Hello. New here,so here goos.
Back in 2007 started to put the parts and chassie together. I have 3 chassis to work from,2 from Texas and one from Ca. The Texas car seems to be better/less rust but it was hit in the driver front and repaired. Will look into that when I get is up on Rotisserie. Will start building the Rotisserie next.

She will be powered by a JDM Sti using a adapter to the 914 transaxle. Didn't want to go to the Subaru,to much work.

When I get it up on the Rotisserie is this a good time to have blasted clean/paint free?

Here are some photos . Any input is welcome!
Randy

Keep us posted, and inspired
Paul

Thanks Paul!

Also need in put about using the body kit from Sheridan Motorsports . Things like mounting the panels? Thinking about the wide body????? With the little 2.0 Turbo maybe the body is to wide? Will have around 300HP+-? Or should I go with the steel ?

Have you driven a 914 with a side shifter? They are nothing to write home about. I wish I would have gone suby transaxle. My next one will!

Well I drove 140+ miles a day for 3 years with my 73. But I know what you are getting at. They are not a racing trans but I think it would be ok for a old racer? LOL

Always happy to see new subaru 914's, which JDM STI are you thinking? You may want to talk to Britian Smith, as he went Version 8 (or 7, either way RIDICULOUSLY fast)

Ian

What was in it prior? V8?

;

Thanks All!

The motor is from a 1994 Sti. She is close to a 555, Like 275 HP stock.
Here is the chassis tag.

The wide body is to wide for a street car. There is no way you'll find tires to fit that body in street rubber anywhere less than 2k a pop. The narrow body can fit 11" wide rims... Hell my "little" flares fit 10's in the back with 285's.

Edit: When I say wide vs narrow I am referring to Sheridan's body kits...

Good lookin project

Andyrew that was what I was thinking! And the glass may not work well with the people on the city streets? Maybe this is the way to go??

The GT look is the most preferred.

I have fiberglass fenders front/rear (Molded in). Daily drove for a year no issues. Just mount them well and dont stand on them.

"powered by a JDM Sti using a adapter to the 914 transaxle. Didn't want to go to the Subaru,to much work."

I have the WRX and adapter. It shifts ok. The car is fast, then I shift, it is fast again, shift, fast again, ...
We need a logger test of a suby and 901 to see the time between shifts
Then there is first gear that is not much use even before you break it.
Just saying, it is my missing link.

STI, cool!

So ,I have been looking at a lot of build photos. In this photo the center tunnel has been removed. What about making it taller to take the water lines?

Never thought about removing the tunnel. The Subaru trans is TOTALLY worth the little bit of extra work. With the modern trans you can just drive the car without the constant f*(*cking with the 914 trans - ie just drop into 1st gear and go.

My first V8 car had water lines in the tunnel. They transmit a lot of heat into the cabin. You will have to insulate the lines in the tunnel. My car now runs lines under the car. Never had a problem.

"Porcharu" Do you still sell the adapter flanges ?

After reading your page I may need to think about this.
Randy

Wow, all of the support has been removed. No cross and no center tunnel. Looks nice, but how strong is this?

Welded up the ends for the mount.


53 " off the ground and 42" to the leg.

So I got the motor a trans out of storage. I am think of going air to water to air for the innercooler. I have one of a JDM,its in the photo. Think it is on a 220 HP motor.????








The exhaust was built,maybe 5 years ago. My bad! But I'm back at now!

When I put a Subaru 2007 wrx engine in my kit car I ran into the same problem.
I installed a 7" fan which pulls the air through the cooler and exhaust the air to the transmission area, the fan is control by the VSS sensor, when it pulses it turns on the fan. Here are some pictures of it.
Click to view attachment
Click to view attachment

Thanks 904! Think I will stay with water.
Up front I have lots of room for a heat exchanger for the intercooler.

Been working out the Rad. for the motor and will just ad a Rad. for the exchanger. Thinking a 24" by 12" by 1" would do the job?

Some one was asking,some time back what the FWD trans looked like. Here is a photo of the 914 and the FWD Subaru tran's. Is that a word? LOL

Here is a link to the chassis cleaning/Soda blasting.



http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=198596

Cant wait to see your progress. Ive been in DBCoopers car and it was awesome. He is using both the engine and a wrx trans converted to fwd. I think thats the best. He also went with air to water. I have been considering doing the same. How will you vent for the radiator?

Randy,

Looks like a nice setup.

Have you checked the the dimensions on 914 body? You might want to check that they're close before investing lotta time in the body work. I have the paper copies showing where to measure and proper dimensions - could scan them to PDF and send you. I'm sure someone has posted them on this site though.

Keep the pics coming.

You must be kidding? With all the welding I have see on this site,what's a little twist? LOL And if it needs it will just put it on the frame machine and pull the Sh&% out of it.

Thanks for the offer on the scan! Think I'm good.

Don't know about the venting? Was thinking about something like this.

I am moving back over here with rust repair of my project.

As you can see I'm back at it. Photos are the only 2 areas on the floor that will nee work. I'm thinking a small welded in panel ? Ideas from what you guys have done ?

From the bottom.

A Little more cleaning.





Looks like I will have some work to do in the Hell Hole ! But not as bad as most have had to deal with.

With me building a water cooled 914 should I pull the air skirt mounts ?

Depends on how far you're willing to go...

I removed most of the engine shelf and made other modifications. There's no going back now but I was not the first one to cut into the car.

And what about the battery tray ? Not sure their is a better place for it but I figured I would ask.

Mine is in the front near the radiator. I have a cut off switch on the drivers cowl/scuttle.

What about the balance of the car ? With moving the battery that far forward is their a down side ?

You're taking weight away from a higher center of gravity point in the rear to a very low COG point just over the front axle. The new engine weighs more so in theory you should be better sorted this way. Should help even out the whole weight distribution thing and still keep the weight close to the center of the car which helps your handling. Would be interesting to see some others battery boxes and ideas tho...
Has anyone gone with a gel-cel inside the passenger compartment? Is it even recommended?

You've already added fans, water and a radiator to the front so I'd keep that batt in the engine compartment. Scales will say it all.

I will need to find out what the Subaru starter needs in the way of a battery. Maybe I could push it more down into the "hell hole" ?

But all that is AHEAD of the front axle- keeping or adding weight on top or just behind the front axle could help the balance...
Anyone ever measured the weight of a Suby conversion at all 4 corners?

So this is my IDEA list.

Camber & caster weld-in plates?
Coilover shocks,F & R.
Roll Cage (welded in)
Chassis reinforcements.
GT Steel fender flairs.
Vintage Racing seat ( GT )
Front Welded in swaybar reinforcement.
Floor repair (as needed )
Replace jack points.
Right Hell Hole wall repair.
Firewall to trailing arm mount rod.
Cut out air-cooled motor flange.
Windshield post reinforcement. (GT )
GT front hood pins and plates.
4 lug to 5 lug swap.
Racing tow points F & R .
Through hood fuel fill. ( GT Racing ) ?
Repair jack points.
Bigger brakes F & R ?
Cab heater.
Cap A/C .
Turbo steering Kit.
Outside Master battery switch.
Some seam welding.
7" and 8" Fluk's.
JDM EJ20 T.
Megasquirt ECM and harness.
Subaru to Kennedy to 901 trans stuff.
ColdWater mount.

Well its a start. Now I will try to put them into some kind of to do order . Ideas about what to do first ? I'm thinking its the floor,jack points,hello hole ? Kinda work out from their.

Randy

Strip it first of all that's being replaced and fix your metal bits. Then move to the suspension. Get a Subaru trans and dump the heavy, clunky 901 for something that shifts like buttah... Reference Cpt.Tripps build- he's done alot of what you have in mind and it'll save you headaches.

Thanks for the link to Cpt.Tripps build . I was doing fine up to reading about the brake up . Sorry things like that happen. Hope he is doing alright . It is a very cool build . It will help with my build big time. Thanks Cpt.Tripps !
Randy

PLEASE ask me questions if you have them! I've done a lot of cool shit, and I'm still finding myself stuck. It's not as easy as you'd think.

Right now I'm wrestling with the intercooler and how I'd intended to set it up. Getting myself motivated to get in the damn garage and finish the thing is my biggest hurdle right now. That, and money. Ha!

Link in my sig. I'll PM you my mobile number. TXT or call any time. If I can help, I'm happy to.

You'll be helping to motivate me!

Thanks CptTripps !

Been working and thinking about coil over's for the car. So I started playing with some old stuff for a project I never started.

I will try to reuse the front BOGE tubes/spindles but with KYB's in it ? I can always go Bilsten later. Same with the rear but will need to do some more thinking about that.

Here is my first look at making a coil over. For you at home I have a lath to help with making things fit.Will need to turn the cartridge nut. To big and to close to the spring. Spring is a 10" x 2 1/2". Thinking the front will be 175# and the rear at 200# +- ?

Plan is to weld a perch on the front tube and build a spacer for the rear ? Will try to keep its mounts all stock.

Have also been thinking about the 4 to 5 problem. Most of the GT/lookalikes seam to use spacers to fill out the wheel wells. So think I'm going to use a front adaptor to go 4 to 5/130 ? Still working on what to do to the rear.









I know I can just buy it but what fun would that be ?

Randy

I got a set of Boxster hubs. Now I need to know if a 1976 911, 108mm stub will work with it. I have read a little about needing a spacer,and I can make that. And the need to add mounting holes to tie it to the hub.



Thinking about staying with a parking brake. Was thinking after reading, that a 914-6 brake rotor and a spacer on the 914 caliper would be the way to go ? Do I have that right ?

With it being a 930 flange it looks to be a little tight but should work. Think I will use a small offroad CV boot ? Because of the Subaru trans I will build the a flange for another 930 and use 28 spline offroad axles.

What do you think ?
Thanks,Randy

I, cleaned up a 914-4 brake rotor and bolted (one hole) to the Boxster hub. It almost self centers. I then tightened up the wheel lug. Used a transfer punch to mark the 5 bolt pattern. Will drill them after getting a bit for a stud mount ? I want to do a mock up so I'm using what I have. Anybody try using allen bolts for wheel studs ? In dirt racing it is a cheep way to go . With some luck the stub's will be here in a day or two ?





The trailing arm is in the bead-blaster for cleaning. Then some welding. Any body on the board sell the metal kits for the chassis and trailing arm's ?

Randy

I also found a stud set for the hubs. What kind on nut system does the 911 Fluk wheel use ? Is it Man,Ball or conical ? I was thinking its conical but don't know for sure.

Price is right also +- ?

http://www.ringer-racing.com/product.sc?productId=24

Randy

Its a Ball seat. Now I know !

Now here's a pic I havn't posted for a long time.
Click to view attachment

Pretty when they are just finished!