Get tow vehicle...check
Get tow ball, wiring, etc...check
Get trailer...check
Register trailer...check
Get good quality ratcheting tie-downs...check

OK, now what the heck do the tie-downs connect to on my car? I don't have the car here to look at, but I am having a tough time visualizing a good strong place to attach the rings/clips front & rear.

Any other safety procedures to follow when planting the car on the trailer? I am assuming I want to leave it in gear (?) but what else?

I sure would hate to see a fresh six conversion launch backwards into traffic on the I5...

(Most likely somebody will be around to help me the first time I rig up the car, but I can't count on that for sure.)

I connect the tie downs to one corner of the front at the triangular opening of the suspension and the opposite rear corner to the axle. I set the parking brake and leave it in 1st gear. Never had the car move. I admit I worry about stressing the rear wheel bearing and cv's but I think the brake helps prevent that. I also put a wood block under the wheel. And of course I'm a real smooth driver.

not sure where to do it, but I remember reading road & track once when mario andretti was doing a supercar shootout test at a texas speedway. RUF had sent over their top car and when mario took it out the car was scary at speed, jumping full lanes. RUF had their own mechanics on site and they determined the suspension was screwed because of the way it was strapped down on the plane.

I wouldn't use the control arm as a tie down point as I have seen a bent one from a PO doing just that.

I use the towing ring in the front and/or if the wheels have big enough holes I run the straps through the wheels and to the D rings. In the back I either use the rear eye hook, the wheels, or the engine cross bar in a pinch, never the axels as I think that is a bad idea.

General procedure is to put the car on the trailer, get it where you want it on the trailer and take it OUT of gear and brake OFF, put on the tie downs where you want them and get them as tight as you want, then put the car in gear and set the brake...This is to be sure you arn't fighting the brakes and gear box when you are trying to get the tie downs tight, and could result in an accident later.

Good luck,

Tony

Excellent timing Chris! I was about to post the same question. I bought the local trailer I told you about. The car is going on it this weekend so I can power wash the engine compartment.

Thanks for the replies gang!

There are several ways to tie the car to the trailer. I'll tell you how and why I tie mine like I do.

In front: I use chain and hooks to attach to the front inside of the A arm. I use turnbuckles to tighen the chain.

In the rear I run straps through the wheels and attach chains to the rings on the straps.

I would never attach to the body or the axles. You want the suspension of the car to absorb some of the bumps of the trailer. If you tie to the body of the car, the car's suspension is not working for you. You're working against the springs on the car. Tie the wheels down and let the car move on its own springs.

Never set the brake, keep it in gear or tie on to the axles. No matter how tight you racket those straps they will have some slack in them. When you hit the brakes that car will roll on the trailer and if it is in gear that is putting stress on the gears. And if you tie to the axles in the rear-that is worse because the CV joints have play in them and will move. Same is true of setting the brake.

The best straps are the ones that go around the outside of the tires, and pull the tires onto the trailer. But you need two tie down eyes for each wheel and clearance to get in the fenders to install the straps. They work well with wide slicks.

You find some that won't agree with me on this but I've had more than one person tell me I'm doing it right.

Paul

I use tire straps. These are made to go over the tires and have a hook on one end. The other end goes thru the rachet to tighten.

Made by: B. Erickson MFG., Thamesville, ON.

3300 Lb. Working Load

Member of: Web Sling & Tie Down Association

Sounds good to me, but I won't use the front a-arms. I'll go ahead and use the wheels in the front also. Since I'm going to be doing this quite a bit the next few months, any advice for trailering a 914 with no motor/trans/ebrake?

Everyone has their own ideas.
Brake on (if you have one), yes.
Out of gear, yes.
Tie down to wheels, not body, yes.
And, a somewhat slack safety chain just in case.

There are eyebolts that replace one lug nut on each wheel for a cinch strap with hooks. I like the over the tire method a lot and I think there is one system where you go around the tire and back on the back and foward on the front. Thru the wheels is real good too. Or a little bit of everything.

Chris, how 'bout a pic of your trailer.

Here's a picture of the straps on the dolly. Same as on the trailer. (No photo) The straps cinch the tires down and hold the car from moving. At 3300lbs working load per strap (4 X 3300) that gives you 6 times the weight of the car as a safe working load. With the straps over the tires there is no rough edges for then to rub on and you can strap the tires down with 20lbs air in the tires and inflate them to 30lbs for extra tightness. I hook a safety chain to the front tow eye also.

Milt,

Chris posted a pic a few days back. Do a search for campbellcj and trailer. It's pretty nice.

I've got a autox this weekend and I'll take some shots of how I tie it down and post them.

Paul

Get somebody to take some pics of your car also!

Thanks a lot for the replies. I think I'm getting a good idea of how to go about this.

I got "regular" 6' ratcheting tie-downs, not the over-the-tire kind, so I will have to go with those for now. It seems like you'd need really loooooong ones to loop thru the wheels and back to the d-rings? If I need longer ones, I do have time to exchange these.... next event is the 24th.

Here's a pic of the trailer. It seems pretty decent to me and should definitely do the job until I have the burning itch (and budget) for an enclosed one (and likely a bigger tow vehicle to pull it).

I use the suspension or the loops on the lug nuts.....the shorter the run of tie downs the better....

Use the heavest tie downs you can.....the 6 times working factor is what we use at work for repelling ropes. Best to be safe than sorry.

Nice trailer

I think these tie-downs are rated at 3300lbs/ea (X4). My car is a tad over 2000lbs.

First test pull in a week or so. Hopefully I can get the brake controller in place by then, but I think it will tow reasonably well w/o the trailer brakes if I have to.

Nice trailer! How much did that put you back??

Chris, that is static weight. When you hit the binders on your tow vehicle, your car has more potential. So even though you have over 13,000 lbs. of strapping power, it goes w/o saying that you get on there the most you can. Weird things can happen when towing a trailer. You don't want the thing to be on the verge in a panic situation.

FYI:

State of Ca. says you have to use 4 straps and have positive locking sfatey chains.

Oh..

I run two straps to the control arms support tubes and hook them. Done this for 16 years.

I wrap around the rear shocks with a "axle" strap or the tie down and go back to the hooking point.

I use 6 foot straps in the rear and 4 foot straps for the front.

The hot ticket:

Have your fab guy weld a ring on the bottom of each rear control arm so you can hook it without looking..

NEVER use the front tow hook. I watch people rip them off all the time. They are held on by 8-10 spot welds. Not strong. Great for pulling it out of a ditch (one time)

B

I'm in the process of doing this.
Got the tie thing handled....Harbor Freight....10000lb
rachet tie downs....18 bucks a pop.....NOT made in USA.

What I'm now lookin' for is wheel chocks. I've seen some made of moulded plastic....any clues as to where to find these?

From the "best laid plans" department:

To get sufficient tongue weight, I had to pull off the winch and storage box as the car ran into em'....shit!
Relocating the winch is gonna be necessary....the box ain't gonna happen.....this would be Plan D, as I recall.

Try a boat supply store for the plastic wheel chocks. They use them for their boat trailers when they store them.

Paul

Thanx, Paul.

I gotta get this sucker ready to run up to Bremerton on the 24th.....weather permitting. Since the Seattle guys wimped out on coming down here, I gotta go to their sandbox to play with them.....I plan on gettin' beat....the first time

On my 2.0 911 vintage racer, my Trailex has a positive wheel stop at the front, which I winch the car against. Then I draw it back with rachet straps at the rear. The key here, and this save a bunch of time, is this http://www.p-car.com/products/tiedown/. You just snap in and you're done. I had to have the lower shock bushing machined an amount equal to the thickness of the tie down bracket, to keep all of the geometry the same.

At the front I loop an axle strap around the lower A arm, at the front, right along side the body pickup point, where it is strongest. And then rachet strap it tight. I use a sleeve over the strap so it doesn't chaff as it draws tight.

I don't have an emergency brake, and I always leave it out of gear.

Tony