i think the one i just installed is a 19.

instead of having 2 male electrical spades on it - it has only one and a rubber nub in center - which does not match up with the 2 that i have on my harness?

do i need to get a pressure switch from a 17mm and replace the one on the 19 ???

i also just replaced the brake lines thru tunnel and in engine bay and installed prop valve on passenger side. not pretty but should suffice??

also - is there supposed to be a washer between tha banjo and the mastercylinder or just between banjo and male/female dohickey that holds banjo in place?

Only one wire is needed for the brake switch. The other side of the switch is grounded through the MC. The other one can dangle. If you pick the wrong one, the brake light will stay lit.

About the banjos, there's one on either side of the fitting if I understand your question correctly.

thanks and thanks

it is the little things that have to be ordered from different vendors that really slows the progress down : ((

jim

to top it off, the metal gasket in either side of the banjo are different sizes.

and cfr sells the fuel tank strainer with gasket but i'll have to order the return side gasket from AA. that will be a small order.

maybe i can cap the return side of tank off with a galvanized pipe cap??

How much of a difference does it make to switch from 17mm to 19mm? And what is the cost for parts and labour (can't do it myself - not very mechanically inclined). Thought about having this done if it's worth it.

The difference in piston cross-section area is about 25%. So you are effectively reducing your leverage by 25%, so you have to push 25% harder to get the same braking effect but the pedal moves 25% less.

The brake warning switch with one terminal grounds through its threads. The one with two poles grounds through one of them--which is hooked up to a plain brown wire.

To use the single-terminal sender, just hook up the brown wire that has a stripe (forget if it's a white or yellow stripe) and the the plain brown wire up out of the way.

--DD

since there is the KNOWN flex in the floor pan at the peddle assy - i'd have to say that needing to press 25% harder is not a PLUS.

cfr has this little gizmo that may help.
http://www.tangerineracing.com/brakes.htm

jim

Galvanized pipe has pipe threads, the tank fittings have conventional metric threads. Good luck matching the 2. Do it the right way. There are metric caps available, BTW. You'll still need the gasket.

The Cap'n

i was gonna check ace for a cap but since i ordered the strainer and the 2 seals, i will just run a short bit of 8mm line and plug it. thanks

and here is the MC on my other car - clearly can see the 2 metal gaskets on either side of the banjo.