I'm a newbe to this forum and getting back into being a 914 owner.

Back in highschool (class of '83) I had a '70 1.7 liter from Florida. When I bought the car, it had high miles. The only thing good about the car was the frame that had no rust and was straight. I had to rebuild everything else. Regardless, I loved that car and dream of it to this day. Wasted a lot of time and money fixing it up before getting a '74 part car with shot longintudinals. Put the engine, tranny, shifter linkage, interior, rims from the '74 into the '70. When I was done, I had a really nice car. Sold the car in '87 when I graduated college and bought a Jeep.

I'm ready to become a 914 owner again. I have a space in the garage and a few more bucks to spend than when I was in highschool. However, I have 2 kids so not a ton of time and not a lot of money.

This time around, I know a lot more about 914's and what it takes to build the car I want. Things are starting out a bit backwards, because I'm buying the parts car first. Negotiating to pick up a '74 2.0 rust bucket in my home state of NJ. The price is $800 without the rims, but still far in excess of $800 in parts. I just was the car for the 2.0 liter and the midshifting tranny.

Here is where I need your help. Because the '74 will give me enough parts to build a road worthy car, I'm really just looking for a road worthy frame with a title. Any suspension upgrades would be ideal.

I don't plan on doing a restoration or create a show car. Instead, I want to build a lightweight roadster with highperformance 4 cylinder, tuned suspension and improved breaks. Most of the money and time will go into the engine.

If any of you guys live near NJ and own a chasis that fits the bill, please let me know. I've been reading these postings for a while and realized there are guys out there will multiple cars never seeing the road.

It is my plan to keep this thread going once I get a car so I can ask a lot of questions. For example, how can I replace the headlight motors with a manual pull to save weight? How do you balance a motor?

I will also start a build thread when the time comes.

The cheapest way to get a good 914 is to buy the best one you can. Personally, I don't think the $800 car is much of a deal (I've seen it in person). By the time you flatbed it to your house, your at ~1K for maybe $1K of parts that you might or might not need. You can get your core 2.0 engine and trans for less than 1K. Again, just my opinion. There is a terrific car for about $5K in NC. Much, much less than the 10 to 15K you will spend piecing a car together from chassis and parts cars. There are also cars for sale from time to time in your general area for reasonable prices. A project car that sits for years in your garage is the most expensive car you can buy. If you want help, let me know. I visit my parents from time to time in Moorestown, NJ. Mark

For $800 bucks to haul that car away, I'd want the wheels thrown in too.

Gladaseeya! Wecome to our group. You'll be glad you came.... Mostly

I added my hometown to my profile, but not sure it will show up in my signature. In case it doesn't, I live in Madison, NJ.

I hear what you're saying about buying the "best" 914 you can afford. I'm defining best as the one that best fits my needs. Example of what I'm looking for would be the Raby powered teener that was for sale in NJ over the summer for ~$9k. Not much to look at, but fast. Some people must see things the way I do because that car sold quickly. Most of the other cars I see for sale in the area are priced high because of the way they look. The modified cars seem to reside on the left coast. Of course in CA they go crazy over appearance and performance (no offense).

If anyone knows of a 914 4 for sale with strong performance located in the North East and ready to drive, let me know. Wife will be a lot happier if I bring home something that drives. Not looking forward to hearing her complain about how long it will take me to get a project on the road.

A good looking one on Ebay right now:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1973-PORSCH...forcev4exp=true

It is always nice to see a new member who wants to save a car and drive it. I do tend to agree with a couple of the posts above about the '74 for $800 - unless it really comes with some nice parts you are better off shopping for a car in better shape that is driving now. These cars can chew up a bit of money getting them together correctly so they are safe to drive some 40 years after being built. The best advise is don't rush and be prepared to look at a few cars first. Good luck with the hunt.

My best advise, take "emotion out" and take your time finding a rust free body first. Get help from NJ locals on this site for a win, win, decision. Happy wife, happy life!!

Tom

Might be worth finding one out west that fits the bill, even with transport you may find yourself ahead if you are able to find a clean, solid 914. Let me know if I can be any help

I have a '74 rolling chassis that is mostly rust free.
It has no lids or doors.
It needs minor body repair at the left rear, and rust repair at the bottom of the jackpost supports. It also needs rust repair in the front trunk seal channel.
I want $1K for it as is, $2K repaired.
Does not come with a title though.

Ha. My wife wasn't happy when my 914 was running and certainly isn't happy now that it has been sitting in the garage for 10-15 years in various stages of "restoration". She even offered to buy me a relatives 2006 Cayman IF I got rid of the 914. I turned her down. What can I say, the dream lives on. Did you go to Madison High?

Bolton is a manageable distance from me so may be interested the chasis. Please send me a few pics hvonsteiger@yahoo.com

Also, need to know what I must do to get a title.

Hans

I grew up in CT and moved to NJ about 3 years ago. It's nice area and I'm glad we made the move.

I totally agree on the buy the best you can afford. If you throw in all the tools and the cost of materials especially any color red paint the price of a good complete car gets cheaper all the time. Most car guys can handle the wrench work but chasing good parts, doing lasting body work and putting a good paint job on is usually way past the regular car guy. When you gotta hire out work is where it gets expensive. Also a good 2 liter 914 motor is about the most expensive 4 cylinder you can hotrod in my opinion.

That car on ebay looks nice in the pictures but it's not a 7k car, it will go for more than that, probably 10k, also in my opinion. That would still be way cheaper than building your own.

It's a nice car and agree that I couldn't buy a project and rehab it for like they did for less than $10k. I saw a build thread where the guy spent $10k on rust repair.

That being said, it's not the car for me. It's a great "restoration" except for the conversion to carbs which really seem like a wise move on what would otherwise be stock car. I'm looking to do some suspension and more substnatial engine upgrades. It wouldn't make sense to go tearing apart the car on Ebay because it appears "finished" as it sits.

A performance daily driver (chipped paint and all) is more for me and I'll leave the show cars to others. That is not to say I won't drive the car to shows so I can see the work others have done. Looking through the build threads, I'm amazed at what people have done to 914s. These rotisery restorations are incredible and then they put in custom interiors, etc... Can't wait to check out some of these in person.

I realize one could probably get more hp for the money going with a Subaru or Chevy motor. However, I'm afraid it will raise the compexity of the build and reliability will suffer. As soon as you go water cooled, you are talking about a lot more custom parts and things to break. Many people will probably disagree with me so let's just say it goes beyond my talents. Not to say building a performance type 4 motor is easy. I realize that it takes professional help to get decent performance.

Lastly, even figuring out how to make suspension and break upgrades isn't trivial. I'm hoping people in this forum will be able to give me some advice suspension and breaks.