ok...got my 74 2.0L running "well" with my 34ICT's (and 009 dizzy). But yes, it has limited advance.
so going to try the original dizzy in there.
questions about the vacuum unit. hook up the advance port on the vacuum unit to the port on the carb shown with the red arrow below???????

....and just plug the retard port on the vacuum unit???
any suggestions welcomed!

Yup.

If you still have the stock dizzy you may want to try it. It has a better advance curve than the 009. When I used the 009 I set the total advance at 30 deg.

thanks Joe...definitely the direction I'm going in. The 009 just flattens out between 3,000 and 3,500 rpms. My 011 from the '74 was a little toasty, looking for a replacement in the classifieds now.

Ray,

Go look at Aircooled.net
The SVDA distributor is a great setup for the money...
Also, look at the tech article associated with that distributor.
It talks about vacuum, with alot of decent details to help you choose the best location for your vacuum tap (above or below the throttle plate)

rich

thanks rich...good idea. by the time I could refurbish a 011 or buy a good used one, maybe better money spent on a SVDA dizzy from aircooled.

aircooled.net response to my request for info on the SVDA distributor:
it's a great distributor, but won't achieve better acceleration after 3krpms than a PROPERLY working 009. The main SVDA advantage is light throttle (cruise).
you don't need anything, unless you are at light throttle.

if it stops pulling it sounds like a carb problem.
but it will fit your engine and is far nicer than the 009.

so...I guess I'll still pursue the 011

::UPDATE::

Got the car running great with a 011 distributor (purchase from dANNY hUNter )
Able to time it properly with the cool accelerator bracket from ThePaintedMan (George)

So timing and dwell where it should be.

Excellent pick up off the line. Good advance thru high rpms.

Getting some grumbling/mild-backfire/stumbling thru the carb(s) at full load.
This is new. Didn't happen with the 009...but probably wasn't getting full throttle and same performance at the high end.

Played with the mixture screw(s) some and now it's negligible.

Learning about carbs, so every move/adjustment is a new experience.

question...what would make the carbs stumble/grumble at full load????
any advice is welcome

Good thread. Please keep it updated as you continue to figure things out.

I had often wondered if single 34ict's would perform decently on a type IV, but don't recall seeing anyone give it a try.

My thought for down the road was a budget rebuild of a 1.7 or 1.8 and a mild cam with 34's to keep the car on the road while building a bigger engine with a 2.0 core. Still need to get it on the road first, of course.

What does the timing look like at full throttle?
A) is it consistant? Use a light, and a dwell meter to see if its steady
b) is it to far advanced or not enough?

If you have a wavering timing and dwell at full throttle, its back to the distributor.
Elec points will solve this problem because they use an optical sensor that does not get effected by a wobbly distributor shaft.

Also, what type of rotor are you using?
Rev limiting rotors can act funky at higher rpms...try another rotor.

Finally, bucking at WOT may be a lean condition due to air getting in via the manifolds, heads etc....spray some unlighted propane around the joints while it running...you will hear the difference.
You can also use carb cleaner or ether...or water...
Anything that can be misted will change the tone when it gets sucked into a crack.

You may need to choose a compromise to get it right.
I would suggest you stay under 30 degrees full advance.

Rich

Tomlinson's Weber manual from CB performance has a good section on the 34s. great cut aways, functionality and if you are going the carb route you should purchase one if you don't have one yet.

...thanks Rich. You certainly got me thinking about the distributor's "sealing ring". I replaced the one that came with it, couldn't get dam thing back in. Put a good older one on and it slipped right in. Having a hard time finding new ones on line. I guess I have to go thru Porsche?
also, this is a low budget project..not wanting to spend too much cash on pertronic or similar. Maybe once driving it for some time and the engine holding up well, I'll start to add more stuff.

and you made another excellent point without being there. I really advance the timing according to a tech article on the Pelican board. I might have been a little over zealous with advancing. Maybe back it down to below 30 degress.

it's not bucking at full throttle, just get a little throaty. Could hear of feel it behave differently or not the way it should.

it's a world of difference with my mediocre linkage and stock dizzy...from where I was with the single progressive carb and the 009.
I get that "yeeehaaaw" feeling when I'm driving it around my neighborhood.

now I just have to buckle down and finish all the paper work for the title... I think it would be easier to title a stolen Honda Civic and make it a daily driver

I purchased a manual...not sure if that one...didn't notice a trouble shooting section. I'll check it out tonight.

Ray,
Glad to hear you were able to get the bracket to work! I'm not going to weigh in on the carb thing since I'm still learning to tune them myself. But Rich's suggestions seem like they will help me too. Rich, I have two distributors and though my car is running much better after playing around with the carbs (twin Weber 40 IDFs) and swapping dizzys, its still not quite right. I noticed that when trying to time the car, around 3,000 RPM it becomes difficult to see the timing mark on the fan because it gets "blurry." Is this an indicator of what you're talking about with the shaft wobbling? As in, at 3,400 RPMs should the timing marks be clearly visible, as if it were stationary? I also occasionally get a lean "pop" from both banks, but seemingly randomly. It happens more often when cruising at light throttle. I do also get some bucking under load. I have checked both intakes and carbs for leaks but have not checked the heads with carb spray/ether. Are you suggesting that there is possibly air leaking into the chamber at the head junction? Is it safe to spray cleaner around this area while the engine is running? I would think thats a recipe for fire...

Also, if there is indeed a leak at the head, I heard from someone at a car show that sometimes re-torquing the heads can solve that, rather than pulling them off the car. What do you think?

Good luck Ray, glad everything is working out for ya.

Ray,

I have a brand new Mallory Electronic (Tangerine Racing) Distributor that I do not need yet. I would be glad to loan it to you if you want to give it a try.

John

Umm, fix that.
27 Degrees is the max for longevity....30 is the max for some people (so I have heard)



Maybe you are hearing what dual carbs are supposed to sound like?
When they change from the primary idle circuit to the secondary main circuit (about 2000-2500 RPM's) depending upon the carb....
It will buck, it might feel wierd and hesitate.

This is the reason some people like weber/solex/dells and have strong opinions on them.

The transition circuits can be fooled with the emulsion tubes on dual 40mm IDF carbs...there is a fix for IDA carbs also.
I have no idea how to smooth it out with your carbs, but I suspect either the Cap'n or some Samba bus people might know those carbs and how to tune them.

I would suggest you get the timing right first...then let it warm up alot...then try it.
Carbs will buck until warm...nature of the beast.

One common way to get over the hesitation from carbs is drive it binary....on and off.
Floor it, then dont when shifting...
Its that normal area from 2000 rpms to a rapid acceleration that will amplify the issue.

rich

I recall a guy here who had the same setup you had...it was in one of our MPG threads.

He got great mileage and learned alot about how to tune the carbs.

Maybe change the title of the thread to Dual Weber 34 tuning....

He is out there somewhere.
Search that MPG thread, it may have been mine, I was shooting for 40mpg but never got there...got close though.

Rich

that would be very cool....it would certainly generate some good info for the site as far as carb tuning and what's workin'!

I'll send you a PM

it was probably Ryan...from NY. He just got married and moved south...probably see him at Hershey. I went on a drive with him once and his 1.8L with the dual 34icts performed pretty dam good.

I'll dig up the old thread.

George....like you had mentioned. A little bend here and there and it lined up perfectly. I might add a bracket to sturdy it up some, but for now it was the solution!~!

...check your schedule, next time your heading south, stop by and get your hands dirty and we'll test it out.

I'll provide dinner, beverages and I'm sure a bunch more local 914ers will join in.

With the two - one barrel carb set up , try this . At idle try pulling the plug wires off one at a time. You will probably find that two of the cylinders are not fireing at idle. To fix this you must install an equealizer hose between the manifolds. Been there, try it and get back.

I definitely test the plugs that way yesterday at idle. All new plugs firing fine. Intestine solution though?? Need to hear more about that to understand.

Have you played around with jet changes at all?

I put dual 34 ICTs on my 73 2.0 a couple of years ago and, after a few jet changes, got things to run quite well. I'm using the stock dizzy.

Chris

I did experiment with different size jets. So much so I can't recall off hand whats in there now. I should document

Good. Glad you've played with the jets.

I found that the the stock jets left things way underfueled (super lean).

Have you verified that the carbs are synchronized?

Also, clean all the jets and passages.



KT

Also, I used a pair of Weber 34's on my 2110cc Bug motor way back when, with a 009 dizzy.

Was fantastic!


KT

Yes...good friend Rory helped me with the synchronization.
Certainly have a lot to learn or get better at.......

umm, you need to know the jets you have to start with...then you can tune them.

A stutter may be to large of an air correction jet.

rich