My right rear bearing is making noises. I called my mechanic and he said to get parts and he would install it.

I am looking at the exploded view of rear axle. (See below)

When I order parts, do I just need the Bearing #28?

Is there a race for the control arm because I don't see one?

Does he need to remove CV axle and tap out the bearing from the inside?

Thank you in advance for your help.

You just need the bearing, its a sealed unit so the bearing and races are all one part

Just the bearing!

You might as well replace the bushings also while your in there!!

.... and that's where it starts! "while I'm in there...."

CV has to be removed, along with caliper and rotor.

Hub will have to be removed first or after bearing and hub are pounded out.

You need a tool to reinstall the bearing and hub. Without the proper support the bearing will be destroyed upon hub reinstall.

You will also need a freezer and time to let it freeze for two days, or dry ice. You might also want a torch.

I read about the freezer trick earlier and was planning to do. Getting bearing tomorrow and will freeze until Monday!

If your mechanic is doing the work then he will need to freeze it because it needs to come out of the freezer and directly into the trailing arm before it warms and expands!

I leave a 60w light on the trailing arm for a few hours before and coat it with a light coat of grease. Then I put the frozen bearing in and most of the time it slides in like butter!! But if you wait to long it will stick and you have to finish by pressing it the rest of the way in!

PS: It is way easier to do it on the bench than on the car!

Made my own tool using pipe and caps from the Home Depot. Get pipe to contact the outside of the bearng.
Also used a BFH
Then I used an extra stub axle to finish.
Just one way

Van914

I was going to pack it in ice before taking to the mechanic on Monday. He has a freezer and we will put in there while we dissemble the hub, CV axle, old bearing, etc! We will try to get heat on the trailing arm. It is going to low 30's Monday morning.

Thanks for the tip!

PBM videos on U tube of tear down and install

PBM?

How 'bout PMB

I do them on the car.

I have also done them on the car but I find it easier to just pull the arm, leave the axcels on the car and do them on the bench!

I've done them in the car but next time I'm pulling the arm so I have an excuse to buy a press.

I had no luck getting a bearing out recently - tried various versions of the homemade bearing pullers, tried a BFH, tried even a bigger BFH, still no joy, cried uncle and took the trailing arm to the shop and let them press it out.

If you are installing the hub vice your mechanic, don't forget to install the bearing cap (retainer) before installing the hub - failure to do so will result in stream of profanity and likely a ruined bearing.

CV gaskets?

I know this is an old thread but I saw something even older on another forum that I thought might be useful. I cant take credit, the author was someone named SammyG

bearings and any other parts that are designed to have an interference fit need to be installed in one of two ways, either with a press pushing on the correct place (either inside or outside race depending on where the interference is)
or you need to temporarily eliminate the interference fit with temperature diferentiation. heat the outer part and/or cool the inside part and you suddenly have clearance until the temperatures normalize.
What you should have done was to put the hub in the freezer and put the bearings in the oven and heat them up to around 230 degrees F. Then carefully slide the bearings onto the hub.
Then put the entire hub with bearings in the freezer (inside a plastic bag) until it is cold then carefully insert it into the control arm. No hammers allowed.

The correct schnorr washers for the cv bolts for when you put them back in.

^
Agreed,
If a proper press or extractor is not available,a hammer is the way to damage the bearing.
Cooking the bearings in clean oil to above 212 F,more like 300 F,will allow the bearing to slip onto a chilled shaft.
Both must be checked for actual dimensions and the resulting interference at operational temperature.SOP.
Roller bearing crankshafts and spindles have certain required methods.
Induction heating of bearings or housings is another way,production oriented.
https://www.google.ca/webhp?sourceid=chrome...=bearings%20101
https://www.google.ca/webhp?sourceid=chrome...%20installation
https://www.google.ca/search?q=bearing+pull...anSDP0Q_AUIBigB

Click to view attachment

In the machine trade,smoking a 30K$ machine bearing is not an option,therefore expertise and experience is applied.

/

Hi,
Would you mind describing the noise?
I have a right side noise as well.
Thanks,
Jack

I chilled the bearing and then started it with a rubber mallet. Then used hydraulic press per the PMB video.

The harbor freight 20 ton press has proven itself to be one of those tools I wish I had bought years ago. It is not a tool you use a lot but there is nothing better for those times when it is appropriate. Kind of like an impact screwdriver or a handgun, rarely needed but when the time comes you will be glad you have one.

Can you please clarifying "bushings"? I'm sure it's obvious to someone with experience, but it's not to me. There's nothing in the diagram called "bushing". Thank you.

@DennisV
Reference is to the trailing arm rubber bushings

No need to replace the bushings if you're leaving the trailing arms in place (unless they are shot).

This job was done on my car recently and the mechanic said he had to drop the exhaust to get the drive shaft out to change the rear wheel bearing?

Holy 12 years old thread

It's possible the exhaust needed to be dropped. Was he able to complete the job?

Yes he completed the job. I was just a bit surprised that the driveshaft couldn't be removed without dropping the exhaust

It can be done without removing the exhaust without too much difficulty. I don't remove the exhaust unless absolutely necessary given how easy it is to strip threads in the heads.

I changed both awhile ago, had the bearings packed in dry ice overnight. Slipped right in. Did the same for the hubs, after things neutralized.

EZ peasy

What’s the life expectancy for a rear bearing ?
And, are the different brands equal in quality ?

Life = 100k miles if using a quality bearing and installed properly. Not including AX and track use. Normal road use. Proper installation and bearing pre-load (via proper hub stub torque) is critical to getting that kind of life. If I had to guess, I’d bet 40% of DIY installs are done incorrectly resulting in much shorter life.

All brands are not the same quality. Stick to the major suppliers. GKN, FAG, NSK, Timken. There are lots of other engineering details like bearing class but outside the scope of this forum.

Buy from reputable suppliers and they should be taking care of the fitment details on your behalf.

Thanks; good info to know…