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Chris H.
Wow THANK YOU Kent!!! That's awesome. Hope I can return the favor sometime. I do have a small stash of stuff so lemme know if you've been looking for anything specific. Really glad the parts list helped. Your setup looks fantastic!

And YES PLEASE on the dimensions, whenever you get a chance. Great idea to do the brace BTW. Looks really clean.
ruby914
Nice.
Mike Bellis
I'm having a problem with my Wilwood reservoir. It is leaking where the 2 halves clamp together. I haven't pulled it yet to see if it's cracked. sad.gif

I followed the instructions and warmed it up before fitting. I'm going to look for a one piece unit... dry.gif
CptTripps
That's awesome. One question though...

What are the differences between a clevis fitting and a healm joint?
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QUOTE(Chris H. @ Jan 4 2014, 11:52 AM) *

Wow THANK YOU Kent!!! That's awesome. Hope I can return the favor sometime. I do have a small stash of stuff so lemme know if you've been looking for anything specific. Really glad the parts list helped. Your setup looks fantastic!

And YES PLEASE on the dimensions, whenever you get a chance. Great idea to do the brace BTW. Looks really clean.

Thank you! Dimensions will be posted later this week once my head clears out. Caught a GD cold on the flight back headbang.gif

QUOTE(ruby914 @ Jan 4 2014, 08:49 PM) *

Nice.

Thanks Mike. I try to follow the CSOB route and if that doesn't work I go the KISS route. biggrin.gif

QUOTE(CptTripps @ Jan 4 2014, 09:56 PM) *

That's awesome. One question though...

What are the differences between a clevis fitting and a healm joint?

About 3/8 of an inch, Doug. The Heim joint will bolt to either side but I located the clutch MC for a clevis which is centered on the arm and not to one side or the other. The clevis would work had I located the MC for it originally. I forgot to mention that the 12mm bolt head (you see in the last 2 pics) which is centered in the hole to the right side of the screen has purpose. It's necessary to remove the clutch MC from the pedal assembly, if you want to leave the pedal cluster and brake MC in place when servicing. The lower bolt is accessible from beneath the car.
BIGKAT_83
Nice job Kent. smilie_pokal.gif smilie_pokal.gif

I was doing the same thing last week for a friends 914. I used a Honda civic master cylinder. These can be gotten at any auto parts store new for less than $25.
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On my Subaru conversion I used a wilwood master like yours but I used the 2 mounts on the side of the cylinder and made a mount for them and welded that to the front suspension cross member.
nsyr
I used the honda master cylinder too. Can't beat the price.
76-914
Here are the dimensions for those interested. All dimensions are "mm" except for the 2, 1 1/2" dia. holes. Plate is 3/16" mild steel.

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***NOTE*** The dotted bend line should read 3 Degrees NOT 30 Degrees

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Hey Chris, this one's got your name on it. PM your address.

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This one's mine. You can paint yours any color you want.

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CptTripps
I'd pay for one.

...just sayin'

Great thread. Thanks!
Chris H.
Top notch man...thanks again. Might just clear coat it to remember the kind gesture. beerchug.gif Nice measurements too. Sounds like you could make a few more if you feel like it (but you might not).

Hey you're almost out of hard stuff to do! Almost time to fill that thing with water.
CptTripps
Just thinking out loud: I wonder if it'd make sense to use a different Master Cylinder with vertical bolts for the brakes. Since the horizontal bolts is a lot of the reason for the flex down there. If we're building replacement plates and welding them in anyways...
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QUOTE(CptTripps @ Jan 12 2014, 05:51 AM) *

Just thinking out loud: I wonder if it'd make sense to use a different Master Cylinder with vertical bolts for the brakes. Since the horizontal bolts is a lot of the reason for the flex down there. If we're building replacement plates and welding them in anyways...

Hey thanks Chris. Pay back for the time you saved me. piratenanner.gif
Doug, check post #202. Mike has a pic in his reply that shows the brace. It could be located on the left or right side of clutch MC but I chose the left side which puts it in between the brake & clutch MC's, This should be more than enough reinforcement. I wouldn't think of welding the plate to the floor unless I had TIG. Too much difference in mass.
I don't mind helping a friend out but making and selling these things is a horse of a different color. I might consider handing over (though it is now public domain lol-2.gif )the thing to Erc (PMB) or someone else that is insured out the Kazoo against such liabilities. It's like the difference between sharing a joint with a friend and selling pounds to strangers. lol-2.gif av-943.gif laugh.gif
If 10/more people wanted one of these I would do a step by step video. All you need is a 1.5" hole saw and some misc. bits, a vise and drill. A smart phone "Level App" is handy for setting the 3 degrees incidence but that can actually be done by hand once mounted.
If the MC was 1/2" shorter it could be made w/o the twist. Material costs < $10. beerchug.gif
CptTripps
10-4. I completely understand.

I may attempt myself then. If you're OK with it being posted here (even though you already did) I'll make up a PDF that is 1:1 that someone could print and use as a template.
CptTripps
There are a few dimensions I'm missing, but I think I have it overall. Would you be kind enough to print this out and see if it matches the real piece you have?

I don't have dimensions for:

- Small Hole Diameters
- Distancees for A, B, C, D and E

This should be 210mm from side to side when you print it out.
76-914
I've had a change of heart. My previous comments did not take Cap'n Crusty's niece into consideration. I have 2 blanks left and will sell them drilled out w/ bolts, nuts and standoff brace for $55, shipping included. The clevis is appx $10 with shipping on ebay. For an additional $45 + shipping, I will #1,set it up on your pedal assm, #2,remove the spring and replace it with a spacer. So all you do is drill 2 holes in the floorboard. Payments shall be made to the Cap'n paypal acct and he can tell me when he is paid.

I'll be happy to get you those dimensions when I come up for air. May be a few days. I still need to complete a most generous project of Tim's (our resident gage lighting specialist) that is going to one of our members widow. Can't wait to take some pic's and show off another of Tim's talents here.
CptTripps
I'm in! PM Sent...
Chris H.
Well that's really nice of you. I know mine's not part of this deal but I'm in for $100 to help the lovely Sarah. Planned to donate anyway but now I have to get off my butt and do it TODAY. beerchug.gif
76-914
One left.
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Shifting gears and moving onto the exhaust barf.gif I wonder if I should address the drive shafts before I paint myself into a corner. Opinions from those that have gone before me? idea.gif

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Chris H.
Remember I haven't DRIVEN mine but the way it is set up is:

Inner CV = FEMALE Subie (2002-2004) which is fine for you because your trans already has stub axles so it's set up for female CVs
Axle = Ians or re-splined 914 axle on one side to accept said Subie CV
Outer = the stock 914 CV....or you could upgrade to 944 if you pop a stock CV or two.

The other option is the "magic flange", which is fine too. Not sure about availability. The Subie CV is very strong so that's why I went with it.

I did a poor job of documenting this part of the build but here is a terrible pic of one of mine:

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The Subie female CV is on the left, then the custom axle, then the 914 CV. I read on NASIOC NEVER to use the aftermarket Subie CV's. Always buy a used stock OEM CV even though they are about the same price as a new or rebuilt non OEM one. I got my axle pair for $50 and they were totally fine.

Also when you do the Subie CV you don't need to lock the axle in with the lock washer...you let it float. Weird but apparently it's fine.
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QUOTE(Chris H. @ Jan 16 2014, 12:34 PM) *

Remember I haven't DRIVEN mine but the way it is set up is:

Inner CV = FEMALE Subie (2002-2004) which is fine for you because your trans already has stub axles so it's set up for female CVs
Axle = Ians or re-splined 914 axle on one side to accept said Subie CV
Outer = the stock 914 CV....or you could upgrade to 944 if you pop a stock CV or two.

The other option is the "magic flange", which is fine too. Not sure about availability. The Subie CV is very strong so that's why I went with it.

I did a poor job of documenting this part of the build but here is a terrible pic of one of mine:

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The Subie female CV is on the left, then the custom axle, then the 914 CV. I read on NASIOC NEVER to use the aftermarket Subie CV's. Always buy a used stock OEM CV even though they are about the same price as a new or rebuilt non OEM one. I got my axle pair for $50 and they were totally fine.

Also when you do the Subie CV you don't need to lock the axle in with the lock washer...you let it float. Weird but apparently it's fine.

Chris, I was under the impression the stock 914 shaft was too small to re-spline and that it req'd using a bus or 944 axle. Just want to clarify this before I get some 914 shafts. I have the stock Suby 1/2 shafts/CV's and had planned on re-using the Suby CV's. TIA
Chris H.
You may be right on that Kent...sorry I had not picked up on it before. I bought Ian's setup. Bob would know for sure and I do recall something about him mentioning bus axles...didn't know the reason but that may be what it was.
BIGKAT_83
Stock 914 axles are fine. I've had 3 sets done and just found some one else to do them local.
76-914
Geez. How easy is that? Quite honestly my head was swimming with all I've read. Thanks guys pray.gif
BIGKAT_83
Stock 914 axles are fine. I've had 3 sets done and just found some one else to do them local.
Chris H.
One quick tip for ya...

If you already have female Subie CV's you just have to take them off the Subie axles. The way you do that is undo the larger end of the CV boot and peel it back a bit. The joint will be very loose then and you will be tempted to slide the axle off the female inner CV end. BUT WAIT....there is a retaining ring that you have to remove first that is in the end of the CV bell. Here's a pic:

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Just feel around at the lip of the open end, you'll find it. It's in there loosely, you can take it out without any tools. If you just slide the bell up without taking that out it will catch at the end. A guy I know very well just yanked at it and bent the hell out of the retaining ring before he figured out it was there. Once the two pieces are separated you will see a smaller retaining clip that holds that triple-headed bearing to the axle, just pry that sucker off and you're good.

And prepare for a HUGE GREASY MESS!!! I'm sure you've done CV's before.
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QUOTE(Chris H. @ Jan 17 2014, 05:38 AM) *

One quick tip for ya...

If you already have female Subie CV's you just have to take them off the Subie axles. The way you do that is undo the larger end of the CV boot and peel it back a bit. The joint will be very loose then and you will be tempted to slide the axle off the female inner CV end. BUT WAIT....there is a retaining ring that you have to remove first that is in the end of the CV bell. Here's a pic:

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Just feel around at the lip of the open end, you'll find it. It's in there loosely, you can take it out without any tools. If you just slide the bell up without taking that out it will catch at the end. A guy I know very well just yanked at it and bent the hell out of the retaining ring before he figured out it was there. Once the two pieces are separated you will see a smaller retaining clip that holds that triple-headed bearing to the axle, just pry that sucker off and you're good.

And prepare for a HUGE GREASY MESS!!! I'm sure you've done CV's before.

WOW! Perfect and great timing. Thx Chris. That saved me headaches and time. To quote Jeff Daniel's from the movie Dumb and Dumber, "You have totally redeemed yourself". Not that you needed redeeming. lol-2.gif
76-914
Back to the pedal assm. I found some adjustment of the clutch travel is necessary. The clutch master cylinder has a max of 1 1/8" travel and I was going past that. The fix is simple. This only takes a few min's. Chris and Doug, yours should be the same.
Loosen the jam nut then screw the pedal arm into it's receiver as far as it will go. Now check your travel. It should be 1" now. If not, adjust accordingly. Then tighten the jam nut, tightly. Now add a nut to the bottom (as shown in pic) with locktite. You could spot weld it but you may want to remove it one day.This will add some area to the end which will be stop. The floor board has an indentation that will accept this "foot" perfectly. It's hard to see in the pic's but it's there.

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Disregard this conglomeration on the end of the pedal shaft. I discovered later that it was not needed, only one 14mm x 1.5 nut.

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Up postion

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Down and seated

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This pic shows the clevis connection (you should have about 8mm of threads protruding from the clevis. Note the washer inside the clevis. This was done to fill the void and to throw the rod a bit to the side for clearance. I trimmed the throttle piece (and IIRC so did pcar) which gives me a clean 8mm separation between clutch and throttle linkages. Notice the 19mm spacer in place of the return spring.

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And some trimming of the throttle linkage

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skeates
It looks like you matched the master cylinder size to the stock Subaru clutch? With the Wilwood are you getting enough travel to fully disengage the clutch at the tranny? I think that the stock slave cylinder has a .75" diameter so the ratio comes out to be something like .833 and (if I've done the math correctly) that would result in a maximum of 1.1" of travel to the clutch fork. I don't know what the lever ratio is for the clutch fork so I don't know what that amounts to in terms of travel for the throw-out bearing. I'm just curious if you knew how much travel is required to full disengage the clutch? 1" seems like it should be plenty....?

p.s. I'm about to purchase a clutch master for my project and don't have a clutch to play with to get the measurements so I was hoping you might have them shades.gif
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QUOTE(skeates @ Jan 20 2014, 02:57 PM) *

It looks like you matched the master cylinder size to the stock Subaru clutch? With the Wilwood are you getting enough travel to fully disengage the clutch at the tranny? I think that the stock slave cylinder has a .75" diameter so the ratio comes out to be something like .833 and (if I've done the math correctly) that would result in a maximum of 1.1" of travel to the clutch fork. I don't know what the lever ratio is for the clutch fork so I don't know what that amounts to in terms of travel for the throw-out bearing. I'm just curious if you knew how much travel is required to full disengage the clutch? 1" seems like it should be plenty....?

p.s. I'm about to purchase a clutch master for my project and don't have a clutch to play with to get the measurements so I was hoping you might have them shades.gif

The Wilwood master is 3/4" also. Everything is theory, now. ChrisH should have his connected in another week or so and maybe he can video the actual combination at work. What measurements do you need. I'm a notorious procrastinator and might take several days.
skeates
I guess I'm looking for the distance that the slave cylinder needs to travel in order to disengage the clutch. On mine I don't have a clutch or pressure plate yet so I can't make any measurements except to note that the clutch fork has easily 2" of travel (about 1 inch in either direction).

Sounds like you will have a one to one rato on your system which will give you almost 1.5". I imagine that will be plenty. I'm just paranoid about getting the wrong size without doing the math.
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The 7/8" hose arrived today and the 3/4" will be here Friday. I had resigned myself to running the hose beneath the car but the more I thought about it the more I convinced myself I can do this as originally planned; thru the longs. I used this old 2" wet vac hose for a couple of things. First was to thread the pull line thru the long so I ran the rope thru the hose and this plug with a knot in the end.

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Started in the cabin and by gently pushing and twisting the vac hose it passes easily thru the long.

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Then I tied one end of the rope in the cabin and pulled the vac hose out thru the engine compartment leaving only the line inside the long. After I drilled a small hole in the end of the hose I threaded the pull line thru the hose.

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Using the curve in the hose I threaded it in engine side while pulling on the line until this.

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Then I threaded a 12" piece of the 2" vac hose back over the heater hose and thru the "90" to prevent the hose from kinking. The fit is so close that it enables me to make tighter turns.

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This is the larger and hotter of the 2 hoses so I'm running it in the pass long but I'm hoping that the way it's run will aid in not heating the long too much. I cut a piece of this 3" wet vac hose using the male end which fits very tightly inside the 90. I passed the other end thru the old hole into the area below the WWW reservoir. Inside this I added a piece of 2" so it is double walled. The greater pressure in the front compartment will pass somewhat thru the long and hopefully exhaust some heat. Here the 3" is slid over the heater hose and into the 90.

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A shot of the tight fit I mentioned

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A look from the other side.

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And the piece of 2" before it is placed inside the 3" to make it double walled.

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And with it threaded in. There will be another tight turn here and I want it for support as well.

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Now with the original grommet back in place. A good seal will be necessary if I want to exhaust some of that heat.

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And with the reservoir back in place

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Real estate in this area is getting scarce. dry.gif

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Chris H.
beerchug.gif Alriiiiight!!! Now it's getting serious!

In continuation of the "bromance" you started I'm sending you some water wetter. Supposed to reduce temps a bit. I know Bob and others have confirmed it's pretty easy to cool a Subie but when you go through the longs you might get a little bump up.



CptTripps
I was thinking of going through the longs as well. The idea I was going to try involved fire retardant "Great Stuff" foam injected into the longs after the hose was installed. I'm back/forth on it still.

There's also the idea of wrapping the tube with the stuff you use for headers and tailpipes. I bought a bunch of that to use at one time. Maybe it'll get put to good use here?

Is there anyone that can tell me how hot the longs get without adding anything to help with the heat?
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QUOTE(Chris H. @ Feb 7 2014, 05:21 AM) *

beerchug.gif Alriiiiight!!! Now it's getting serious!

In continuation of the "bromance" you started I'm sending you some water wetter. Supposed to reduce temps a bit. I know Bob and others have confirmed it's pretty easy to cool a Subie but when you go through the longs you might get a little bump up.

Thx Chris. That's super nice of you. I'm finished with the hydraulic clutch set up sans another AN3 90. Once that's in I'll finish up that portion of the post. Thanks for your help with the MC selection.

QUOTE(CptTripps @ Feb 7 2014, 05:56 AM) *

I was thinking of going through the longs as well. The idea I was going to try involved fire retardant "Great Stuff" foam injected into the longs after the hose was installed. I'm back/forth on it still.

There's also the idea of wrapping the tube with the stuff you use for headers and tailpipes. I bought a bunch of that to use at one time. Maybe it'll get put to good use here?


Hey Doug, you might trap moisture using foam fillers and I don't think wrapping it will help with sliding it thru the long. I really don't expect any heat issues but I'm putting it on my wife's side. She's always complaining about the cold. happy11.gif
Chris H.
Yeah Doug the foam might be a bad idea...hate to see you get water trapped in that pretty car. If you fish the hoses through the heater tubes I'd think the heat transfer would be minimal but could be wrong...it's not touching the long directly for the most part right confused24.gif

BTW I'll search the stash this weekend for door handles, thanx for the LED mirror turn signals! Bromance #2.... w00t.gif
CptTripps
I was more thinking about foaming the inside of the heater tube, once the radiator tube is installed. No real chance of water doing damage to a rubber tube, inside of another tube. I wouldn't want to fill up the long, unless I was 100% certain that I wasn't going to have any way for water to get in there. Most modern car frames are filled with foam without issue. (Although they weren't build with shitty seam welds in the 1970s.)

I'm at least a month away from needing to care about this, so I'll 'wait and see' what I can come up with between now and then.
JRust
I had mine run through the longs originally on my v8. It is damn near impossible to get all the air out of the system. The whole burping process is kind of a bitch. Much worse when you add an extra peak to the setup. If you are going to do it that way. I would do something to add a valve at the top by your gas tank on both sides. Not sure that will even get it all but it will sure help. You are also making your water pump work that much harder. Everyone hates them running under the car for some reason. I won't do it another way now. Although I have considered cutting the top off the center tunnel. Adding a good inch of height to the side. Then insulating & running them through the car. Also making the top of the tunnel a removable deal idea.gif

As nice as you think it will be using the heater run in the longs. I can guarantee it will work better under your car. On my v8 I couldn't get it to cool consitently until I moved them under the car. Easy straight shot for running your hose & easier for your water pump to move all that water. Your already asking your water pump to push more water than it is designed for blink.gif . With a Suby it may work just fine though. It isn't as much work to cool them as an old school v8. Can't wait to see how it comes out biggrin.gif
skeates
I don't think the problem is that we are pumping "more" water than the pumps are designed for. The volume in the system does increase, but the gpm stays the same. Since it's an enclosed system there is no static head to speak of, so the pump won't notice the additional volume...sort of... We are in effect increasing the pumping head by adding more tubing length. Looking at some generic hose pressure drop chart you could be adding as much as 50 psi more head on the pump (assuming 10 feet of additional length, 3/4" hose, and 60 gpm)! More head = less flow at a given RPM = less ability to cool the motor. Interestingly, if you are running 1" hose for the same length and gpm the pressure drop is only 12 psi. Moral of the story here is to size your hose a bit bigger than stock (in my opinion).

I agree with Jamie that the way those hoses are currently routed will make bleeding the system a pain. I'm also wondering if that Gates hose can make that tight 90 degree bend at the front of the long without collapsing (pinching). I'm running the McMaster Carr variant hose and I know it would be pinching really bad with that tight of a radius. A pinch in the hose would mean certain cooling problems (massive flow reduction and likely flashing of the coolant inside the hose). I would double check that before committing - maybe the Gates hose can take tighter bends?
skeates
QUOTE(skeates @ Jan 20 2014, 07:37 PM) *

I guess I'm looking for the distance that the slave cylinder needs to travel in order to disengage the clutch. On mine I don't have a clutch or pressure plate yet so I can't make any measurements except to note that the clutch fork has easily 2" of travel (about 1 inch in either direction).

Sounds like you will have a one to one rato on your system which will give you almost 1.5". I imagine that will be plenty. I'm just paranoid about getting the wrong size without doing the math.



I don't know if it is useful at all, but I ended up answering my own question using my dad's Subaru outback. I had him push in the clutch while I measured the travel at the clutch fork and it only needed .5". Sheesh, that' nothing! So, it seems that any of the Wilwood clutch masters would work on the length of travel. It's really just a matter of picking how much mechanical advantage you want (smaller master = more mechanical advantage).
mgp4591
QUOTE(skeates @ Feb 7 2014, 06:37 PM) *

I don't think the problem is that we are pumping "more" water than the pumps are designed for. The volume in the system does increase, but the gpm stays the same. Since it's an enclosed system there is no static head to speak of, so the pump won't notice the additional volume...sort of... We are in effect increasing the pumping head by adding more tubing length. Looking at some generic hose pressure drop chart you could be adding as much as 50 psi more head on the pump (assuming 10 feet of additional length, 3/4" hose, and 60 gpm)! More head = less flow at a given RPM = less ability to cool the motor. Interestingly, if you are running 1" hose for the same length and gpm the pressure drop is only 12 psi. Moral of the story here is to size your hose a bit bigger than stock (in my opinion).

I agree with Jamie that the way those hoses are currently routed will make bleeding the system a pain. I'm also wondering if that Gates hose can make that tight 90 degree bend at the front of the long without collapsing (pinching). I'm running the McMaster Carr variant hose and I know it would be pinching really bad with that tight of a radius. A pinch in the hose would mean certain cooling problems (massive flow reduction and likely flashing of the coolant inside the hose). I would double check that before committing - maybe the Gates hose can take tighter bends?

I was thinking the same about the increased pumping pressure and wondered if an auxiliary pump could be beneficial at around the halfway point, say the radiator outlet, effectively working to draw the fluid through the radiator and push it back to the engine helping the stock water pump do it's job. An additional bleed port would help at the radiator inlet also being the high point with a bleed tube fished thru the bodywork beneath. Jus' thinkin'... idea.gif
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A lot of good input and thus far things I have already considered. No substitute for experience, though! Jamie, I'm hoping that all goes well with the long install but I won't know until it's running. The only issue I expect might come into play is distance and the number of turns added. OIOW, increased drag. Head pressure will not be an issue with the closed system. I've anticipated the air trap's and will install vents @ the high points on both sides of the cabin if necessary.
Skeates, I should not have to worry about the line kinking. That is the purpose of using the 2" vac hose. It keeps the hose round when making tight turns.
Most of what I've read said I'm headed in the wrong direction but I'm going to try it anyway (I'm 1/2 English and 1/2 Dutch = pedigree hard head) . If I'm wrong it's easy enough to route it beneath the car. But if it works then it is a much cleaner install and aesthetically pleasing to the eyes.
So, to continue down this path I have completed the "run" from engine to radiator on the left side. This left side will be run a bit different than the right side because of the radiator in/outs locations. The left side will have 1 high spot which is in the front next to the gas tank. The right side which is the top hose (to both rad and engine) will have 2 high spots. One in the engine bay and one in the front compartment. Here are a few pic's of the left side's route.

As you can see in these next 3 pic's, the hose lines up perfectly with the inlet after exiting the long. No up or down travel, yet.

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And just like the right side it is double sleeved and goes thru the old duct hole.

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Once inside the front compartment it turns and goes out the fender. Another tight turn but the vac hose keeps it from crimping. (FYI; a 90 degree elbow is = 12' lineal piping. blink.gif ) Notice the metal sleeve. I put that there so the fender wouldn't eat a hole in the hose and it gives it some support. From inside......

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And from the wheel well

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Then it hugs the wheel well behind the shock (where there is no chance of contact with the tire or rim)

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It hugs the wall until it passes thru the fender. There will be another sleeve placed here as it was above.

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from the inside

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Even though the car is "jacked up" it is difficult to see once installed. It will still need to clamped and secured into place. I suspect only a midget or someone in a go kart would see it.

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Onward thru the Fog! "Oat Willie"
ruby914
Kent,
I used 1.25" ID hose, in and out. I recall referencing the Subaru engineered output ID and reluctantly reduced it down. I am not saying 3/4" will not work but it seems small.
I have thought about rerouting my lines behind the rocker panel. I have room over the jack point. It would need putting a bulge in the rocker panel to get around the boxed in area at the lower door jam. Then, I think, I would have to go under the car from there.
With 3/4" hose, I think this route would be much easier for you. You may be able to do it with out a rocker mod and up the top of the inner fender well.
76-914
QUOTE(ruby914 @ Feb 9 2014, 10:19 AM) *

Kent,
I used 1.25" ID hose, in and out. I recall referencing the Subaru engineered output ID and reluctantly reduced it down. I am not saying 3/4" will not work but it seems small.
I have thought about rerouting my lines behind the rocker panel. I have room over the jack point. It would need putting a bulge in the rocker panel to get around the boxed in area at the lower door jam. Then, I think, I would have to go under the car from there.
With 3/4" hose, I think this route would be much easier for you. You may be able to do it with out a rocker mod and up the top of the inner fender well.

Hey Mike, I was just looking at some old pic's of you in the "what da ya look like" forum. I'll have to post some of my "Redneck Hippie" pic's. av-943.gif Anywho, I'm emulating BigKat's cooling system, somewhat. I do know that he is running 7/8 & 3/4 with good results. It will be interesting to see my results. If it runs too hot the way I've routed the lines vs a str8 shot beneath the car I would think those sizes were marginal. I'm sure many gremlins await me but at least I won't have to find a place to land when they do; just pull over. smile.gif I will go over the fender well on the right side but that is to reduce snaking it up 'n down . It comes off the top of the engine, goes down then thru the long, then up as shown in previous pic. I need to get my hood back on to check clearance as far as going over the wheel well. That one is 7/8 ID so we'll see. dry.gif May have some sawzall-smiley.gif & welder.gif to do.
jimkelly
sheath that rubber hose where ever you can. it can wear surprisingly fast when rubbing against metal/etc.
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Will do, Jimbo. I didn't have much time today and managed to waste most of what I had. I did however reach a "firing solution" as to the right side's route. It would have been easier to run it in the wheel well but this should make burping it easier. I laid this piece across what I thought was the lowest area and closed the hood. Much to my surprise the hood closed.

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I wondered if the hose had just flattened down and allowed the hood to close so I laid this putty about and took a few measurements here and there. And sure enough... see the flat spots in the putty and the corresponding witness mark on the hood.

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This seemed to be the best location to cut because it was between the tank and shock tower.

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a patch piece

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primed and ready to be welded in

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BIGKAT_83
Kent I'll need the end of the subaru axle and the star race for the Subaru CV joint.
If your using the 914 stock axles there is no need to send them. I have plenty here.
I was surprized at how easy it was to cut my subaru axle. About 30 seconds with a 4" cut off wheel.
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QUOTE(BIGKAT_83 @ Feb 10 2014, 06:26 PM) *

Kent I'll need the end of the subaru axle and the star race for the Subaru CV joint.
If your using the 914 stock axles there is no need to send them. I have plenty here.
I was surprized at how easy it was to cut my subaru axle. About 30 seconds with a 4" cut off wheel.
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Thx Bob, PM sent. I cut mine on a 12" chop saw and your right, it goes quick.
CptTripps
Rather than all the 'up/down/up/down' would it be better to go through and under the fuel tank, then across to the longs? I'm planning this out right now too. Was thinking of welding up a tube to the frame so in not worried about a soft/hot hose in the cabin.
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QUOTE(CptTripps @ Feb 11 2014, 03:13 AM) *

Rather than all the 'up/down/up/down' would it be better to go through and under the fuel tank, then across to the longs? I'm planning this out right now too. Was thinking of welding up a tube to the frame so in not worried about a soft/hot hose in the cabin.

If this doesn't work then I will go beneath the tank and run exposed below. Not sure what you mean by thru the tank but pretty sure you didn't mean you would weld a tube thru it. lol-2.gif I was going to weld some tube as conduit thru the wheel well but I stopped myself. happy11.gif Don't worry about the hot hose. poke.gif In fact, in your climate I'm surprised that you aren't taking advantage of this heat source and installing radiant heating in your teener. lol-2.gif I did put some time and effort into running them down the tunnel, which by the way is doable if you've converted to cable shift & hydraulic clutch. It would have involved opening some areas to remove some weld tabs and enlarging an opening in the bulkhead.
Here are some quick shots of the patch piece welded in. I need to weld up the back part next time I pull the gas tank and clean up the lower front weld. That should be very soon as I expect the front sway bar to be here within days. (Thx Garold)

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This will get me flamed and yes I have a galvanic chart but I have them on hand and the copper fittings can be changed out for aluminium or brass ones later. I soldered "copper rings" onto it to prevent slipping. This fitting will serve as one of the air vent fittings.

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