hello guys and gals

i have seen lots of ways to install a sub woofer in our cars, to include center consoles, digging out the foam block in the passenger side foot well, and off coarse a bazoka type tube. there are betters ways like one i thought of years ago and since my car has been sitting i have not done it, but i might and it is not much more to make more. what it is, is a grp speaker box in the exact shape of the foam block that can handle an eight or a ten. even though an eight is a better fit. it simply would replace the foam block perfectly and hid under the carpet.

i could even with some more work make a grp box that repicates the center section of the rear back pad to hold 2 sixes or fours that would be padded and would exept the stock vinyl or new vinyl. BTW there are some nice six subs out that do sound decent.

approx price range would be about 50 for the foot well as long as i had orders for 5 ( not payment ), and probably closer to 75 for the back pad version.

and to give an idea of my grp experance years and several hobbies ago i use to run remote control subs ( 2 to 9 foot ones ) and i did a run of 9 foot russian akula subs in epoxy and glass

just looking for some interest and some thing to help fund the suby conversion and take time due to lay off. and for the penny pinchers out there ( all of us ) i would make about 20 bucks each with an hour of work each

scott t

Scott, I am interested in the passenger floor mount box. There is another vendor who has a similar item listed in the Parts & Products pages, but his price is much higher.

Can you also make yours available with a sub woofer included? Actually I need an entirely new stereo system and want to be sure I get all the components to optimize each other.

Size of the foam footwell block is surprisingly small. You won't fit any decent sized 8" sub in that volume. You need to add 2" or 3" or even 4" to the depth in order to get a reasonable sized box.

Demick

your right it is small but there are many subs out that will fit and sound good, even a 10 but for a ten it would have to be vented there are good name brand 10 out that need as little as 3/4 of a cubic foot but i dont know how they sound, i personally would, for a 10, mount the speaker suppied by the person wanting it and tune it with a vent. but i would recommend an 8 for this i mocked it up and it fits.

time to go find a speaker that will fit for volumn and link it here

ps i do have steirio experance as well

here are a few speakers that will fit and are decent brand:
http://www.crutchfield.com/S-shE501JtaWl/c...75P18S4&g=67500
http://www.crutchfield.com/S-shE501JtaWl/c...7MM2084&g=67500
http://www.crutchfield.com/S-shE501JtaWl/c...67500&I=2063C84

above are all eights

here is an interesting 10 that would fit:
http://www.crutchfield.com/S-shE501JtaWl/c...2S10L52&g=67600

Go for it!

Here are some pics that were posted long ago of that type setup:

See the post by \"Bee Jay\"

The first sub is interesting. The manufacturer recommends only a 0.25 cu ft sealed box, which is about 9" X 9" X 6". The P18S4 is the recommended upgrade per crutchfield. It is a little more efficient, 84db vs. 83db, has a shorter mount distances, and has a bigger driver magnet.

I'd be in for one if you end up making them.

I am going to experiment with mine a little. I picked up a couple of 8" free air woofers and will be making a box to go along the front floorboard of the car in the front. Since they are free air woofers, I can have the whole top of the box vent into the upper dash area which should allow the airflow. We will see how it turns out.

I'd probably be interested as well, if you build 'em.

Doug C

This powered sub looks interesting for a 914. It just came out:
http://www.crutchfield.com/S-aayyer5SaIw/c...000&I=020SRV303

Yeah Guy, that may be the ticket for the 914, you could mount that thing behind the seat maybe or under the dash. Thanks for posting it, just wish I could afford it.

Doug C

There's one on eBay for $110. Refurbished but says it's guaranteed. Seller has a lot of feedback, only a few negative and those seem more buyers fault than anything else. I don't know... would like to hear one. I was thinking about buying pancake subs and building something inside my console. I'd rather just buy something already made though. Currently I have 6" Infinity speakers hidden in my door panels and I may use the stock speaker enclosures too. I don't want anything visible in the doors, console, or back panel.

All of the small powered subs including the tube types are much too expensive for
their performance. In my opinion, they all suck!

You are much better off building your own. You can stick a sub almost anywhere there
is unused space and it should sound fine. I prefer sealed enclosures overall because
they produce 'tight' sounding bass and don't have the air noise of ported enclosures.
Plus, they give the subs the highest power handling capabilities so you can feed them
all kinds of punishment and your subs won't bottom out.
They are also the easiest to build.

Pick the sub with the highest sensitivity, the highest power handling, and match it to
your enclosure volume as closely as possible. Feed them with a high quality amplifier
with a very low THD figure and at least the RMS wattage rating of the sub.

If a speaker has a sensitivity of 90db, then it puts out 90db with one watt measured at
either 1 foot or 1 meter (I think it's 1 foot). REMEMBER THE 3DB RULE as this will allow you to calculate how loud your speaker will be once it is installed in its proper enclosure size. In order to increase the volume 3db, you must double the wattage--and
this is why you picked the sub with the highest power handling. Therefore, you must give the speaker 2 watts to get 93db from a speaker with a sensitivity of 90db and so on...

4 watts=96db 8 watts=99db 16 watts=102db 32 watts=105db

64 watts=108db 128 watts=111db 256watts=114db

Wattage starts to get expensive real quick.
I've heard 130db is very painful.

Sesitivity is what you are talking about right? IIRC, it's one watt, at one meter, at 1000hz. So the speaker with the higher db output is, in theory, more efficient and should require less power.

The big BUT in this is how good does that speaker sound throughout the frequency range you want to reproduce. I've been out of sound reinforcement so long I don't know if there's new ratings for subwoofers, which would make sense. Why rate a speaker designed to operate at 250hz and below, at 1000hz?

Also not to forget is that frequencies below 250hz are non directional, so in theory you could put the sub anywhere (especially in the small cabin of a 914) and cross it over below 250.

I started working on the same thing about seven years ago, met my wife, started a family, remodeled a house, built three cars for other people, and never followed up on it. I did get a decent dual voice coil 8" sub though.

My plan was to make a fiberglass sub box where the foam foot rest goes, adding 2-4" of depth (which wouldn't be much of a loss for passenger foot room) for additional cu ft for the enclosure. Make some fiberglass mounts, which morphenspectra has exactly done, for the mids. Then put some good surface mount tweeters in the corners of the dash reflecting off the windshield. Which would make a nice three way system without hacking door panels, and could be removed from the car without a trace.

Good minds think alike eh???

Scott - Do you have any progress to report on the passenger side foot well sub woofer boxes?

starting the molds this weak after i clean up my storage.

if i go through with this be about 3 weeks till the first is ready