I have a sizeable drip going. (driver side)
I put the new slghtly oversized cork valve gaskets under the covers.
I used a tiny bit of ?forgot name? gasket seal to hold while putting in place (four corners).
One side is fine. no leak (passenger side)
I think the driver side is fine also concering the cork seal and the cover.
It seems the leak is coming from the round pipes going into the valve adjustment area where you set the valves (from back side where the cover goes).
Has anyone else had this issue?
Is this a drop engine repair? (hope not)

I have a spare set of cork seals and could try another round, but do not think this is the problem.
Oil hits the exhaust then runs downhill and drips at two spots.... real bummer...
Smoke and nasty smell....

If the drip is sizeable as you say, then it is probably the cork gasket valve cover seal, as pushrod tube leaks are not that big usually. The cork seal has probably got pushed up at the bottom as you were putting the cover on. You should use silicone or similar to glue it to the head cover, and make sure the surface is clean and dry.

If it is the pushrod tubes, you can replace the seals with the engine in by taking out the rocker arm assemblies. Some install those dry, but they always leak on me unless I use a bit of silicone there, too.

I checked the cork seal and it was not pushed up. (took it off)
I did however initially have trouble getting the wire clip all the way up to the middle of the holder. there was a 6 hour delay when the clip was about 2/3 on until it got to the middle location. Do you think the cork was "squished" and now now sealing unevenly?

Should I ?? waste this one, and put a new one on?
The drip occurs after sitting all night.
It is large enough to run down the pipes a couple of feet towards the muffler and then drip enough to see it on carboard. Maybe 30 or so drips directly below the valves and then about 6 or 7 drips near the dripping spot near the muffler.

Do you still think this is the cork seal? (is the pushrod tube seal a friction seal or a gasket material?)

When I say sizeable leak, I mean like dripping out while you're looking at it, when it's running. Valve covers usually are the leaks that do that. It sounds like it could be the pushrod tubes in your case. A valve cover leaking, though, you can see it. Any time I mess with those, I take a look under the car just as soon as I start it after - you can loose a lot of oil there quick and make a good mess, too.

Assuming that your valve cover gaskets are correctly in place, sounds like the pushrod tubes. Replacement is relatively simple and can be done without engine drop. If replacing the o-rings (2 per tube) on one, I'd do them all at the same time. The o-rings are very inexpensive. On the Pelican site under technical articles they discuss the process. It isn't a very difficult job. If ordering it is a good idea to pick up a couple of spares (both the large and smaller o-ring) in case you manage to mangle on during the install. It isn't that difficult to accidently pinch/cut them when installing. The Pelican site is at: http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/9...ooler_seals.htm

Good luck,

Keith

Make sure you didn't put it on upside down. An easy mistake that will cause your symptoms.

I has installed new pushrod seals prior to a RRC event. I cut one on installation (didn't know till I got back and took it apart) and it would leak massive amounts of oil. We bought a case of oil for the return trip from Moab.

the link on pellican was for the oil cooler not push rod seals.
I assume the same tricks apply.
I asume you can do both inner and outer without removing the engine.

Anyone have a link for advice or I guess just start and follow logic.

Thanks

You can do both inner and outer without dropping the engine.

Also, consider changing out your oil cooler seals.

I think whenever you 'bring one of these back to life' you have to reseal the motor. The big three are the push rod tube seals. I like the Viton replacements. The oil cooler seals, and the oil pressure sender on top of the motor.

Valve cover gasket leaks are usually just from putting the thing on wrong.

I had a leaky valve cover due to it being bent on the lower corner and it would not sit flat. Take the cover off and check it with a 6" straight edge around the sealing surface and it should be perfectly flat all the way around. Mine was off just a little and it would leak static even with carefully placed thick gasket installed. I know the gasket did not slide because the heat exchangers were off and it was very easy to install it correctly. I put an extra cover on and no more leaks. BTW- I knew I dinged it putting the engine on a cradle but it was not that far off and I thought the cork would compensate...no deal. Good Luck

Steps listed by Bleyseng:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-914...tube-seals.html

Step 1- jack up car onto jackstands, drain oil etc......
2.- pop off valve covers
3.-carefully remove rockerarms and wire retainin bail, note the order in which they go so you install them back the same
4. remove pushrods again noting their exact placement in which lifter bore
5. remove pushrod tubes and clean the heck out of them, replacing any that are dented on the ends.
6. Clean the bores where the tube O rings seals really well
7. install O rings on the tubes
8. before you install each tube, lightly coat with Permagasket teflon thread sealant , then install so they seat properly
9 re-install pushrods back, rocker arms etc.
10. Do a valve adjustment
11. install valve covers
12. add new oil filter and new oil.

When it says carefully remove rocker arms and wire retaining bail do you take the bolt off the center bar - one that the rockers pivot on?
How do you remove pushrods -- push and turn?[b]

No. Leave the bolt alone. I use a big needle nose with a rag over it. Grab and gently twist until they unseat then pull them out through the head.

/I suppose you were talking about the push rods.
Or were you talking about taking off the rocker arms

Pushrods tubes. Pushrods don't leak.

So rockers do not need to come off?

Take it to a mechanic.

The rocker arms come off. To do that, you remove the shaft they ride on.

Some tubes will hit the suspension console before they come all the way out of the head. You can still replace the seals with the tube only halfway out, hanging on the head by its middle.

You remove the pushrod tubes by pulling and twisting.

Do one cylinder at a time, set that cylinder to TDC so that both valves are closed and the rocker arms have a little slack. You can't get the torque spec on the rocker arm shaft retaining nuts correct if one of the arms is pushing against a valve spring.

Getting the pushrods seated back into the lifter cups can be a "fun" experience. It often feels like you need three hands to do it. If you don't get them seated, they'll stick out a little too far and push the valve open as you try to tighten the rocker shaft nuts.

The torque on those nuts is only 10 lb-ft.

Make sure to get the bent-wire retaining clip back on the tubes the right way, where the wire rests on the "shoulders" of the tube, and doesn't stick down into the tube.

--DD

As you slide the rocker assemblies off their mounting studs, stick a 2" 5/16 bolt thru the mounting holes to keep the rocker assemblies from springing apart. Makes it real easy to reinstall them by locating the bolts over the studs and pushing the bolts out with the studs.

Once they are off, pull the push rods and note where they came from. The one nearest the suspension ear or firewall (don't remember which does take some creative thought to get it out.

Once they are out, you can pull the pushrod tubes. Not easy sometimes, but they will come out (don't crush them with channel locks). Clean both bosses well (head and case) and put new Viton seals on the ends. Pop them in the bosses dry.