I just can't shake it, the 914-bug! I've tried to finish, left for years, came back, tried to sell her and now just want to get her running - does this sound familiar to anyone out there? I am sure it does.

I need some help from the forum, I want to breath some life into an engine that ran for 5-MINUTES 5-YEARS ago.

I have taken the gas tank out, painted, treated and in the process of R&R the fuel line with SS line. I will be replacing the gas filter / sock and possibly the gas tank nipple to ensure I get an uncontaminated fuel system up front.

I will R&R all gas lines into the dual 40IDF Webbers as well and anything associated with the fuel lines.

Question: What must I do to prep the engine guts before I attempt to start her? This engine is a virgin and like I mentioned earlier on - it only ran for 5-MINUTES.

Thanks,

Fern

Might want to consider going through the carbs and replacing the Hadleys and diaphragms as they most likely will leak. Drain and replace the oil. Pull the UBS out and squirt some oil in the cylinders. Turn the key and pray. Keep a fire extinguisher handy.

Shoe

Bump - does anyone else want to chime in on this, thanks.

Im with shoe..go through the carbs and replace the gaskets..most of them have shrunk after not seeing fuel for an extended period of time, and will leak once they see fuel once again.

Out of curiosity, why did the motor only run for 5minutes? Cam break in is 20 minutes..not 5.

In any case, like shoe said, fresh oil in the crankcase, and a squirt of oil in each cylinder to lubricate the rings. I would also recomend removing the negative wire on the coil, remove the spark plugs, and turning the engine over until the oil pressure light goes out, similarly to priming a brand new engine. Then reconnect coil wire, reinstall spark plugs, etc, and start it.

This may even be overboard for some people to be perfectly honest, but it is what i personally would do.

Thanks for the feedback. To answer your question - I left the country for work abroad and came back after 4 1/2 years. If you look at the thread - Nando Build you will see some history on the car. I returned and initially was fed up, but I keep looking at her in the garage and really - she is not in bad shape - so I think I want to get her running and take if from ther.

Thanks again for your input. I might need some more as I go from item to item to get her on the road.

Fernando

what i did.

change oil, filter and clean mesh screen (or whatever its called, dont overtighten the screw). idle for 30 minutes. change oil (castrol classic 20/50) and filter. drive 100 miles. see where oil is leaking. (probably pull engine and fix.)

dont forget to replace brake fluid and hoses.check if any of the calipers are stuck (wheel doesnt turn easily).

maybe i should have pulled the oil pan and cleaned it as well?

It has been a while since I posted on the progress of the build thread; here it is:

I first removed the spark plugs and inserted som Mystery Oil into the sparkplug holes, manually moved the belt to move the guts around abit.

Charged the gel battery - that can not hold a charge anymore - that was an expensive gel battery that went to waste.

Changed the oil, oil filter, cleaned out the oil mesh, changed the oil gasket and washer. I tighten the washer as much as possible without crushing the washer, but still had a leak, tightened some more and now the leak is considerably less, but still a drop here and there. Any suggestions on how I can eliminate oil leak completely - most likely a hopeless task....

I pulled the gas tank, plugged the small fuel line outlet, removed the front end fuel line grommet out and from the rear after I pulled out the fuel lines out of the car.

I have ordered a SS fuel line, gas tank filter, new firewall and front compartment grommet. I have reached out to a community member for a main line nipple and nut, but am waiting on a response.

I will install once they come in the mail and change ALL fuel lines leading from the rear to the carbs - change gas filters as well.

I took off both door panels and took all moving parts out, cleaned and lubed. I need a passenger side window that has all the four roller pins in tact and the rear window guide in tact - mine are missing and I get that cock-eyed window effect eveytime I roll the window out.

After cleaning out the inside of the doors I will prep for some sort of insulation and once I install everything plan on covering up with plastic or thin like material used on newer cars.

I would send pictures, but really there is nothing to show other than what has already been posted. If anyone has information on how to install the SS line with the engine in the car please let me know.

It should be arriving shortly.

thanks,

Fern

I forgot to mention, I put 20/50W - is this acceptable oil weight considering the oil galleys have been modified, full flow oil pump and external (larger) oil filter.

That will work.

I just took a motor that sat for 2 years and fired it right up. Carb's still need to be rebuilt, but I've been hamerin on it for over a month now.

Webers don't like to sit unused. You will have to rebuild them at some point. As long as your motor has been sitting, you may have to do it sooner rather than later.

Good luck! Let us know when you get 'er fired. Welcome back!

Fern,
Before you toss the gel battery, read up on how to charge it on the Optima site. Hook up a fully charged battery in parallel with your gel. Then use a charger on both batteries. I read on the Optima site that in order for a charger to work correctly, it needs to see a minimum amount of voltage. I would charge the batteries in this fashion until you see at least 10.5 volts on the gel battery. Then I would just charge the gel by itself.
good luck,
Cesar

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?s=&...t&p=1358189

The engine is out of the car in this video, but it should not make any difference. I did this last year, and it is not difficult, even with only one person.

Hope to hear that your car is running soon!

Thanks will do!

A question for the community: Now that I converted to cards - do I need to hook up the charcoal canister? If I do not do I need to block off the fan shroud?

Thanks,

Ferm

You should connect it to remove gas fumes and vapor from the fuel tank. You will smell the fuel if it is not connected.

It is also the bare minimum smog equipment required. It would connect to you air cleaner. It does not rob any HP so it's best to connect it.

Tonight I slid the SS fuel line that I purchased from Rotary'14 - thanks. It was not as hard as I initially thought, but did have to straighten out the line just a bit at the front end were it comes out through the front fire wall.

I did note some rust in the tunnel, which I find to be odd seeing that the tunnel is completely sealed from the bottom of the car. This car was a Californian before I brought it out to the east coast. Prior to pulling out the plastic fuel lines they all had the rubber grommets that should have prevented most if not all the moisture from getting in.

I am waiting on a large gas tank nipple and nut to finish the gast tank installment and tomorrow I will be going out to my local FLAPS to buy some cushioned clamps to make sure the line doesn't move around the engine comparment. Start the gas hose R & R, etc...

I'm almost at the point of trying to start her. i am planning on attemptiing to start before I do anything to the carbs - just to see if I can get her to crank up. Anybody out there think that is a bad idea? Should I just go ahead and R & R the gaskets and / or ....

Your input would be much appreciated.

Fern