Have a '74 Single Weber 32/36 electric choke, 1.8 Fresh rebuild with correct Cam for Carb conversion, Pertronics Ignition and Coil, purrs like a kitten.

Problem is on startup runs good but as it warms Idel slowly drops from 1500 to zero killing the engine, restarts immediately but have to feather throttle to keep from dropping off again.

Once it's at normal temp isn't as bad but when I stop with clutch in it drops off to zero rpm unless I'm in neutral clutch out? Push clutch in RPM drops.

Now this gets more interesting, once moving at normal temp shifts between 2nd to 3rd, and 3rd to 4th, clutch in RPM does not drop from where it was. Shifting from 4th to 5th RPM actually slowly increases from where it was when running in forth while not applying throttle until clutch is released?

Same Carb as was on the car before the rebuld and non of these problems occurred prior to the rebuild

Any thoughts or suggestions as to what to look for?

You mean when its in gear with the clutch in the rpm drops.?

Your clutch needs to be tighter, the adjustment nut on the tranny end of the cable




Joseph

Right Joe.
When Clutch peddle is in the RPM's drop. Tony told me about the Idel dropping off at idel when I picked it up and said feather the throttle when at a stop. He wanted to get the car back to me to have time to drive it before the winter set in and to finish the break in of the new cam rings head everything. Then, bring it back after I put a couple hundred mile on it for final adjustments, which is where I'm at.

Earlier I had called him and told him the Idel drop seemed to be tied into the Clutch peddle position. He said he didn't know how that was possible unless the throttle and clutch cables are some how interfearing with each other?

I'm sure the the floating RPM's between gears is some how tied into the problem aswell. Knowing what to expect with this it's not a major problem driving the car but once we figure this out and correct it she'll be perfect and a lot easier to drive.

Wonder also if it could be something with Electric Choke malfuntion, vaccum leak, linkage binding, deceleration vavle( if there is one), throttle return spring,
carb bleed holes........?

Doug

I forgot to mention, along with the rebuild, replaced the clutch, throwout bearing, and both clutch and throttle cables and pullies...all new.

I agree with Joe on this one. Start at the clutch. Its the safest and easiest place to start, especially given the symptoms you described. I say safest because there is a possibility, that you mentioned, that the accel cable and clutch cable are interfering with one another. I would start by adjusting the clutch tighter back by the transmission. Start it up and see if it helps. If not, don't drive it. Check where the cables attach to the pedal assembly in the center tunnel by opening the little hatch at the front of the tunnel. When I first got my car on the road I had one wrapped around another and it caused the opposite problem- the throttle stuck once and it was scary as hell. Its a pain in the ass, but worth checking. The final thing to check would be the clutch tube itself, as it may have broken one or more of its welds and is causing interference.

After all that is ruled out, then I'd move onto tinkering with the rest. In my experience vacuum leaks on carbs would cause the idle to rise, not fall.

-George

Just saw this response. This sounds even more like problems with the adjustment or the cables interfering at the front of the tunnel, IMHO.

Thanks guys, just what I was hoping to hear. This will allow me to talk intellegently to Tony at Translog. I'll schedule an appointment with him, to do the final adjustments (Valves, Timing, Carb if needed) change out the Cam Breakin Oil and check for leaks (non known) and any other unkown things that need to be addressed.

The return for final checkout was included in the rebuild work he did. This should help him target the fix. He did a great job on the rebuild.....just wish he didn't take so long, but in the long run worth the wait and years faster then if I tried to do it myself on jack stands.

Once this is done I'll most likely be parking it in the garage for the next couple months and be ready to roll early Spring, and Hershey soon after. Only thing left to do is rear springs, install the MOMO Steering Wheel and Rear Valance.

Doug