I have tried everything to get into this thing. The rear trunk latch is obviously destroyed and I am just about at the point of drilling the thing out to get inside and install another. I tried opening up the underside access panel just above the transmission but that wont budge either.

Has anyone ever drilled on out? And if so, what was your technique and how did you get the sucker open after? I have seen the latches posted on ebay for about 10 bucks so I dont mind replacing just wondering if that is my ticket to get inside.

Any help is appreciated

What's wrong? Can't get in? Lock frozen? Lost the key? More info please.

Open the engine lid and with a fairly long stiff wire attempt to trigger the rear trunk latch by running it though the seal between the lid and engine compartment.

You could also try swivel sockets and remove the 4 bolts that hold the trunk lid to the hinges, but this could allow the torsion bars to pop up the hinges which might cause an injury (assuming you have the stock torsion bar setup). Maybe loosening them will allow for sufficient room to see and trigger the latch.

I've never had to do this and hopefully will never have to.

The key will turn just fine. This may be a stupid question but unlocked is when the key is vertical correct? Anyways, if the key is horizontal or vertical the result is the same, you can press the button but feel no tension in the button and nothing happens. Sometimes when you push on the trunk you can feel it lock back completely again and then you may feel something at the very bottom when you push button again.

I almost did exactly that earlier but the torsion bars made me think twice about it. Id much rather not have those come loose under that much tension.

Had the same problem. Used a hammer to drive the plunger in and then took a big screwdriver and drove it in a little further. Opened right up. Parts car and not much value selling a lock that won't unlock. No external damage to body panel observed. Won't vouch for conditon of remaining latch either way. js

You can drill a small hole in the trunk floor from the bottom and feed a coat hanger in to pull down on the latch!

There is a little tit on the back end of the lock cylinder that triggers the mechanism. It is what breaks off. I don't have an image handy.

look at this eBay listing ... the little circular thingy next to the lock cylinder assembly. The "tit" on that little thingy breaks off.

Trunk Trigger Thingy

When you turn the assembly with the key to lock, the "tit" moves out of the way and won't trigger the mechanism.

I am thinking this might be my best route. Where abouts do you drill and how is the latch set up to open once I get the hanger inside? Pics?

Unlocked the lock slit should be horizontal.

Here is a photo of mine but I have an electric release solinoid!

Okay well tomorrow, by hook or by crook, that thing will open. I have never seen what is inside.

Who wants to guess what I will find?

My guess is porsche parts!!

If you don't want to tear up the lock, I think you can go from the engine bay with a couple of long socket extensions to get to the bolts that secure the trunk latch. A decent lock is $50+ so you can buy the extensions and then return if you want to be thrifty/cheap.

Do a search here, this has been discussed before. The socket and extension method works well without destroying half the car in the process.

Edit: I see this has already been mentioned, but here's some directions. Now that the BS has cleared, lemme tell you how to open the trunk without damaging anything. You'll need a quarter inch drive ratchet and about 4 feet of extensions. I use the kind that lock together. The last extension, the one nearest the work, should probably be a "wobble" extension. Install a 10mm 6 point socket to that one, and build the "drill pipe" as you go, adding to the length as necessary. Open the engine lid, pull the trunk seal out, and begin inserting your tools. A good flashlight is important. Once the stack is long enough to reach the latch, remove the 2 6mm bolts that hold it in place. They're short, so you won't spend a lot of time doing that. At this point, the trunk lid will open, and you haven't damaged anything in the process. I can do this job without loosening the trunk hinges, but you can always back the bolts off a few turns to make the gap wider.

The Cap'n

That should read "remove the two 10mm bolts that hold..."

Get yer shit straight Cap'n

Ditto ...............
BTDT

Last time I checked, a 6mm x 1.0 bolt with a 10 mm socket head was properly referred to by any knowledgeable mechanic or engineer type as a "6mm". Leave the Cap'n alone

Well the first attempt will be to use the extension method mentioned here. Second is drilling the hole. I have been searching for a good picture of the whole assembly but havent had any luck. I just want to make sure if I end up going the drilled hole method that I know where to drill and what to pull on with the hanger. Any help is appreciated.

I had accidentally broke the wire for the solenoid and couldn't get in, but at that point in time, I had the luxury of my lid did not completely sitting down, but what I did was went to the most far back passenger corner with about a 3/8" rod and slipped it under the lid, and just pushed down on the plunger to open it.

After I got it open, I also made a back up using a fishing line leader and went up around where the tag lights are, and hooked it to the mechanism just in case the other way would fail.

So is it a 6mm or a 10mm?

The bolt is 6mm in diameter. The socket that fits the head of the bolt is 10mm.

Here is your target..

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Calm down old dog, I was just the Cap'n.

I understand nomenclature for describing fastener sizes, you understand it and I'm fairly certain the Cap'n does too. But it doesn't sound like others do (see a few posts up from this, someone asks if it's 10mm or 6mm). For those that don't know, saying a 10mm socket in one sentence, and then a 6mm bolt in another sentence could be confusing.

As for the Cap'n, don't worry about me picking on him, he is more than adept at sticking up for himself. He is world famous on this board for being outspoken and crass. But don't think I disrespect him, I think he knows more about (and is correct in) his 914 information as anyone I've seen on this board.

We can't bash him for being wrong about things, because it doesn't happen (if it does, I haven't heard about it). But when he does write something that could've been better, at least have the decency to let us poke him about it a little bit!

I can't wait for the continuation of this saga. The fish leader thing sounds like a good idea. At least it will guaranty that the think will never fail.

I hope these pictures help...
(I'm guessing two new SS heat exchangers will be found in there )

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Well thanks to everyone here i got in and the only thing in there was an empty grocery bag

However I did see the following. Anyone know what the heck they Were doing when they put welds here? There is one on each side.

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Easy ! I have to admit I have been watching this "group " for a while. I was just joining in the fun.... I've never seen so many people have so much fun and being so helpful to one another. It must have something to do with loving an orphan like the 914. I hope with time you and everyone will get used to my dry sense of humor and I hope someday I can suggest something that helps someone. Teeners are great!

You're going to fit in just fine with that sense of humor, old dog!

And I wasn't upset at you...at all!

Have a Merry Christmas!

Au contraire, mon ami, it is YOU who should get his shit straight. Bolts are measured by their thread size, NOT the wrench size. Back to kindergarten for you.

You may wonder why I'm being so easy on you. Hey, it's the holiday season, as well as the end of the year, and I have a contractual obligation to be nice to one person each year. You're that person.

Congrats! The Cap'n

And again i missed my chance to fill the Cap'n's yearly spot of "that person" ...