couple more shots. I just wanted to document this for myself really... I painted it to look more pseudo-6.
It also has my cannabilized strut tops from my old -4 racecar:

(ohhhh.. the -4 vin doesn't do much for making it look like a -6, does it)

Awesome work, Brant! keep the updates and the pics coming!

I'm proud of this one. Here is the throttle linkage mount we made. I stole the idea from Mike Ferguson's conversion. We made it from alloy though....

The bell crank itself is not in this shot unfortunately, but you can see the mount.

Also in this shot is a bit of the speedo drive.
Again for a tiny bit of weight; we took the stock drive apart and removed the gear.

AJ then tig'd the alloy housing to seal it up.
We then reinstalled the alloy housing with the o-ring, and put a plastic cap over the hole for dirt:

Ok, this one is for scott schroeder... (Scott thanks for the extra engine lid screen, here it is)

I have built a GT style lid previously on my -4 racecar.
So from that experiment, plus incorporating a few items from tech articles, here is the lid for this car:

here is a closer one (not full view) of the underside:

earlier in the thread I mentioned that the mounts for this lid poke into the cavity of the firewall. Here is a better view of how the forward edge of my lid mounts:

don't make fun of my welds now....
but here is the back side of the same mount:

I haven't assembled all the bits of my rear suspension yet, but here is a trailer.

Ohh... another thanks to John Lush is in order. (John, here is the reason I had to borrow those rear cups. There in the mail back to you as we speak)

I'm using a toe adjustment rod on the outboard of the rear suspension. Purpose is to lock in the toe adjustment, and rule out any changes happening in the corners.

Here is the rear suspension cup:

Another of the back side of the cup:

Previously in this thread I mentioned the weird/mounts in my longs. Here is a better picture. The toe braces run forward and mount to the long.

The mounting point consists of a threaded tube that actually runs all the way through the long. It also ties in the inboard and out board sides of the long.

(In some of the engine bay pictures you can see a tiny bit of the inboard view)

Here is the outboard view:

no washer on the long mount for toe?

Don't have it actually bolted together yet..
don't think a washer will be necessary, but will see when I get the rear suspension bolted on.

brant

JP... I'll be able to add more later or tomorrow, but here is an overall view of the rear suspension console brace.

earlier in this thread I showed the attatchment points for this brace bar. And here is one with the bar installed.

On my -4 race car, I ripped out 2 rear suspension consoles. Neither of them were rusty AT ALL.

It was during the install of the 3rd console around 1994 that AJ educated me to the need for a brace. I ran his early version of brace for somewhere around 10 years on my -4 race car with no problems.

Here is the current version:

JP,

I know that these were fuzzy and hard to make out earlier in the thread. Here are a couple of close ups you asked for.

To be perfectly honest, if I was doing this car over this is about the only area I would clean up/do differently.
The problem is that this mounting point was welded in before we had finished removing the -4 mounts... If I had it to do over it would be cleaner. Still I think its strong enough and should work fine.

Here is one shot:

Here is a 2nd shot, slightly closer angle:

Where this brace attatches to the mounting nut of the swing arm... AJ welds an updown strip of metal into the cavity in the center of the mounting nut. Then overlaps it with this brace. I drew a picture because its kinda hard to explain. The new metal are the 2 pieces in red:

Here is a photo of it.

(This is from the opposite side of the car so its confusing in that it looks backwards):

Thanks, Brant.
I'm hoping to get one more season out of my ears .....and my motor.

I like what you've done, but a question (or 2).
Why the tie rod type brace? Wouldn't a welded in tube have done the same the same job?
Is there a big freakin gusset/doubler at the firewall end under the mounting clevis?

Mine are holding up. (crossed fingers smiley here)
I seamed welded them on the outer perimeter (amongst other spots) then ground the welds smooth ...leaving the crown of the welds. I like your reinforcing piece around the hole.
The hole and the spot welds would seem the be the spots where cracks start.

Tie rod braces instead of weld in:

2 reasons for me.
1) I'm not allowed to do weld in
2) it gets crowded in there and its nice to have them removeable (especially on a 4 cylinder as, my 4cylinder had them much more angled and the motor would have hit them during motor drops without unbolting them first)


Mounting Clevis at firewall end:

nope.
On the 4 cylinder the brace was angled to the natural and strong indent... but hopefully strenght won't be an issue on this one because it is not doubled...

brant

couple more shots.
here is a better view(s) of what we made up for a throttle bellcrank. Had to change the angles to work on this rear-ward location:

throttle cable from the back of its mount.
Its a stock -4 cable (easier to find in a time of need)

we took an extra snap-on ball from the front of a stock cable and solder-filled it in. Then re-drilled and tapped it to screw onto the back of a stock cable.

as I mentioned previously, the bell-crank mounting bracket is aluminum. The throttle cable bracket is (obviously) welded onto roller console:

Brant..you suck...that car is too damn nice and clean !!!!!

totally awesome job there buddy, me like it alot

do you add any "preload" to that tie rod brace?? if so, + or - ??

last one of the bellcrank. Here you can see the aluminum bracket better. This way I should be able to unbolt my whole throttle set up and move it to a 2nd tranny without having to tap every tranny case for a -6 bellcrank

oh.. you can also see a part of the tin work my dad fabricated... That shiny piece is the one. When we removed the stock 911 tin work it was open here... so dad sealed it off since we are not running any 914-6 tin:

thank you sir..
no.. not much preload.

just put them in and then "push" or lengthen them until they are good and snug... then lock them down.

brant

cable routing for the new set up.

Also got the shift rod installed. Its got the delerin bushing in the firewall, brass bushings in the knuckle. Knuckle is turned 90degrees, brass bushing where the bar passes through the console, and an extension on the cup where it slides onto the shaft/ball. We made the bar as straight as possible, with only the slightest curve on the back 4-6 inches:

Top of the throttle linkage.

plus we got most of the heat cover, and fuel lines installed:

Last one for now.
We are doing some of the preliminary interior lay out.
We are building a new dash which will be aluminum (except for the guage pod) when we get done. Here are some of the templates in all there glorious colors:

is that a TC Racing quickrelease and s-wheel?

Yep...

you have one don't you?
was it on your 911?
did you like it in real world use?

I doubt the suede will wear that well, but seems like a very good release system.

brant

yep I've got the same QR, it's nice
I've got a deep dish wheel (similar to the TC deepdish one)
Only drawback on the QR is that you need to have a hub that fits (which I already had )
Haven't used/tried it in the 911 though...

I have one, too. Only used while the car was sitting in the shop though

Sean,

In bluecar?

brant

Brant, your work is amazing! I will say your bell crank kicks butt, but looks complicated. A lot of pieces to modify, but man, looks great!

thanks dan..
yes probably over complicated, and I sure wouldn't want to make them for sale (I'd loose money)

but thanks
brant

Brant:

The food police are all het up about a double meat, double
cheese, double bacon, gut bomb.....this is national news?

Anyhow, the fire wall police are gonna object to your avatar.
Don't you realize that some 10 year old may copy your firewall & get all burnt up?

JP,

do you think it would help my liability standing if I had a warning sticker?

maybe I should have a crawl at the bottom of my posts with a skull and cross bones "do not imitate the idiot in these posts....yada yada ya..."

I'm actually sruprised the captain hasn't said anything about that hole yet...

Soon... we will make an aluminum cover for it. I know I'll certainly sleep better at night once that happens...

ha.

brant

I thought the hole was part of a new fangled fingernail clipper

Brant, yup Bluecar has one. I think I bought the first one in the US. They sold it on eBay before they had any distribution set up, and never sold anything else there. I like it, others have warned that you can't get out if you only have one hand, so I hope I never break an arm or a hand or anything in an accident.

Have you tried any of the other QR's out there? Just as impossible to operate single handed...
(unless you've got hands like Jimi Hendrix)

Hi again...

fairly productive Christmas weekend really.
we roughed in the dash.. Took forever!

Anyways I'll post a few shots of it.
Its far from done, but at least its started...
I'm doing a stock looking guage pod, which is not ready for its debut yet... but here are pictures of the larger part of the dash where it runs across the car in the stock-ish location.

Its made from aluminum sheeting, and then rolled over the tall knee bar behind it.

In the pictures its partially covered with masking tape still (which we used to reduce installation scratches):

Our local vintage club has a rule which requires that the car retain a dashboard... They allow you to modify it as long as it appears to have some dash and interior left...

goes back to the "vintage look"

so anyways as you can see we removed the stock dash entirely and are making this one back up...

We upholstered the top with a black vinyl and then made the face from aluminum

here is another:

Here is a close up of the rivet line:

Installation involved riveting and then bending or rolling it down and then finally attatching the bottom:

couple of last dash pics for now...
here is the underside. It was attatched to add strength and "finish" to the dash:

And here is inside kinda. We cut holes in the underside so that it would be possible to get your hands in there for wiring purposes....

overall, probably about 15lbs lighter than the stock frame and stock dash:

this looks great brant!

Here is another pic. Its a coil bracket that dad made up from aluminum. Also pictured is the aluminum bolt and nut that will pinch it tight...

I think we will probalby mount it on the firewall ... kinda over in the hell-hole area:

Ok we also got the rear suspension hung. I particularly like this shot as it shows the inboard and outboard braces at the same time and in the same plane of direction....

The rear busings are AJRS monoballs:

sorry for the near duplication... similar picture except the oil tank is in this one:

Here is a better picture regarding the toe brace. I tried to show this earlier but un-mounted. With it mounted onto the long it makes more sense.

(boy I wish that valve cover had 3 more holes with 3 more spark plugs):

Your car is amazing it looks as though everything has been thought of and accounted for.

It is sure to be a winner on the track.

Great job Brant, and cheers to your dad. I just got thru all 8 pages and it's amazing how quickly the car is coming together. Nice job.

Chris