Okay so I brought it in to the shop and they did a once-over and were very nice. I got a quote for the following work:

Drop engine and repair oil leak on oil cooler-$495
Repair front shock assembly where it has backed off up top-$525
Replace/relocate fuel filter-$150

I dont think the estimate is crazy high but I really think I can do the majority of this myself and what better way to start learning that diving in right? Besides I just ordered my Haynes manual. When he got me under the car it is really not that complicated of a set-up (first time I have really seen underside of car).

Any feedback is appreciated

On another note, I am still unable to get into the trunk. The latch just doesnt seem to catch the release. I can turn the key and press it but still nothing. Anyone got any ideas on this?

Unknown in US prices but this seems not really cheap.

Push down on the trunk lid as you push the button. sometimes you can get lucky and it will open. The Haynes manual is a good start. There are other how-to books out there. Do a search for Porsche 914 repair manuals. This web site is a great resource. Read the Haynes manual. Ask questions. Buy some good jack stands. Buy some good safe ones 'cause chances are the car will be sitting on them for some time. This is a relatively easy car to maintane and you can save yourself some $ if you can do it yourself. Besides, there are some sicko's on this site that actually think working on these cars is fun.

....Yeah, that shop is looking for an all day sucker!

You can replace the oil cooler seals without dropping the engine. It's a 1/3 hours job

Does the oil cooler leak or are the seals leaking? You can replace the seals with the motor in the car, but it's a bit of a pia. Fuel lines and filter you can do yourself. What year car and motor? FI or carb? Get another estimate or two if you can. Maybe an old time VW shop can help.

Learn to do it yourself after reading the manuals. You may want to also consider getting some nice ramps as you may not need to jack the car up for some of these services, and the ramps aren't going to fall over accidentally.

Better learn to do it yourself or you will hate the car in the long run.
What does this mean? Repair front shock assembly where it has backed off up top-$525. What ever it is it should never cost that much.
Maybe someone is close to you will join in.

Pelican parts for photo thread on seals. Took me hour first time and not hard.
Dozens of threads and photos here on fuel pump.

For the asking price, you can do it yourself and keep the tools for other future projects. Im a raw nebie to this car and was able to do everything you mentioned by myself, this forum and manual. If you have machanical skills, working on this car is easy. Engine, tranny is the biggest challange. Pelican articles are a big aid.

I wouldn't go driving it around with a loose top shock nut. Easy repair though. None of it technically difficult. Do it!

Except for rust and bodywork these cars are super easy to work on. Back in 78 I bought my first 914 and fixed everything on it myself with just a Haynes manual. There was no internet back then and it was the first car I ever worked on.

That price should include 2 new shocks. It literally takes less than 15 minutes to tighten the nut on the shock tube.

The Cap'n

Earlier you posted that the local tire shop wanted +$20 to mount and balance each tire?
Now this?
Spend your money on some tools, good jack stands, and stay away from whomever quoted those costs!

I would be more concerned if your 914 was NOT leaking oil somewhere

Read the Book, Buy Beer & invite some Porsche Friends over - job done!

Thanks to everyone for the encouragement. I have been working on cars my whole life but this is my first German car, let alone Porsche. I guess I was feeling a bit intimidated.

I went ahead and pulled the car from the shop and rented some good work space here in town (only $100/month for 10x20). Unfortunately a good covered work area is a rare commodity here in NOLA.

I now have my tools and everything set up and I am ready to go.

As far as the car as I am able to tell, the car is fairly rust free coming from Nevada. The only problem is of course the hell hole. I assumed it was much better initially when looking from the top but it turns out that it didnt do much but a small hole in the engine compartment. Unfortunately it destroyed everything under that including the longitudinal but I have a good welder that already offered his services if I do all the prep work of course (are you guys buying the repair kits from Pelican?). Other than that, the thing is almost rust free.

Other problems I can see are of course the front end (any links on tightening those bolts and fixing that problem are appreciated as Im trying to fix that today), the oil cooler (I am waiting on my Haynes to tackle that one), the fuel pump issue (I see a bunch of fuel pump options on Ebay but not sure what you guys are using or where you are getting stuff like that), the trunk which I still have no idea how I plan to get into that (I cant wait to find out whats in there), the engine mounts are mashed from someone hitting something underneath and bending the bolts on the bar across the bottom (I think this is called the engine bar).

The carburetor works just fine although it appears to be a carb out of a Toyota 22r. Here is a link. I have attached pics. I am sure I will eventually put Webers but for now it is actually kinda neat.

Anyways, any help is always appreciated as well as encouragement.

Click to view attachment
Click to view attachment
Click to view attachment

Well, at least the Toyota Carb is a step up from the Pinto Carb normally used.

As a core supplier, we call that Toyota a "22R with spring". Regardless, it is a progressive 2 barrel carb..... small primary bore with larger secondary bore.

Do you have any idea where I can get an air filter assembly that would fit that and also be low enough profile for cover to close?

you lost me when you posted the carb pic.

Get the car fixed, learn how to do it and save your money for a set of dual carbs or the stock fuel injection.

rich

Somebody must help this poor 914

In my experience, 20 bucks per tire is pretty typical (some places charge that even when buy the tires there)

The stock Toyota Pickup Air Filter assembly is pretty low ... if I can find one, I will measure it.

Otherwise, many aftermarket air filters can be fitted.

R&R the motor does not seem outrageous for US prices.

I personally, would buy the book, read, read more, buy appropriate tools to do it myself.

Thats how I started way back in the early 80's. Quoted $450 for a clutch job...

Struts are easy

Oil leak, is a fairly simple fix...

Relocating fuel pump, really depends on if you have steel fuel lines or not.

What is your skill and tool level?

Do you own a floor jack and Jack Stands?
Do you own metric wrences and sockets?
Can you do your own brake job?
Do you have garage space to work on the car?

If so, you can do the work yourself

Here's the second 914 bible. Note changing oil cooler seals.
http://www.pelicanparts.com/914/914tech_articles.htm

Well I managed to fix the front suspension. It wasnt too bad just a bit of a learning curve but I think I could tighten them up in about 15 minutes if they backed out again. Well that saved me enough to pay for some dual Webers (I rationalize well ) Just imagine what other purchases I can rationalize when I fix the oil leak and fuel pump on my own.

BTW, anyone have suggestion on fuel pump for carburetor setup? I see several on ebay but I am finding you guys dont really care for that place.

eBay is just fine ...

Fuel pump for Carbs ...

FACET clicker

Pep Boys electric

Carter Rotary

Any lo pressure 2 - 5 psig will do fine.

Is there a relay setup for the fuel pump that primes then shuts off until the engine is started? My fuel pump is wired straight and just comes on and stays on?

Get the rotary fuel pump. Facets are loud. I got mine from CB Performance.

If you have an oil temp gauge. Look at the sender for leaks. It comes out in the same spot as the oil cooler.

You are referring to the Carter Rotary? The reviews of that one seem to indicate it is the best and for only $25 more.

Carter is a brand, rotary is a functional operation type. I bought this one and it's been going great for 5 years plus. And it's quiet. This is a rotary pump.

http://www.cbperformance.com/ProductDetail...roductCode=3193

I wish I weren't 7 hours away, I'd come spend a couple of days helping just for the shrimp alone. How far are you from Mobile, Al, I have a friend there who might come and help.

Mobile is about 2 hrs away. I am hoping to run across some Porsche people here sooner or later but I havent as of yet. I think once I get it going and hit a few events I may meet a couple people. A shop I deal with for work knows a retired guy that I may try to get in touch with. I figure for something I am hesitant to tackle alone he may be willing to take some money and beer in exchange for helping me out.

Yesterday I had a Ford guy helping me and I think he really enjoyed it. He already offered to come help again Friday. His only complaint was getting in and out of the car (he is a couple inches over 6 ft)

Forget the Shrimp & get the Crawfish!

Yeah well its just about that time of year too! I am actually from Lafayette originally which is real cajun country! New Orleans has some good food, dont get me wrong, but for the most part it is primarily built on creole influence and not cajun. For instance, if you've ever have red sauce in your jambalaya, it wasnt cajun.

Ha ha ha, the cajun-creole discussion. For all you folks outside the bayous it doesn't matter, they're BOTH good. Except at Red Lobster or some place like that.

Hahaha, you must be from around here or at least spent some time around here. This is a SERIOUS discussion!