Finaly got my '76 running (new TB, CHT, TPS, injectors, FI points etc...)...seems to want to run great (20k mi on rebuilt engine).

Questions on dizzy install....remind me, the rotor will point at the #1 mark twice, but only once @ TDC correct? so its possible to be trying to static time it while @ BDC even if rotor is pointing at dizzy notch?

#1 cyl is at top on stroke when the timing marks lines up but rotor does not line up, will not static time (when I get poinjts to fire rotor is pointing off to never never land). Mark is 1 notch from thick impeller post.

Tried turning engine with finger over #1 cyl w/plug removed, had compression, and rotor pointed to #1 dizzy post, was 1 notch past thick impeller post but was NOT on timing marks (180 off). Static timmed it ok.....

Just bought a dental mirror and will look inside timing access hole tommorow (barring several feet of snow)....I used what I assumed were the PO's timing marks but they may be wrong, as I cannot get rotor to point @ #1 dizzy post when current timing marks are lined up.

So....if the PO's timing marks ARE correct, is it possible to have rotor point @ #1 dizzy post on TDC and be off a little on top dead exhaust stroke?

Mark:

I am no expert and to me if you ask 100 people on this board the same question, you get 100 different answers...

But I had the same problem with PO timing marks...I know it's not scientific but to make certain I have #1 at TDC, I used a wooden dowel through the spark plug hole...As you turn the wheel, the dowel will reach out to a point and then start to go back down...find that high point and that will be TDC...

As I understand the timing mark for my 2.0, the one just past the thick post on the fan is 27% not TDC...TDC is four blades before...When your sure you're there, mark the flywheel through the opening in the bell housing @ the 6 o'clock position...

If nothing else, this method will draw a lot of comments for you to review...

2-OH!


2-OH!

Ok, here's what I do. Pull #1 spark plug as already mentioned, and make sure that it as at the top, on the compression stroke. You can also pull the valve cover to make sure that the rockers are loose, to make sure it's on compression. Now, just as one final check, if you crawl under the car, there is a hole on the top of the transmission bell housing. If you stick your finger in there, you should feel a notch. If all of these line up, then it should at TDC. When all of this lines up, the rotor should be pointing at the #1 plug wire. If you look at the fan, you should see some sort of mark that denotes TDC, and there should be another mark a couple inches past, denoting 27 degrees.

I hope this makes sense.