Hello World, Happy new year!

I have removed the dashboard from the car and have tried to recover the dash by hand using a heat gun and brute force stretching//pushing/cramming etc.
As much as it was a PITA, it was coming along pretty well.

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Both times!
The first time I realized the glue wouldn't hold up in the heat. The second time I realized I want to use a Uv protected vinyl. Generally marine vinyl. I had no idea about the vinyl I was using, so off it came. I found some that will hold up well and is much stretchier than what I what I had been using. Awaiting samples.

Now, I have seen a lot about Vacuum bagging/pressing and want to try it on my dashboard. I think it would work well at normal temps with the stretchier vinyl and the right glue. (Weldwood)

So, I'm wondering if anyone has any experience they would like to share.
I have a vacuum pump but no bag yet. I've found a few options. They're
expensive!

I feel that the vacuum bagging will show the cracks much more than hand fitting so I want to fill them better. Is RTV the best thing to use? Maybe CA glue?

Advice and suggestions welcome.
TIA.
Bob.

Back in the 80's when I worked for Orig-Quip putting on car tops, we took the tops and put them in the dryer to soften up. This made them easier to work turning the corners around the back window. As for the glue, it came from the manufacturer, probably a special blend for hot and cold extremes of the car roof.

Interesting project. I look forward to seeing the results.

Any imperfections present (crease, wrinkles etc) will still be there if you vacuum bag, they will just be flatter.

The preheating in a drier is excellent to get fold creases out prior to installing.
Old school is still the best way to go for the layout.

You can vacuum bag with industrial strength saran-wrap.
You dont even need the fancy fittings that the pros use.
Some plumbers putty can seal odd places and is reuseable.

I have considered making a fiberglass mold of my dash cap and replicating them in carbon fiber.

Stu

I dont know how vacuum bagging works but maybe you can try covering the dashtop with a thin foam like they use under vinyl tops to feather the cracks..Although, it looks like your doing a pretty nice job the oldschool way. That vinyl needs to stretch north south east and west all at the same time to contour to those curves. I would stick with what you are doing and just take your time...Nice job! PS..we need a upholstery smiley

Very thin foam is a nice way to cover the cracks. For vac bags, you can use painters plastic sheet in a not too thick MM. Cheap and easy. I second the plumbers putty and fittings. With a dash it is easy because the bottom can be where you put the fittings so any marks are not an issue. I have been toying with this idea for a while.....it is on the back burner with other projects.

An idea I have had for a cheap pump, try to find a used breast pump Probably cheap.

When I read the title to this thread, I thought someone hit their head on one or something

stugray Posted Jan 6 2013, 01:49 PM
"You can vacuum bag with industrial strength saran-wrap.
You dont even need the fancy fittings that the pros use.
Some plumbers putty can seal odd places and is reuseable."

I like where you're going here. do you think it will stretch enough for the crevices and wrap under instrument hood? Where do you get it?

nomore9one4
"That vinyl needs to stretch north south east and west all at the same time to contour to those curves."

That is why I'm getting the new vinyl... 4 way stretch.

Gint.
"Interesting project. I look forward to seeing the results."

Yeah, Me too!

Could "Plasti Dip" be used to fill the cracks? Not the spray, the tool handle dip.

Never tried the plasti dip.. For a deep cracks I would use spray foam(the kind in a can used for insulating around doors and windows) Its flexible and easy to shape.

The expanding stuff?

I think there was a member that filled the cracks by disolving polystyrene foam in acetone. Basically makes plastic. Try gooooglin it.

yes

Spray foam would be the best for deep cracks, but you would still see them. You nee the thin foam overlay.

I filled the cracks in my dash with 3 minute epoxy about 6 years ago. I then painted the dash with vinyl paint just to get through the summer. 6 years later (6 very cold -30 winters as well) and it still hasn't opened up again and I have to look to see where the cracks were.
If you were going to cover it with vinyl then I'm sure you would never see it.

correct..i would still use the thin foam overtop. the spray foam would prevent any low spots. Although back in the day I would be able to repair this without covering it with new vinyl... However I no longer have the resources or the patience

The cracks aren't deep. Mostly just through the vinyl. What kind of film/foam overlay? How thick/thin? Would it hinder good adhesion into the tight corners?

1/8" from a upholstery shop will work.

I may be wrong, but didnt craig at "camp914" start doing the vacuum formed dash panels??? Maybe he can give you some advise

Give me a call and I can give you some ideas on how the professionals do it.
503-799-5794
Craig at CAMP

The epoxy idea is a good start for the cracks. You need to add a sandable filler to it, though, to ease in the shaping of the finished product. The best product is called microballoons and we used to use it in model making. You add it to the epoxy and it makes it easier to sand.

Link to microballoons

This will be great..."Evil Dashboard Clinic at Scotty's" ...bring your breast pump!
I can see the photoshop pics already

When I modified a 911 dash for my project I used the Flexible Bumper repair filler, worked very well.

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I cut back the cracks so the edges would not be rolled up.

Would it replace the whole dash? I want one.

Good thread. I would just add that I see several comments about using 5 minute epoxy. 5 minute epoxy is "thermal Plastic" 12 or 24 hour epoxys are usually "Thermal setting" The thermal plastic epoxy will soften with heat. The thermal setting will set faster with heat and is not as easily effected with heat. The dash will get hot in the sun.

Bob, if you go this route PM me. I have some leftover micro balloons from my aircraft days.

Thanks for some good ideas. I'll probably do the epoxy or bumper filler. I don't want to deal with a layer of foam.

If I do the epoxy I'll be in touch about the microbaloons.
I built a plane but never heard of the stuff.
Click to view attachment

Craig, Ill give you a call in the next day or two.

I just brought my pump home to give it a once over.

I hope they're safer than those big balloons

Click to view attachment

I used baking soda and superglue on several dash repairs. Works perfectly and has the same consistency as the vinyl cover. It's sandable and easy to work with.

My most important advice is to do the filling when the dash is warm/hot or else it will brake again when exposed to sun.

I think my dad used to use this stuff, microballoons, mixed with super glue, to fill voids when he built a bunch of r/c airplanes back in the '80's Iirc.

I have done some diy car interiors, mostly when I was a lot younger. I may be wrong and someone chime in if I am but I think auto body filler kitty hair probably the short strand type would work on large cracks pretty good. Regular filler on small cracks. I think the bumper filler is really trying to stick to roughed up vinyl and metal not urethane. The summer heat is the challenge. I also would think the thin foam will have a shorter life trying to hold the vinyl in place than maybe a thin felt. I haven't tried to cover a curved dash before though and I will follow this thread as mine has developed a small crack at the windshield side by the gauge hump transition. We know this can be done well. My only hope is the first try is enough but usually on something like this as in car finishes only time will tell. My repairs on the urethane bumpers I did was only perfect for a few years. Probably because I missed some fractures.

I would also like the brand and vender of the 4 way stretch dash vinyl.

I have a 79 jeep truck that set several years with the passengers side window down in a pasture. The dash has never cracked and I have been using it since 01. Wierd huh.

Don't want to hijack but I have a mold. Made my CF 914 dash with it. I just dont have time to go into production. More on this in a new thread...

BTW I did cut back the edges too when i used epoxy.

The only thing I know about cf is my son's sti hood has dulled real bad in the sun. The only way to avoid that I think, is to rebuff it and then scotchbrite it then clearcoat it and rebuff it. I think the clear coat the mfg used is not as good as real urethane clearcoat paint. Just like fg panels or boat hulls.

www.diyupholsterysupply.com
All sport marine Vinyl. Comes in 11 colors. I ordered some samples. Should be here this week.

I wont be using the CF but am curious if is a cap or whole dashboard.

Valy, Good advice about fixing while warm/hot. Would there be the same problem in reverse when it gets cold?

I have thought about this and and I think the filler that is used needs to be about the same as the parent material so it will contract and expand the same amount. Although if it is covered with thin foam or felt that should hide any small cracks that come back. I have used a comercial urethane selant for a glue and a selant and I bet that will work but it is not sandable so it would have to be wiped on smooth. THe stuff I use is NP1. I did try this on the drip rail of my hunting truck and it shrunk and the paint cracked.

While I was searching for vinyl I found this:
http://www.vtr.org/maintain/dash-recovering.shtml

http://www.jefflilly.com/shops/upholstery-...ard-covers.html

Bob, It is a CF dash. Not an overlay. I started a new thread with a photo.

Mike