Well, I removed the seam sealer in the rear trunk today.

I have 3M seam sealer, in a tube, should I use this to 'patch' the seams, both around the body joints and the circular disks?

What have ya'll done before (please add pics)?

Dr Dave (DNHunt) what have you done since you removed your seam sealer?

i used nothing, but i did do truck bed liner, which worked well

scott t

That's beautiful...

Yes, 3M sealer is good stuff. Use a phosphorus wash (Ospho, or something like that) and then a good self etching primer first.

-Rusty

Rusty, do you have any 'after' pics?

watsonrx13 - How did you remove it? Did you use heat, chisel, or one of those stiff wire wheels?

Do you need to put new sealer down? I think it looks great just primed and painted over. Not sure what the pros think though. I supposed the 3M stuff would be good and you could apply is smooth so it'd look better. Any pics from those that have removed and/or reapplied sealer?

From what i've seen from taking seam sealer off of mine, I wouldn't put it back on.

Excusie me for busting in. I use all those methods to get that off. When you get to the tight corners, get your credit card out and buy those small dremel wire wheels.

I just started working on my V8 cooling system, and had to weld some mounts near an area with seam sealer. Took my torch and gently warmed up the area I had to clean. Seam sealer came right up using a putty knife. It was very easy to do. Most of it just peeled right off.

Andy

how did you get it so clean in there!!!

I'm betting that your car will never see the 30 years of use/abuse/distress/pickyouradjective that got it to this point. If you've removed all that factory seam sealer, it's not going to be concours perfect, and your probably not going that direction anyway.

I'd TIG weld the seams, metal prep (like Rusty says), paint, and forget about re-applying seam sealer. I really like the DuPont Vari-Prime self etching bare metal primer, but it's expensive.

As far as removal, we use a wood chisel (re-sharpenable) with care, wire wheels, and 3M bristle discs which are great. I would avoid using any heat beyond a heat gun, if your going to use heat. The factory seam sealer is PVC based which is very corrosive if it melts or is burned. FYI, plastic molding tools for PVC must be made of stainless.

it looks really good in there and i know it was alot of work, but be sure to put down a goo acid ecth prime before painting , or nothing will stick, there is alot of very good sealers out there, in a two part urahtne base that you apply with a gun, duramix is really good, they have a sealer the is # 4226 self levling. looks awesome when aplied right, then if you want the factory look around the ecges look into a sprayable seamseal by winser, exact duplicate to the factory and can be apllied to look any way you want, some expensive products but the out come is un beatable,

Just resurecting this thread to see if anyone has anymore opinions on wether or not to put the seam sealer back on. I'm taking all the sound deadening material out and sealer is coming with it.

What's the deal?