Ok, I'll start a thread and post as I go this winter.

Today I got it up on stands and pulled the rockers.

Long look OK. I knew the drivers jack plate was toast.

Take a look at these pictures and let me know if this will be worse to fix than I think....

Here is worst jack plate

Straight on view - passenger side

drivers side

Floors

doesn't look too bad on the pics
did you poke at it with a screwdriver? Is it still solid, or can you poke through it?
get a wirebrush drillbit and clean it up, before you start cutting...

ok other close up was pass side

'LOOKS' pretty damn good!

The one that says passenger side looks like the driver's side to me.

all the longs were driver's side

here is pass side

that doesn't look bad at all. If it was like mine, the outside "cup" was soft but solid behind it...got a replacement piece from restoration design and had it installed...good as new!

ear looks perfect

Yes, I bought a Jack plate and tube from Brad M. (914ltd) knowing the drivers side was not good. I am hoping to have good metal under it.

Are these spot welded on too?

Not a bad day one if I do say so.

Not a bad day 1 at all, that looks pretty easy to fix in my opinion. I have seen worse cars out here in Calirfornia where they say the cars dont rust out. You could fix that over a weekend if you had the parts. Good luck with it.

I would be more worried about the bottom of the drivers side door...

Pretty easy fix. Looks like a good solid tub to me. Floorpans appear to be solid.


B

Well, just finished pulling front and rear bumpers and valances. done for tonight.

I'll start on front suspension first. Drop stearing rack cover, pull fuel pump, drain last 3-5 gallons of gas. Pull tank. Clean off loose rust, por 15, re-paint blue. clean tap all holes. then....


Install front swaybar, new bushings, new ball joints, front shocks and maybe turbo tie rods . That will get me into early December.

I wish I could do this for living, way more fun than working for Motorola. Its' good to have things to fall back on in this economy.

Tonight's work

Pulled front suspension

another view

Clean up surface rust doors forward is next

Looks like a nice tub to me. A nice steady pace will get you there.

Will, this scares me. You're not getting much surface area contact. That thing looks like it will spin real easily. I haven't tried this, but if you drilled a 2" hole, or 2 1" holes to match the contour of your jackstands it may get a bit more bit and not move. Sorry to but in, but I want to see you again at next year's FFC or MWC.

oh yeeah

heh

m

yep
it is really sitting on only 3 stands, the one you marked is not touching. I put my jacks under the longs last night when I was popping ball joints, etc.

plan is,
clean surface rust
Touch up paint (this is all inside and underneath)
Put front suspension back on
Put front end back on ramps

then pull motor and work on bake end stuff.

Very good looking undersides.
That'll be a muchhhhh easier fix than a lot of us around here have been used to.
Ron

Took my body saw to the left jack post support. I plan to replace bottom half only.

If I clean this up, Por15 and weld on the new piece I think it will last another 30 years (no winters and little to not rain days)

What do you all think?

another angle

Check out how clean the torsion bars came out. is this normal?

Look how front arm rear bushings sagged!

This is right side

Will,
Before anybody makes any comments on your jackposts, the metal needs to be ground clean before a true and accurate conclusion can be made....
Just my .0002...
Thom

Left (drivers) side

Front front looked fine

Thanks for the pictures. This is exactly where I was about 1 year ago. Pulled a running 914 into the garage and began the same process. Problem was I couldn't stop. Now I have just (almost exactly one year later) brought the media blasted and primed tub home to continue the effort. I really want to finish the body and get the suspension back on the car this winter. This means installing the brake lines, fuel lines and wiring harness first. If you are going to keep the car on jack stands for long, I recommend 2x8s as they provide a great deal more support and height. I ran them completely across the the car at three points. Keep em coming. I feel like we are comrades in this effort. My torsion bars looked just like yours, except almost no grease.

Plan is to get the jack post rust in check.

Clean up treat and prep surface rust. cover in blue

then all mechanical - back to near new

That will give me time to get back to full chassie restoration in a year or two.


Lynne is working tomorrow night, I plan to spend whatever it takes to get the one jack post ready. I'll get you those bare metal photos tomorrow.

Anyone want to come and help?

I would but my weekend in booked. Nothing like learing how to do something on some elses car

Seriously, the week on Thanksgiving is open for me. If you need help let me know.

-Garold

Looks great Will! I see mostly surface rust, easy fixes. Like most have already said, get rid of the rust and poke with a screw driver to make sure things are solid. If you are solid, most of it can probably just be cleaned up and painted. POR-15 rocks. I bought a quart and didn't use all of it. If you put the lid back on, use a plastic bag (Keeps lid from sticking to can) and stick it in the fridge. It will last longer. I didn't do that to mine. Now I can't get the can open!

Well
Dug into left jack point today. metal is layered there??? looks like long goes behind the rear sub-frame???

Top layer is rusted through in spots. Clean solid metal all the way around where the jack post support was spot welded to the subframe.

Surface rust cleaned up well under the long/subframe.

If I weld this 1/2 post support in, will that be good enough? What is top layer here, the rear sub-frame? what bits would I need to patch in clean metal here??

Take a look at these pictures...

another view

If I por15 it and weld this piece in....

Lazy today, Bears WON

I drained and pulled gas tank. pulling petals is next. Everything looks good (no real rust) couple of little spots where tank rubbed and I have surface rust.

Today's pictures

while the tank s out..put a swaybar in. you wont regret it!

picture 2

I'll install fuel lines and sway bar before tank goes back in.

Offense? We don need no stinking offense.


GO BEARS!!!!!!!!

Lookin' good. . . .

Wayne (type47fan)

I have wesminster (Spelling) 19 mm from classifides and new bushings for it from PP.

Ball joints and turbo tier rods are ordered.

Need to get new front shocks..

Steering rack has little leak, is this an issue?

little rust here to clean up

anyone use this template?

thats the one i used....

worked well. i have a 23 mm bar, had to move it down a few mm to clear the gas tank

Template looks a little too simple "1/2" from stamping lip.

Is there no better way to locate this? Sorry when I industrial pump mechanic we worked in 1/10,000's

just measure down 1/2"

Gotta be a better way

I drilled pass side twice.

Anybody got a project with the swaybar removed that might be able to get Will a more exact measurement and possible picture/template?

Wayne (type47fan)

the important thing (I think) is to make sure they are the same on both sides. Make yourself a little template and it's easy...I mean something that fits in the recess...I know I'm not clear, just keep both sides the same. If you don't adjustable droplinks should clear up the problem if it's not too bad. right?

If you are going to do anything to the master cylinder, I'd suggest that you hit the brake line fittings with a wire brush and some PB Rustblaster or Liquid wrench. Give it a few days and hit it again.

What sort of tool are you using to remove the surface rust, a hard wheel? It looks too coarse to me, and it also looks like you've overheated the metal (the blue parts) when you ground it, which can cause problems in the future. Get a 3M Roloc holder and some 3M Bristle discs, they won't burn the metal and do a great job.

Overall, you seem to have a fine chassis, that most salt belt 914'ers would love to have.

I used to live in Elgin, IL and actually drove a 914 in the winter, back in '78 that is. Great handling car for snowy/icy roads, but I cringe when I think about all that salt