i had thought that yesterday would be nice day to press a piston back into the caliper and reset the venting, do a little brake bleeding, and be done with it. such naivete must amuse you gurus out there...

anyway, Dino (dinomium) came over to assist and act as technical consultant . i plied him with salami and goat cheese on garlic bread sandwiches (alas, i could not offer him a brew), coffee, and we got started. all went according to expectations; piston went back in smoothly , etc. then came time to adjust venting. Dino pressed on the brake. the pistons actuated. Dino released pressure on the brakes. and the pistons stayed right where they were . rotor no move no more. then that little ray of sunshine that is Dino says, "hmm, it's time for a caliper rebuild." i think i heard thunder punctuating his statement.

so, rear caliper rebuilds are in my immeadiate future. i will, when the time comes, be requesting input. and while i am in there, maybe i can do a couple other things...

Before I fixed mine I got back from a night ride to see my rear rotor cherry red. Wicked looking. Still used same rotor lack of $ no vibration.

so what does the caliper rebuild kit run?

kevin

I need to do this too, Looks like pp has 'em for $20.95

How hard of as job is this?

Dont be too quick to blame the caliper. Once I had a e-brake stick "on" even when released due to engine heat or corrosion inside the cable(s). Check if the pivot is all the way to the "off" position.

I've also had the rubber brake line at the caliper go bad. When this happens you will be able to apply the brake due to the high pressure inside the line. But internally the line is swelled shut and wont relieve the pressure from the caliper and it stays clamped. Both my cars havehad the rubber lines go bad. Those things are too cheap not to replace, if you havent alreeady.

If you've been diriving it this way for a while you may well have bad caliper seals if you didn't already. Use the vent adjustment screws to back the pisons out of the calipers. May need to use some air pressure the towards the end. I used a bike pump. Put something between the caliper - those pisons will pop out like a cannon. Good luck.

the rubber brake lines were replaced a year ago. this is a recurring problem, and this time the temp fix didn't fix it.

Kevin, as for cost, i searched the BBS/forum/garage and found Perry at 914 Networks who has a complete kit for about 28 before shipping. there seems to be concern among the intelligensia that some of the parts house kits don't have enough stuff. for me, the cost isn't so high that i have to shop around that much; completeness is the deal. but i am still researching.

as for taking care upon removing the pistons, Dino has drilled it into my head to take care of them. he makes me put a strip of wood between the c-clamp and the piston and such things.

thanks for the input. i will no doubt be asking more questions in the days/weeks to come, but only if i can't research the answer. and newbies out there, take note of the favorable response my queries get. this is a good place for information and support. and you meet good people here, in spite of the names they call each other sometimes!

call southside brake and clutch. spend a bit more money and drive your car.

kevin

Kevin, that would be the smart thing to do. there are a couple hitches in your proposal, however. first, how do i get the car down there? the rear caliper is now pretty well stuck. then there is the fact that i do not always do the smart thing. that may be the biggest hitch.

it is good to know of a good shop for when i need it, however. your recommendation carries weight. thanks!

by the way, how is your garden looking as we enter autumn?

take the caliper, not the car. it's a supply outfit not a service shop. my prime tool these days is a rake.

kevin

ooohhh, that makes sense. i will look them up.

i figured you might be doing a bit of raking. i should do the same as well as cut the grass. too bad whenever i have the time lately it has been raining. yeah, too bad...