Hey guys its been a while since ive been on here. I havnt had a whole lot of motivation to work on my 72 914 . I'm wanting to remove the gas tank here soon and know how to do it. However im just curious of the various different ways much smarter members have to removing the tank. Plus im not trying to make a mess. Tank should be empty but is too rusted to be saved.

A screwdriver.




A big one for the top and a smaller one to get at the fuel line clamps underneath. If you have a front suspension pan, remove it and reach in the hole to access the fuel lines. Then pull the tank from above.

Sorry. You are the smartest member here.


Seriously, drain. Unscrew the strap. Pick it up using two people tilting it to get at and cut the lines.

Yeah, but the trick is getting to the moronically place fuel level sender plug. If it's an 70-74 tank, remove the two M6 bolts on either side. If it's a later tank, you have to pull the whole friggin filler neck.

Since it's an early tank, you got it easy.

moronically placed is right. At least they could have put a molex connector there.

Zach

One hint that I learned by experience: DO NOT use an incandescent work light with no bulb guard under a car when removing the gas tank.

I removed a tank that I SWORE was empty in the dark. After it covered me and all my tools in gas while under the car, I looked over and saw gas dripping right on the worklight. If it had popped, I would have been a human torch under the car.

Another good one - when the battery is in a race car right next to the fuel cell, disconnect the battery charger before topping off with race fuel. Dumping race fuel into a running battery charger = "not a good idea"....

The "Hibachi incident" is yet another story.....

Stu

I've yet to crawl under to remove a tank in either my early or late 914. Guess I'm just lazy. Siphon out as much as possible. Remove the strap, filler neck and vent hoses, remove rubber support horns from the sides, lift right side up enough to reach beneath the tank, remove hose clamps, lift tank with the right side elevated to prevent the remaining fuel in the tank from pouring out the openings. The first couple of times requires substantial cussing. After that it is a 20-30 min job.

If you're lucky, someone may have replaced those bottom fuel lines w longer ones, allowing you to pull the tank up and out pretty far, prop it securely, and reach down to cut or clamp/cut those hoses.

When you re-install, add the longer length hoses but be sure they coil properly w/o kinks when you lower the tank back in.

Credit this tip to McMark

If the clamps are properly positioned, the hoses can be removed from the two tank hard lines thru the hole under the tank that is accessed by removing the rack cover. A 7 mm gear wrench makes it easy. A hose that's to long is easy to kink when dropping the tank back in. I've replaced both hoses from the tank lines to the tunnel lines thru that hole. Just takes little patience

Why do you quote a previous post with no added comment? Am I missing something?

..I will not fight......I will not fight..I will not fight...I will not.............
HAPPY...THANKSGIVING....EVERYONE!!!!!!!!!!!!

Easy dude. Not trying to start a fight. I'm serious. I don't understand. Slpain please.

Drummer... what more do you need?

...Alright fellas, I perform that particular job the exact same way as "quote"
give or take a curse word....when I install a "quote" instead of a drawnout
explaination, I thought it would "go without saying"

"I too have never laid on my back to perform that job"
(sorry to disappoint you Cabinet man)

Well ok then. Using a quote means you agree with the qoutee. I'll try to remember that. I guess I'm just used to the smilies you like to use.

I must admit, I don't do it on my back either. I ue my lift.

Hope your not too disappointed.

Just happened to be into this on a 75-76 so thought I would post a pic to show original poster a pic of what I was describing. 74 and earlier will have different sizes hoses and a tad different routing is required.
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I wouldn't use those long self-tappers for the fuel pump. That looks like a disaster waiting to happen....Just IMO

^ yes! I agree with Eric, please trim those self tapers flush. or switch out with nuts and bolts. Round head inside.

I am also removing my tank this week, so this discussion is helpful.

They are there to stab any fricken mice that might choose that path. Eric, you have a 75-76. Check it out....plenty of room for the screws. The pump body is wider than the screws but thx for looking out for me.

I know the tank is out of the way Kent...but the hoses are right in there floating around. I am not knocking you bud, just looking out.

I use a an electric pump bought from FLAPS with hoses on both ends to empty the tank. Just stick the suction hose in the tank, and put the pressure hose in the filler of another car. Then connect the wires to the battery and wait until almost all the gas is out of the tank.

Then remove the overflow tank. Take the electrical off the sender, and disconnect the hold down strap. Then lift the tank, put the block under the edge of the tank and disconnect the hoses. You can use vacuum cap plugs to cap the fuel outlets so a lot of gas doesn't leak out.

"I too have never laid on my back to perform that job"

I was recanting fuel-tank removal safety stories just for safety's sake.

FWIW - the experience I explained above was with my 71 Karman-Ghia.
You have to remove the fuel drain fitting from the bottom before you can lift the tank.
There is even a maintenance hole if I remember correctly.

Sorry to start a .... whatever that was....

I have only taken tanks out of 914s, never replaced them...... ;-)
Stu