I made the comment that "a little loose is probably better than a little tight". If the valves are a little loose then you aren't getting total lift. Yes there is a "range" but dead on the nuts is always preferred. I get the correct feeler gauge to drag (like Martin says) and make sure the next size up won't fit. So it may take a little longer, but 6K miles doesn't come around too often.
DonTraver
Nov 1 2004, 10:14 AM
A dial indicator will work on a 6. The indicator holder is the key. I modified this one to work. Works great on my 914-6 2.0L and my 3.6 L RS America. This picture is the 3.6 L last weekend. Good luck.
Bruce Allert
Nov 1 2004, 07:26 PM
QUOTE(J P Stein @ Oct 31 2004, 10:54 PM)
Just make sure the jamb nut is tight and check again after it's tightened.
and that brings up another question
How tight is tight? do ya torque it or just a WAG?
I've been using a 6" ratchet with a socket to do the final crank down... not too hard but enough to what I think it won't come loose.
......b
TheCabinetmaker
Nov 1 2004, 07:51 PM
QUOTE(Bruce Allert @ Nov 1 2004, 07:26 PM)
not too hard but enough to what I think it won't come loose.
......b
Bruce, you nailed it!!!!!!
GS9146Driver
Nov 1 2004, 08:35 PM
All this talk of valve lash adj. has inspired me, I think I will go get with it and adj. the 914-6. I'll have to try the dial indicator, nice idea.
Thx, George.
ArtechnikA
Nov 1 2004, 08:37 PM
just for completeness / correctness --
0.004" == 0,1mm -- NOT 0,01mm ...
Rusty
Nov 1 2004, 10:20 PM
Corrected, Rich. Thanks.
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