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ThePaintedMan
Just a quick question, is it possible, or recommended to resurface/reshape the valve lash adjuster screws while doing a valve adjustment? I.e. restore the "dome" to the tips of them and get rid of any pitting. If I remember when doing my pushrod tube seal replacement, some of them were lightly pitted and I thought about doing it then. What is the going rate for new screws now?
SLITS
Just buy new ones

and

I will actually give you a reason ....

While I am not positive, the ends are hardened just like the top of a valve stem. Once you grind them, you get into softer metal and they will mushroom. On valves, they make hardened lash caps. I haven't heard of anyone making hardened adjustor caps.
brp986s
QUOTE(SLITS @ Dec 19 2012, 12:23 PM) *

Just buy new ones

and

I will actually give you a reason ....

While I am not positive, the ends are hardened just like the top of a valve stem. Once you grind them, you get into softer metal and they will mushroom. On valves, they make hardened lash caps. I haven't heard of anyone making hardened adjustor caps.


Last I checked they were like $35/ea new from Porsche. Perf. Products used to sell some worthless crap repros, or maybe still do.
reharvey
Most of the repros will mushroom over on the tip within a few hundred miles. Be careful where you buy these. The OEM German have worked well for me.
SLITS
From Pelican Parts:

8 mm ..... $4.00 each

10 mm .... $8.60 each

911 Elephant Feet ..... $22.75 each
ThePaintedMan
Tip of the hat guys. I knew the consequences of using cheap repos from searches and reading past threads. I had considered what SLITS had mentioned as well - the ends might be hardened while the centers may not.

That being said, are the ones Pelican sells the "cheapies"? Any risk in using those?
ottox914
Just buy the good ones and do the job once. But you were already thinking that, right?
ThePaintedMan
QUOTE(ottox914 @ Dec 19 2012, 05:00 PM) *

Just buy the good ones and do the job once. But you were already thinking that, right?


Right. But it was mostly curiosity since it did not seem all that difficult to reshape them. Just wondered why no one else ever did it, or why I didn't hear about it. Theres a lot of things I have heard about with these engines, tips and tricks to renew old parts, you know?

I guess the only other reasoning is that I'm not sure how much more life this engine has left in it. I'm almost positive its original, and have no indication that it has ever been rebuilt. The compression seemed low last time I checked and I'm still not sure if I have a burned valve or two. Some days it runs great, others not so much. Figured why throw a bunch of new parts on an old engine, when it will need to be rebuilt/swapped at some point anyway.
SLITS
You can also post a WTB for some used ones in good shape ya know!
Cap'n Krusty
QUOTE(ThePaintedMan @ Dec 19 2012, 01:54 PM) *

Tip of the hat guys. I knew the consequences of using cheap repos from searches and reading past threads. I had considered what SLITS had mentioned as well - the ends might be hardened while the centers may not.

That being said, are the ones Pelican sells the "cheapies"? Any risk in using those?



"Might" and "may" have no place in that sentence. The cheap ones aren't hardened at all, the good ones are hardened on the contact tip only, and there are some out there that are improperly hardened and the tip breaks off. I've also seen some that break where the nut contacts the rocker arm. 3 in one recently rebuilt engine, matter of fact. Good ones should be available for 6-8 bucks apiece.

The Cap'n
stugray
ThePaintedMan-

You need the 8mm, for a 1.7 or 1.8 right?

I have a full set that I just removed and replaced with the swivels.
Tell me a good deed that you have done lately.....:-)

Then PM me your address.

Stu
ThePaintedMan
QUOTE(Cap'n Krusty @ Dec 19 2012, 06:32 PM) *

"Might" and "may" have no place in that sentence. The cheap ones aren't hardened at all, the good ones are hardened on the contact tip only, and there are some out there that are improperly hardened and the tip breaks off. I've also seen some that break where the nut contacts the rocker arm. 3 in one recently rebuilt engine, matter of fact. Good ones should be available for 6-8 bucks apiece.

The Cap'n


Cap'n,
I respect your years of experience with these cars, but I think you lack a lot of tact, or patience when reading other peoples posts. I meant that the PORSCHE screws were potentially only hardened at the tips and that I understood SLITS' point about not filing them. Obviously ALL of the aftermarket cheapo screws are suspect and I never planned on using them. I can't understand why you talk down to people and blame it on "just being you", but I respect you anyway and wish you happy holidays. grouphug.gif

Stu,
I finished all of my bodywork and painted my god-awful ugly mess last weekend, sparing everyone's eyes from looking at it anymore. Would you consider that a good deed? smile.gif Check my signature for the link. I'll PM you in a sec and throw a couple bucks your way if you like. Yup, its for a 1.7. Cheers!

-George
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