I'll start by saying I don't put much effort into setup since many
years ago. But, gotta find out why the last autocross I was mostly
lighting up my right front.

Areas of interest I think:
Brakes
Shocks
Corner weights

Background:
914-6
front = 21mm torsion bar, koni adj (full soft), small sway bar almost full soft
rear = 180lb spring, bilstein non-adj, no rear bar
tires = kumho 215/40/16 all around

I checked on the street with the street tires and it still will lock up the
right front first, if I let go of the wheel it pulls left.

I quickly put the front on the scales with and without sway bar connected
and didn't get significant change from what it was years ago. I'm
reading about 590LF 535RF with driver weight. Had about 50 pounds
difference back when corners were really set, back in the day.

Should I try bleeding the brakes?

Koni adjustables are 10 years old, should I find someone with a shock
dyno?

Thanks,
Mark S.

Were the tire pressures all the same?
Had the car been sitting for some time?
Have you checked your pads/rotors for uneven wear, rust or lack of pad?

Had a brake bias valve been installed that might be dialed in way to much toward the front?

If everything is equal, i.e., brakes blead, tire pressures, pads, rotors and corner weights then you could have a bad caliper. Have Eric rebuild all of them and I'll bet the problem goes away.

BTW the only way I got my fronts to stop locking up with slicks, although both of mine would lock at the same time, was to change to a less agressive pad in the front. That little trick worked great.

Tire pressures always kept the same at autocross. I haven't looked
really close at the brakes, but unrelated to this Eric made an offer I
couldn't refuse and soon everything down to the spindle will be new.

It has an aftermarket dial brake bias, but it hasn't changed in a long
time and both fronts should be equal.

The car doesn't sit for very long in the driving season, I drive it on the
street also.

Sounds like the RF caliper is doing most of the work.

Consider a front caliper rebuild both L and R.


KT

It should be pretty easy to test the calipers for a sticking piston.
You just need someone to press the pedal while you make sure the pads move freely until the brakes are applied.
In fact, if you find a torn boot it will probably be that piston which is hanging up.

Its easy to test the strut inserts without a shock dyno.
It won't tell you what the damping rate is but will tell you if the shock is damaged.
Simply remove the the top from the camber plate and pull out of the fender well so you can pull on the shaft with the insert still held in the strut.
The resistance should be uniform for the entire stroke with no dead spots where the piston moves too easily, or hard spots where the piston hardly moves.
If you see oily dirt stuck to the strut before disassembly you can expect the shock to be bad.
We've thrown out quite a few old Konis recently.

By all means. bleed em'. Often the locker isn't the problem but the other side. Air in that line will cause that problem....BTDT.
I used S calipers and getting them bled took a couple tries......then again a week or 2 later.

Thanks for the tips, all. With weather and other commitments it may be
march before this gets proved one way or another.