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Mockmaw
This is a long post. I hope it makes sense as I wrote it late last night..

Okay, I posted here about a week ago concerning my 72 1.7's engine failure. I've decided that I'm going to go forward with an engine rebuild. I plan on doing the rebuild myself (using our garage in San Diego and the aid of the local machine shop that we've been using for years.) I don't know the extent of the engine's damage, and I won't know until I've dropped the engine and taken it apart. I'm planning for the worst though, which means a complete rebuild.. I'm hoping that it won't be that bad and I may change steps if I find that some of my parts are still good (see below.)

I'm aiming for a larger displacement, carbed engine with aggressive cam. I've spent the last week or so doing research about the options for TIV rebuilds and what's involved in general engine rebuilds, including extensive reading of forum posts from here, the PP board, and shoptalk. I've also ordered two books which I've heard are excellent references the 'How to rebuild your aircooled VW' guide and the Dellorto tech book/reference.. I'm new to engine rebuilding, so I'm trying to learn as much as I can before I get my hands dirty (and start breaking stuff!)

I have several questions that I hope some of you could help me with (most of them are me asking about component X and you giving me anecdotal Y about your previous experience with it.) I recognize that a lot of what I may be asking has a certain "you find this information by spending years at the track" aspect to it, and I'm not asking anyone to divulge their voodoo secrets.. I'll just say that any assistance or guidance is greatly appreciated.

My choice of displacement is likely going to come down to the condition of my crank and rods (which are 66mm). If the crank and rods are in good condition (or at least good serviceable condition), I will likely stick with the 66mm rods.. I'll add 96mm pistons and depending on the condition of my current heads, either machine my current ones (if good) or purchase good condition ones to bore to 96mm. So the 66mm rods with 96mm P+C's should give me 1910cc's, correct?

If the crank is not in reusable condition than I'll acquire a set of 2.0 crank and rods (71mm), add 96mm P+C's and whatever headwork is necessary. This should give me the popular 2056cc displacement, correct?

My first problem: I don't know what to expect from each of the displacements/setups.. I've driven low-performance cars my whole life (nothing larger than the 96 2.0L Ford Probe and 97 2.0L Dodge Neon engines, my daily drivers since 16 include a 83 Volvo 240DL and a 86 Civic 1.5L FI.. Perhaps you can understand why I felt that the 1.7L 914 engine was quick!) Moving back on topic, I know that the 1910cc displacement is more of a 'stroker' engine, equating to higher revs (and more top-end power?) but with limited lower end torque. The 2056cc should be a more balanced engine. So some of my questions (and I realize how some of these may be 'unanswerable' without knowing all the other details of the engine..):

1. Will I obtain higher revs than the stock redline by going with the 96mm bore/66mm rods combination or just more power at the high end?

2. If I go with the 1910cc, will I have reduced torque as compared to engines with a more 'balanced' bore to crank ratio?

3. Now the broad question: What kind of performance difference will I see between the rebuilt 2056cc and 1910cc assuming all other components are the same?

4. Even more difficult: what kind of relative performance difference will I see between my old 1.7 (which is difficult to analyze since I know it's a tired engine) to the 2056 and 1910?

5. Is it worth it to even consider the 1910 displacement? It seems like such a rare combination compared to the 2056, a common displacement when people do upgrades/rebuilds for 914's. The 1910 does seem more common in the VW world, though.

6. Is there a displacement combination that I'm missing which I should be considering?

Two: I will be converting the car to carbs as I want to run a more aggressive cam, likely the webcam 86a (and I'm getting tired of fuel injection issues.. especially the increasing cost associated with FI components.) There's a lot of controversy associated with sizing carbs to engine displacement, and perhaps even more in which carb setup to go with. I've seen many recommendations for the Dellorto tech reference, so I'm hoping that will give me some answers, but I'd like to ask here:

1. Sounds like most people prefer the Dellortos to the Webers (including Jake Raby, who's engine building judgment I certainly trust), but I haven't seen a post on any forum explaining why. Can anyone provide pros and cons to the dellortos over the webers?

2. As for sizing, I've found the general rule to be: Weber 36 for 1.7/1.8, Weber 40 for 2.0, Weber 44 for 2.2, Weber 48 for 2.4+ (with Dellorto being one size down in all cases.) Is this a good rule to follow? Unfortunately, the displacements I'm looking at lie somewhere in the middle of these marks.. is it better to go larger or smaller in the case of the 1910cc and the 2056cc?

3. I've heard mixed opinions about purchasing carbs used (taking into account the fact that Dellorto DRLA's aren't even made anymore.) Is it 'okay' to purchase and use used carbs? When are rebuilds necessary? Any qualities that I should particularly look for to avoid bad used carbs?

Three: For the ignition, I'm looking at a Mallory Distributor with Vac. Advance combined with a Mallory HyFire VI. I've heard so many good things about the Mallory (especially coming from Jake) that it seems foolish to not go with it. Are there any reasons why I should not go with this setup? I recognize that it is fairly costly though, so I want to ask: how will the dizzy from my 1.7 handle in the 1910 or 2056?

Four: Sounds like the webcam 86a is the cam to go with for this application, any other recommendations or reasons I should not go with this cam?

I realize I may be leaving out quite a bit, but those are all the questions I can think of right now. Any and all help is sincerely appreciated!
anthony
I don't think I'd mess around with building a 1911. I say that because the rebuilding cost will be the same whether you build a 2056 or a 1911.

Personally, I'd buy a complete running 2L engine from someone doing a six conversion. I'd get it running and go from there - maybe rebuild it to 2056 specs or just drive it.

The other way to go is to find some 2L heads an a 2L crank and rods and then build what you got into a 2056. The 2L heads flow much better than the 1.7L heads. I think you need 2L engine tin and maybe some other stuff too.
anthony
I have a related question for the experts about what a 914 with a 120hp 2056 is like. I think I'll start a separate topic.
Bleyseng
Ok, I take a crack at this.
1. The valve train is the limiting factor in these engines and over 6500rpms the lack of counterweighted crank.
2. Yes, you will have less torque compared to a 2.0L
3. The 2056 will have more power and torque than the 1910 due to the longer stroke. How does it feel? Hmm, just somewhat more umph when you step on the petal.
4. Tough question- The only 1910 motor I have driven had the FI still on it so it felt great, with lots of torque. It rev'd nicely too. I have the only 2056 I have driven and it outperforms the 1910 in power.
5. I think the 1910 is a great motor to build if you are going to keep the FI. If you are going to carbs go to the 2056. You can locate a crank for less than $100 (I have one) and rebuilt rods for $90. If you use you 1.7 heads you can use you tin too.
6. I think a 3.2 six is a nice size.
Part 2- I am a FI man so....I won't comment.
Geoff
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