Hey Guys,
My dad and I are doing a Rustoration on a 914 2L.
Basically the Drivers floor / passenger rear / passenger firewall / trunk / battery tray.
The Longs look good.... we think.

Here is my question,
On the hellhole, how much pitting is ok?
What should i do for this?





And here is an overview of the lil darlin



Thanks for any advice!

-Eric

I am no expert when it comes to body work, but if it were my car I would replace that area. But I will defer to the body experts.

Remember, you're only looking at one side of it...

Use the sharp screwdriver test.

I stab at it like im trying to kill a intruder... If it goes through a little bit, I'd replace.

That being said I had something similar and replaced it.

I actually tend to take a more conservative approach. Usually these cars have so much work that needs to be done that unless you're planning on building a big-track racecar or building a 100pt restoration, you can leave stuff like that. That pitting will never cause a problem and replacing it is just more work. Rust convert it. Check carefully for pinholes. Then move on to other projects.

BTW, the metal there is double walled, so there is the pitted metal you see there and there is probably perfect metal right underneath it.

Yeah, the more I look at it, the more I think - don't bother (except for the two conditions above, race car/restoration).

I agree with the screwdriver stabb test

Thank you for the advice guys,
I will go ahead and stab at it a bit

Would welding a piece of metal over the pitting do anything?
(clean all the pits first of course and then use weld-through primer)

No, that will just trap moisture. From what I can see (quickly) it looks fine.

My '75 had some good-sized holes down there so Milt (Zeke) cut out and replaced the bad sections.

My wife's '71 doesn't look as pitted an yours, so I just treated it and painted over it.

Take an ice pick to it to see how thin it is.

Okie doke,
I will do that,

Thanks Guys!

For once I have to disagree with Mark. Once the hell hole is compromised, these cars rust from the inside out. You need to perform the " screwdriver " test on the outside as well before making a final call on this car. Jab the long and the suspension console as well. I would also encourage taking a knotted wire brush to the whole suspension console, and jack post areas as well. Better safe than sorry

I would be very tempted to leave that
That said I would run a drill through in a couple of places top and bottom and see how it was. Screwdriver test won't always tell you what's inside. Easy to plug weld a hole you drill

I can take it.

Santa Cruz, CA versus Richmond, VA.

That looks about like what mine was. I used the screw driver and hammer trick and managed to get the screw driver to break through in 2 spots at the edge of the inner fender. I cut mine out just because it seemed to be the right thing to do. When I did cut it out the underside looked really good actually. There was only discolouration but no pitting. But heck, its not like it takes long to cut out a small chunk of the top of the frame rail and replace it. If the door gaps havent been affected at all and there is nothing else going on that would affect the structural integrity you may not even have to brace the door openings. I know i didnt have to in mine anyways. If you have everything ready, to cut that out, fab a new piece and weld it in was an afternoon job for me.

EAST COAST MUTHA FUCHA !!