I seriously applaud your the amount of effort and labor you are putting into this Kent, It's gonna be spectacular when you're done. That sure is a hell of a lot of wiring though.. If it doesn't make you go insane, it sure will leave your mind nice and sharp. People pay good money for puzzles and "brain training" exercises. You've got them beat by a bunch.

Part of me is really glad I went this route... so much simpleness.

Almost everything involves trade-offs, giving up something to get something else. For example if you jet for near sea level, where you live, your poor car will be hacking climbing up over 6000 feet. assuming of course that those carbs are still well synced and the jets all clean. He's putting more work into it now, but will never have any of those issues, and as a bonus will have a car that starts easier, has more power, and gets better mileage the whole time.

Don't get me wrong, I still love carburetors myself, can't beat the look and that sound, but as I get older I find there are a lot of little things competing for my attention. I appreciate that fuel injection, once set up, just works, and works well, no muss, no fuss. But yes, it's true, I AM lazy.

Nice work Kent! Don't get rid of that extra wire yet. You'll need to extend several of yours for things like the radiator fans, etc.

Hey thanks Ethan, that means a lot coming from an over achiever like you. I think your conversion was a feat considering you did it a few weeks before school resumed while working.

DB, you read my mind. All 3 min's worth.

Thanks Chris, You were probably grinning from ear to ear while I fussed with the harness, having been there. Anyway, I want to give credit where credit is due but first I need to back up a few weeks. After staring at 40+ lb's of wiring for a few weeks I decided to just jump in and began cutting. Thank goodness my Subaru factory manual arrived just days later or I would have had a real mess on my hands . After perusing the wiring diagram I realized that I had cut some wires that were needed and from what I could tell I had my work cut out for me. Since I had already caved in about using all the Suby harness' I decided to save myself some more time and ordered the smallcar directions for the VW Van conversion. This was a GOOD decision. First, my manual was missing a few updates that I would have missed. But more importantly was the support that I've received from the tech dept. Mel is the person in tech (and I'll bet the owner, too) that I deal with. He is a Prince to work with, seems always available and knows what the Hell he is talking about. He's been into Suby's forever and his enthusiasm is testimony to his love for his craft. Just wanted to pass this on to you guys getting ready to convert. Unless you are a Mike, Tom, Geoff or a EE I would suggest spending $175 with smallcar.com. The support is phenomenal.
So here is a pic of the almost complete harness tidied up. The looms are not taped in place because some lengths or wires for that matter , will change after it is fitted in it's new home.

Look closely at the first 2 pic's. I needed to add to this line and rolled off some wire, cut to length and noticed that although the sheaths were the same the gauges were different. Notice how much larger the sheath is on the one that matches the gauge.

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And the semi-finished product. I'm glad I did this and I'm happy to be done with it.

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This area will get covered with loom but not until the last.
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looks good!

Do your self a favor and do not do a final wrap of the harness until all the bugs are worked out and the car runs great.

I've been having some intermittent issues and has to strip and chase every single wire. All were connected correctly but I found a loose connection in the factory temp sensor plug.

Do yourself a favor check all the grounds and battery connections at the plugs!!!
This will save you a great amount of time. Not trouble shooting battery and ground
problems when you try to start the engine.

Mike and you have both said basically the same thing and coming from 2 of our elec guru's, it looks like the ohm meter needs a workout. Thanks for the tips. I'm not shy and I'm thick skinned so keep 'em coming.

Don't be afraid to pull on each wire at each connection. If you find a bad one, it is much easier to fix while it's out of the car.

Ask me how I know...

Good point. I shouldn't blindly accept the work of another. An EE showed me what pulling on one means. I was surprised by the amount of force he used but that's what's necessary. BTW, where can a guy buy a decent ratcheting crimper for less than an arm and leg? I remember that style crimper seemed to get it tight & right the first time, every time. And thanks for the electrical help from you Ace's. Not my strong point and just knowing that "those in the know" are watching is comforting to say the least. Before I moved out here I used to hang with 3-4 EE's and never had to concern myself with much electrical. Thx for picking up where my old buddies left off.

The crimper I use was made by Molex. I cost $125, 15 years ago.

mouser electronics can help you find one.

Here are some options from Grainger:

http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/wwg/searc...mp;N=4293734508

Note that there are different tools for insulated and bare terminals.

Thanks, I ordered a Greenlee tonight. $56.00 w/ tx/shpg. Not bad. Everything I've done on the harness thus far was soldered so I ask; do you guy's use di-electric grease on crimp joints?

Not required if in a dry environment.

I'm back after it after a 5 week hiatus. I thought that f*&$#ing bug was going to kill me and my whining damn near killed my wife. Let's see, where did I leave off? The wiring . I have most of the new wiring done and installed though not tested or properly installed in the looms. I was glad that I saved the Suby wiring grommets as they came in handy. I'll post some pic's of this later. I pulled the drive train to replace some hoses and other odds n ends before reinstalling for one of the last times, I hope!

While out I thought I'd try removing the power steering pump which isn't needed.

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First attempt was with a 47" belt which was too loose. I used this pic with the PS pump still installed to show how much the geometry changes as related to the tensioner. When the belt went around the large pulley of the pump the tensioner was effective but as you see in the final pics it is less effective. I ended up using a 46.5" belt which was Hell to install. Very tight to slip on even with the tensioner relaxed. I think it is tight enough but time will tell. I may have to re-install the pump just for the use of that pully.

This is the 47" belt. A little too loose.

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The 46.5" belt installed

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I could use a little help here. Any Suby guys here that can identify these fuel hoses? I can't seem to locate that info in the manuals. What are #1,2 & 3? Is #4 a filter. Are any of these not used? I assume that gas enters the canister #4 to the fuel rail via #1. #2 is the return? #3 fuel vapor????

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Welcome back Kent! Glad you're well again.

The big cylinder thingy to the left labeled #4 is your fuel filter. Replace it when you do your next parts order. They are cheap. The fuel flow is - out of the tank and into the fuel filter first, so that would mean that #1 is most likely your "line in". Since #2 is the exact same hose type that is probably your "line out" return line back to the tank exactly like the FI teener setup. Check the manual again for #3. Probably a vapor thing but just make sure it's not pressurized...most likely goes to a canister or back through the manifold or something. But make suuuure. Be careful and also make sure your hose clamps are very tight....we're going to 60 psi now! Yeeehaaaaa!

This topic made we wince... my turbo Suby Teener project was stalled for a couple of weeks until I figured out that I mixed up the inlet and return hoses. Once I figured it out, my car purred!

I agree with Chris H. that #1 is the inlet, #2 is the outlet, and #3 is a vapor breather line. Well, at least that is what mine looks like (see the pic below) -- the inlet is the one on the left and the outlet is the one on the right, underneath the air-to-water intercooler. What originally tricked me was that I assumed the inlet pipe should feed the fuel pressure regulator; in actuality, the pipe coming out of the fuel pressure regulator feeds back to the fuel tank. Hope this makes sense.

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Thanks Chris & Geoff, Wasn't sure and damned if I can find that in print, yet..... Saturday I rolled the drivetrain back into position to mark where the truck gets cut and to begin the shifter fabrication. I think I'm going to just say "stuff" from now on. It's easier to spell. I'm using the MR2 shifter. I'm not sure how it was mounted in the Toyo but it won't set flush on any flat surface so it needed to be raised about 1.5 - 2". In keeping with my CSOB ways all the metal was from pile o' .

The 1-2, 3-4, 5-R gates are controlled by the rotation of the shaft, An 1/8" flat lever was drilled & welded onto a piece of 5/8" tube, .095 IIRC. My shifter has appx 30mm travel or 15mm 1/2 travel. Borrowing "heavily" from DB Cooper's build I began to search for the sweet spot in the lever. I want to have about 13-14mm between the gates which is slightly less than the maximum travel of the shifter. I may end up adding some limiters o the shifter itself, later. This little gizmo allowed me to measure the travel and locate the attach point of the cable.

Edit : Opps, hit the wrong button. Will add the rest of this on the next page

Round 2.

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These guy's were of no help

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This was the starting point for mounting the shifter. 2ea.- 5.5" pieces of 1/8 x 2" angle. These were drilled to match the existing tapped holes for the old shifter. A basic "T" configuration. KISS. The back 2 bolts are symbolic. One 13mm German/one 12mm Nippon; same thread. The blue tape has center line marks of the old shifter. I set mine back a few inch's to accommodate me.

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A 9.5" x 5.5" x 1/8" plate was cut out to allow for shifter recess then placed on the angle and tacked into place. I''ll weld it up later.

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A quick test fit to be sure the console fits. I'll make another piece of burled aluminum to cover this area as it was before.

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Mounted the shifter. Look close you will see the felt tip measurements on the side of the shifter. As mentioned earlier, the piece on the left side moves for and aft as the stick is moved left and right. I know. It's freeking magic but it does. This movement is 15mm & 15mm. The eyelet on the shift rod is the one that controls movement between 1&2 or 3&4 or 5&R. Or the in-out action of the rod on the transmission. The travel here is 60mm or twice what's needed at the tranny so I will most likely lower the eyelet appx 13mm.

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Now it's point "A" to point "B" measurement time. Stole this idea from Bob. Looks like 6.5' and 7.5'.

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While I'm waiting for the cables to come in I jumped back to the tank to make this gasket for the Suby fuel pump. The tank isn't so flat at one end of the cut out so I cut this cork gasket from a 3/8" sheet. Now I need to decide whether to use rivenuts or plate nuts for the bolts.

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Nice work Kent! Looks like the cable shifter is a lot more fine tuning than I imagined...hoping Ian will get one cooking soon. Getting organized for another blast of work on mine. Been really cold out here.

Hey BTW not sure if this will help at all but the cableshift.com website has instructions for adjusting their cable shift setups. Their Subie setup is different than the way we plan to do it but it might help you anyway:

Setup Instructions

There are several other cable shift setups on there too.

The cables arrived and I couldn't wait to hook 'em up. Yes, I think I could have shortened them by 6" or so but I took the safe route. The first thing was to get the MR2 shifter to accept the 1/4" cables. As you can see in the first pic, this peg is 10mm in diameter; too large for the 1/4" hiem joint. And the other side looks like it was set up for some type of clevis joint. I thought the clevis might intro some unneeded slop so I welded a 1/4" shoulder bolt thru this opening as well.

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So I ground it off flush and welded a 1/4" shoulder bolt in it's place.

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Once I began to move the shifter thru it's pattern I found a clearance issue so I had to grind down an overblown factory weld.

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Then the head of this bolt needed to be ground down a tad. Now everything moves about freely.

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The cables attached in the cabin......It was necessary to remove the plastic bushing on the firewall where the shift rod had passed thru. Odd that the bushing was a Royal PITA to install yet popped out quite easily. Once removed it was possible to fit the cables thru that opening after removing the nuts and washers. I'll get pic's from the rear in the next post. I need to find the engine mount bolts that I put somewhere when I was sick.

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So while I look for the bolts for the motor mount I moved onto finish the fuel pump install. But before I can install the pump I need to level out the tanks surface. The tank offsets just a tad next to the flanged area where the tank halves join together. This is a 1.25" x 15" piece of square stock that is clamped here. You can see the hump if you look closely.

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With a bit of hammering against the stock piece it flattened out well.

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Then a final clean before the Rivenuts & JB Weld.

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Let the JB Weld set up overnight then attached the pump housing. It fit!

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Before you weld up the shifter mounting base, you might want to consider raising it. I had to mock up a system to raise mine a few inches and move it back so that I didn't have to lean over to reach it. I'd suggest mounting the driver seat and making sure he ergonomics are correct before finalizing everything, since the first-gen Toyota MR2 shifter is short compared to the stock 914 shifter. I still need to weld up a final mount system.

Be sure you make vroom-vroom noises while checking it all out...

Good point, Geoff. I did set the shifter back a few inches and centered it within the console but I'd better put the seat in, as you've suggested, for the real world scenario. Thx!

I was able to finish up with the shifter fab today so I thought I'd throw out a few dimensions here 'n there for others. You will need one 15" piece of 2x2 angle 1/8" thick. Cut one piece 6", one piece 5", one piece 1 7/8", one piece 1 5/8". Pieces will not fit flush against one another because of the filet or curvature unless you grind off about 1/8" where the pieces lap together. There are two 12mm holes drilled to attach this to the transmission. They are drilled 40mm apart c/c and staggered 2mm as shown. The 6" piece gets a 7/8"x1 1/4" section removed for clearance of a trans bolt. The 1 5/8" piece is placed in a vice and squeezed to open 15 degrees then reduced to 1" wide on it's other side. This is necessary to allow for the 20 degree angle while keeping the bulkhead in line and centered. I haven't cut the levered piece to it's final length because I want to play with some different throws but I pretty sure it will stay where it is. It shifts like a brand new car and I can't wait to drive this new set up. It still needs to be tidied up, painted, etc. Anyway I'm going to throw a bunch of pics at you. It's pretty self explanatory but ask if you have any ???

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Nice Kent! What is the HP of that 6? I'm working on an idea for a mid-engine shop truck and was thinking a Sub 6 would be the answer. I would need enough hp to pull a trailer. (my trailer with a 914 on it)

Industrious bugger, ain't ya?

Looks nice. Neat 'wheelie bar' too

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I'm happy you were able to get it worked out, since I still can't get down on the ground. Well, I could get down but probably not back up. At the end of the day it's pretty simple, isn't it? It makes all the difference in the world in how the car drives.

I need to take some photos of the way my shifter's mounted, it's a little different than your setup. Well done.

Whoa....Kent...that's above and beyond.... Thanks man.

Even I could do that using your instructions.

Hoping to have some time over the holidays to get serious about the project again.

Hey were both cables a little long? Actually hoping so because I want to use the Honda shifter and it might be a little different.

Nice work!!!!!!

IIRC, 230hp Rick. The 3.3's are cheaper, longer, heavier and have a few more horses. If you go 2004 or newer you'll be "fly by wire", +30 hp, ACAV. Gets complicated.





Well thank you DB. Emulation being the sincerest form of flattery. Or more bluntly; I copied from your build. I didn't have that curved piece and was too lazy to make one. I tried to closely align the cable with travel path of the push rod in the tranny to lessen the cable force. Other than that I stole from your post. Hey DB, do you have back up lights? I noticed that you have the back up and neutral senders looped together. And yes, it is pretty simple in the end. I couldn't wait to rant here about how well it shifted, How precise and crisp it feels. Then I remembered you had already said what I felt. You did not exaggerate.

Sorry Chris, I missed your response earlier. Yes, they are 6" too long but no big deal.

I got back to the gas tank today and finished it. It was fun but I'm glad it's over. Maybe I should have left it with the delivery system it had used previously but this Subaru pump is up to date, easily available, cheap and #1 safer! Lots of prep time measuring. The old adage "measure twice cut once" was never truer. I got azzhole lucky and everything fit. I saw this setup in a pic somewhere, liked it and copied it. It is Bob's (BIGKAT) idea to use the Impreza pump and relocating OEM sender. I didn't have the measurements when I began but I do now. If you go the same route hit me up I'll share them.

As mentioned in another thread I welded the ends closed on the tank nipples.

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The last mod to this tank will be to relocate the fuel sender. I need the new location to clear the hold down strap and the new fuel pump assembly while staying in line with the "channel" or deepest part. The tank baffle is within an inch of the sender so watch it! I used the old seal to mark for the cut out and bolt hole location.

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Here the holes are prep'd for JB Weld on the rivenuts.

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After the epoxy has set it is test fit with the new cork gasket.

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This is a fender washer that I cut to retain the screen pick up which I had to rotate 180 degrees to fit inside the "bucket" section of the tank. This bucket is where the old tank outlet was. Once the screen was rotated the part which had held it in place is now sticking out with nothing to hold it down. Hence this horseshoe piece is riveted in place and holds down that unsupported part is now captured. You can see it beneath the washer. It's a white plastic piece.

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Clean tank, reassemble, strap down, connect fuel sender and temp wire nut pump.

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Something new. I wired the fan system and learned a great deal in the process. It's covered in this thread. http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=226470 If your going twin fan there is an excellent schematic shown there and it would behoove you to print it. I ran 14ga wire and placed it in the some loom that I pulled from the donor. The only thing left is to pull the tank so I can run the harness beneath the tank then up to the relay bank. The green & black wires now running over the tank will be under it and trimmed to final length.

Got a grommet in place and ran this 8ga thru

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Up thru the tunnel

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and out thru another grommet

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to

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to

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to my relay block that I lifted from the donor car. It has 2 30 amp fuses that are used on 3 of these relays. The others will need their own fuses. The relay that sits off to the side is the 5 pole (DTSP?) relay. It all mounts to the reservoir bracket after the speed clip is removed and a 6061 sleeve/bolt is used in place.

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The blue wires on the right are the hi & lo speed switch wires, and remainder are wired into existing ign system. The Bk and Gr wires on the left side are the 14 ga wires to the fans.

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Great work! You might DRIVE that thing soon! What's next? Hydraulic clutch?

Awesome post man. Thanks! If Ian isn't able to get something going, I'll be building one just like this for myself. How about a few angles on the part that connects to the shift rod?

Hey Chris, This is what still needs to be done, AFAIK. I have the 1/2 shafts to convert; test ECU wiring; make a intake breather; clutch conversion. I usually choose the most daunting task so it's not there to haunt me. Given that, I'll probably do the clutch next Have any tips or info for me re: the clutch? I'm all ears. I've read PCR's post on converting. Which route are you headed?

Hey Doug, Let me know if this answers your question. See post #175. There are 2 pieces that have an angle. First is the 1" wide piece of the angle that the cable (running parallel with the trans) passes thru. Before it is welded on it is placed in a vice and compressed or splayed 15 degrees more for a total of 105 degrees. This angle places the cable in line with the shift rod angle. This same piece is welded in place with a 20 degree offset to place the cable end as close as possible to the shift rod. The other piece is the one with two holes drilled in it where the bracket attaches to the tranny. There is a 2mm difference between the center of those two holes which sets the 3rd angle.

Of course I haven't started the clutch but I do have the parts...

Now for the shocker...I COPIED MIKE BELLIS AND BIGKAT.

My plan is to use a Wilwood master cylinder push style (3/4 but we'll talk about that later) with Aeroquip -3AN braided hose with a threaded pressure fitting at the MC end and the required 10mm banjo fitting at the slave cylinder end (using the stock slave cylinder). Have to fab up something at the pedal cluster to compress the master when the clutch is pushed.

In most cases they say match your slave and master cylinders but you really don't have to because the clutch throw will be different. I think Bob mentioned he wished he had a 5/8 at one point and if he has the stock slave it's an 11/16 or 3/4. Might not make much of a difference....I have the part numbers for the fittings and stuff if you need 'em.

Which way are you going on the half shafts? Subie inners and re-splining the axles?

Sure, I'll take part numbers, links and anything else that you have. Yes, I do plan on keeping the suby inners with re-splined bus axles, 944's outers, I think. I just pulled the pedal assm out last nite and began scratching my head. I'm using the same factory slave set up as you.

No problem sir....

Here's what I picked up:

The Wilwood 3/4 bore M/C with remote reservoir.

Looks like this:

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Bought it from this e-bay seller...still there and seems like a good deal.
Wilwood 3/4

Then I pm'ed BIGKAT and Mike Bellis because I didn't understand how to connect the lines to the MC and Slave. BIGKAT reminded me that this isn't very complicated so I shouldn't over-think it and gave me several recommendations. Mike B. recommended using -3AN braided stainless PTFE hose. He also said NOT TO BUY THE CHEAP HOSE so I bought this:

Aeroquip 10ft

Aeroquip is good stuff. Bought 10 feet because Mike pointed out that unless I left some slack I would have to disconnect, drain, reconnect and re-bleed the clutch every time I dropped the engine. And with a conversion we're learning you have to do that a lot at the beginning.

On the MC end you need this fitting:

MC End Compression Fitting

I also thought you needed another "adapter" fitting so I bought several others but this screws right into the fitting that comes with the MC.

For the Subie slave you need a 10MM Banjo fitting I bought this one:

Banjo Fitting

One thing you should know is that it is thicker than the stock Subie fitting, which means you may have to take some material off of it. I have both stock and this one and will post pics so you see what I mean. Might be a non-issue but if so it shouldn't be hard to shave a little off of the loop if need be.

Think that's all I have but I'll check the box later today. I'll also post the pedal setup I was looking at copying...have that link marked somewhere...this is where you come in and show me how to do that. It's REALLLLY cold here so plenty of time to watch you work!

I don't recommend copying anything I do. It might get you in trouble, or worse. What the hell do I know?


Actually, glad I could help. I'm always watching these threads for ideas to steal.

I admire your modesty Mike. You probably don't realize how helpful you are. The questions I asked you were very elementary based on your experience but you responded with a couple of paragraphs of clear, concise information. I only bugged you because there wasn't anything on the site at the time that explained the actual lines and fittings (use the "search" first everybody!) Hope I can help you out someday .

Hey Kent, here's the clutch setup I was looking at copying...

PRS914-6 Clutch

Looks like you flip the fork around the other way and attach it to the MC pin, then cut a hole in the floor (yikes) so it sits similar to the brake MC. LOOKS pretty straight forward but...we'll see. That bracket would be fairly easy to make I would think. Is this the setup you were looking at?

OK last one...Here's that banjo fitting...measured them and the thickness difference is only 1.5MM so it may not be a big deal.

This is the stock fitting compared to the banjo fitting available at Summitracing. Bought the stock setup before I knew what I was doing. You COULD buy the stock fitting (has about 15 inches of braided hose and a threaded end) and then just do a screw-on connector at the end of it. To me that's just another point of failure so just doing the pressure fitting. Plus the stock setup is about $30...with either fitting you need a couple of copper washers for top and bottom as well.

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Height:


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Another angle:

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Wow, your a bloody plethora of info Christopher. I ordered the Wilton cylinder this AM. Before I order from Summit, I thought I would ask how the fitting is joined to the hose. Are mandrels req'd for joining? Yea, I had that write up too but wasn't sure about which mstr cyl to use. I'll note the measurements when I make it and we can exchange notes. I hear you about that cold weather. My shop heater is due in tomorrow. Just in the nick of time. It's been in the 40's & 50's here until this weekend . And Mike, there's no shame in stealing great ideas. At least I hope not. After all, emulation is the most sincere form of flattery.

This is really why I bugged Mike originally. I didn't get how they were joined. It's a pressure fitting apparently...looks fairly easy to assemble. Don't think you need much more than a vice and a wrench and some sort of lubricant. I bought the lube they sell and it comes in a huge bottle...waaaay more than you could ever possibly need. Ever. Happy to send you some if you want just PM me your address.

Check this video....


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PeeflgGlenY



Yeah I'm really good at collecting info. Now I just need to DO SOMETHING WITH IT.

Gas Tank Question: How are you getting ALL the metal shavings out of the tank? That seems like a scary place to have loose metal floating around. (Or will the filter grab it all?)


Just a question on how you're getting fluid to the clutch master:

I'm adding a Wilwood master cylinder to the stock 914 cluster, and thinking about how I'm going to get the fluid there. Since there are two lines out of the brake reservoir, could I use one for the clutch? (With a T if the other IS being used for a return.)

Just trying to think this through. The Wilwood that I bought has a integrated reservoir, so I was going to add an external.

Hmmm...my initial response wasn't quite right so I overwrote it....ours has a remote reservoir....so you just find an attachment point in the trunk very similar to your brake fluid reservoir. Super easy. I wouldn't co-mingle your brake fluid with your clutch fluid...if you lose your clutch pressure your brakes could fail... Plus the Cap'n would have a flippin' heart attack. We don't want that. I'd see if you can add a remote reservoir to the one you have. There has to be some sort of conversion kit available....

This looks like one:

Remote MC

Not saying that's "the one" for you but just an example. Appears to be for large military vehicles....but you get the idea...

Oh it's not a big deal to add one. I think I already bought the kit. Just thinking out loud.

[quote name='CptTripps' date='Dec 16 2013, 12:51 PM' post='1971290']
Gas Tank Question: How are you getting ALL the metal shavings out of the tank? That seems like a scary place to have loose metal floating around. (Or will the filter grab it all?)

Before the 3 openings were closed I hit it with a brush, vacuumed and then stuck an air hose/blow gun in one opening my arm in another and blasted it with compressed air for a few minutes.

NO! NO! NO!

Don't mess with the brake reservoir. If you want to go this route, use a reservoir from a car designed to share with the clutch. Very hard to find. Some Japanese cars did this. The tap for the clutch fluid is near the top of the reservoir. So if it fails you still have brake fluid. If you use a T on the factory reservoir and it fails, you loose your brakes!!! I spent the day at Pick & Pull and could not find one I liked.

I used the Wilwood reservoir since my brakes work very well. Why FUCH with it?

I've been putting this off as I do with all things that confuse me. It felt like waiting for school to let out so the class bully could whip my ass. But just like the proverbial ass whupping, "it 'twern't that bad." Thx to PRS914-6 for previously posting what he had done with the hydraulic set up. It was invaluable. I'm making 2 of these. One for Chris and one for me. Why? Chris is a good guy and has saved me me countless hours thru his perusing Suby articles and............ if it turns to Chris will know it before me because his project is ahead of mine. Devious, yes? Enough Pontificating! Here's how it's done. I used (as always) some scrap 3/16" plate steel and cut it into a few small sections as seen in this pic.

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Then just keep them stacked as the holes are drilled out. This is faster (until one realizes that the prototype is wrong ) and insures correct duplication.

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Some quick test fitting before I go much further...........

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and to locate a spot to hang the reservoir. Real estate beneath the front hood is becoming scarce since I began this conversion. But the hose supplied by Wilwood was the "exact" length necessary. Crazy, huh?

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While I'm in here I think I see a simple solution to the dreaded "brake flex" that I read about. I took this $3.18 weld tab (in SoCal. probably .35 everywhere else) and trimmed appx 1/8" of the tips so that it would set flush against the steering bar....

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a quick polish to prevent cracking

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Then enlarge the existing holes to 8mm (5/16") to match the hole in the weld tab. I'll enlarge both holes although I only need one. Future use.

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looking good

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The original mounting plate is now trimmed to %80 of it's final shape

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I needed to enlarge this plastic bushing to 8mm. Don't try this with a regular 8mm bit. Step drill it with a graduated bit or a suitably fluted bit for plastic. Otherwise, you'll destroy this bushing.

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A few mocked up shots. The Heim joint shown will be replaced with a clevis fitting. Otherwise it is offset too much for my taste.

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I'm happy with the fit for now but I'm not so sure that I won't add something to dampen the sound transfer at some point.

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As mentioned earlier, the hose supplied was just the right length. I used the tab afixed to the tank to mount the reservoir. This took a few minutes as there is not a mm to spare. This manilla paper is almost too thick to squeeze in between.

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Here is your mount, Chris. After the proto is final I will trim it and mail it off to you.

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Some more with it in place. This is pretty much it except for the clevis joint which will be installed in place of the Heim joint; the hose still needs to be slid into place and connected and of course it will need to be tested. If anyone is interested I'll post the dimensions next time.

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