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76-914
QUOTE(CptTripps @ Feb 11 2014, 03:13 AM) *

Rather than all the 'up/down/up/down' would it be better to go through and under the fuel tank, then across to the longs? I'm planning this out right now too. Was thinking of welding up a tube to the frame so in not worried about a soft/hot hose in the cabin.

After re-reading your post Doug I don't think you should worry. Those "soft hot hoes in the cabin" pose no threat unless your wife were to intervene. shades.gif

Back to work............. take a look at this fender. 41 yr old paint.

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!0 min's on each fender with a foam polishing disc (left over HF Lens Polishing Kit) some 3M compound

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I dug out the sand blaster and hit the front sway bar pieces (thx Garold S) and hit these 2 pieces while I was at it. Primed and painted. Ready for install.

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And as long as I was getting paint on myself I applied the Bed Liner to the front radiator area. I wanted something more than paint in this area and it was free.

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It was necessary to trim the pan a tad. I may or may not make a clam shell cover. The 4 body bolts keep it very steady but.................

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JRust
Wow your radiator is so stealth I don't even see it evilgrin.gif You'll have to tell me your secret blink.gif
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76-914
oops

76-914
This is how the 7/8" return line ties into the 1.25". A 3/4" coupling is inserted into the 7/8"

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Then the 7/8" hose is inserted in to the 1.25" and clamped in place.

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Jumping back a bit I finally finished the clutch sans fluid. A quick check for fit..........

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I remembered reading that SS sheathed hoses often fail because road grime gets inside and wears thru the Teflon liner. I should have used heat shrink but I used electrical tape. Either one should make a big difference in this area, for sure.

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Found this on ebay for $9. It has an 1 1/8" throat which is exactly the same size as the o.d. of 1" copper tube.

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This is the manifold that will connect the 2ea. - 1.25" outlets from the suby engine. (It has one inlet and 2 outlets). I came out of the top of the tee with the fill riser (as seen below) but after thinking about it that tee will be replaced with a long radius 90 then the tee will be re-installed. I think it should greatly improve the flow over a sharp turn that would occur in the tee. I'll post it when I change it. So just know this will change a tad.

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Now you can see what I'm after. This fill cap should be the highest point in the car and for sure, in the engine compartment. It is attached to 2 1.25" horizontal hoses which combined are about 18" in length. This will be anchored later or it would fall down. However, I will make some anchor that is easily removable in case that I need to pull up on it for venting/burping purposes.

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For the most part the work is all but finished in the front trunk area. There may be some additional cutting/venting once it's running. There are a few wires to connect with the Suby wires once I fall back into the wiring phase again. barf.gif I think it was Skeates who mentioned he was tired of playing Concentration with himself when describing the wiring. av-943.gif lol-2.gif laugh.gif Very well put. Overall I'm happy with the way this area has turned out. I forgot to mention that I have about a 3"x 2' x 16" area beneath the radiator that can store tools, etc. And there should be room for a collapsible spare to boot. (would that be a pun in England?)

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76-914
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Then I moved on to the floor pans. I had plenty more bed liner so I did this area in it also. Besides, it's some tough shit and this area can stand a little extra protection.

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Ross, this is the controller that you need. It was a convenient time for me to snap this shot for you. Everyone else is saying, "What the Hell did he put that in there for?" lol-2.gif

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Oops, forgot this shot of the cold inlet tie in at the engine.

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Guess what's next on my list?

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rnellums
Kent,

Are there any markings on the box or is it just plain?

Also, I thought I had read that using copper in the coolant system with an aluminum black could cause sacrificial corrosion of the engine. Have you heard anything about that? It would be awful nice to be able to use a copper tee for my 1.25" hose. I have been having a devil of a time finding an aluminum one.

-Ross
76-914
QUOTE(rnellums @ Feb 26 2014, 08:15 PM) *

Kent,

Are there any markings on the box or is it just plain?

Also, I thought I had read that using copper in the coolant system with an aluminum black could cause sacrificial corrosion of the engine. Have you heard anything about that? It would be awful nice to be able to use a copper tee for my 1.25" hose. I have been having a devil of a time finding an aluminum one.

-Ross

Jags that Run doesn't have one? Yea, I read some thing too but couldn't find it. IIRC, the more noble the more sacrificial. And then mass must play some role. This is just messing around as I plan to look at it a year later. This entire project is experimental to some degree and I expect some failure. Cheap failures I hope. I would expect that the copper would die first. If I have it backwards I should find aluminum deposits on the copper. I think I should ground one of the copper fittings to the body and compare it with the others a year later. idea.gif I remember looking at the chart and thinking that they were not that far apart except for voltage values. Maybe this is what I'm missing. Also, Bro Chris sent me a bottle of water wetter. It tastes like shit so I'm going to put it in my engine instead. It claims to reduce this effect. If you find that article shoot me the link.
I'll get the markings and pm you manana.
CptTripps
Outstanding progress. One quick question though:

Which bed liner did you end up using? That's on my list, and I don't want to use what I used last time.
skeates
QUOTE(76-914 @ Feb 26 2014, 05:27 PM) *

I think it was Skeates who mentioned he was tired of playing Concentration with himself when describing the wiring. av-943.gif lol-2.gif laugh.gif Very well put.


Twas not I who coined that one, but I'll take the credit. happy11.gif

Looks like you are making some good progress. I'm particularly interested in seeing how your cooling solution works out as it is much easier to run those smaller diameter hoses. I also went with the 1.25" hose to keep things close to the stock sizes, but it sounds like there may be a significant amount of wiggle room there. Keep up this momentum and you'll be driving before you know it!
Chris H.
idea.gif I'm re-thinking what size pipe to run under the car too...was going with 1 1/4 as well but if that isn't necessary I'll go smaller. Much easier to bend the smaller it is (insert easy joke response here....).

Great progress Kent! BTW guys can you coat the inside of that copper with anything that would keep it from reacting/breaking down into the water? Or slow it down enough to make it less of an issue?

AfricanHijinx
what bed liner did you use? I used some duplicolor stuff from the FLAPS and it was garbage it scratched pretty quick
ruby914
QUOTE(skeates @ Feb 27 2014, 08:45 AM) *

QUOTE(76-914 @ Feb 26 2014, 05:27 PM) *

I think it was Skeates who mentioned he was tired of playing Concentration with himself when describing the wiring. av-943.gif lol-2.gif laugh.gif Very well put.


Twas not I who coined that one, but I'll take the credit. happy11.gif

Looks like you are making some good progress. I'm particularly interested in seeing how your cooling solution works out as it is much easier to run those smaller diameter hoses. I also went with the 1.25" hose to keep things close to the stock sizes, but it sounds like there may be a significant amount of wiggle room there. Keep up this momentum and you'll be driving before you know it!


I think that was Scott Amenson on his MIA 2014 come back.


I still have $200 worth of copper that I pulled out of my car. Going to make a wind chime. aktion035.gif
I had mine all suspended by rubber. Thought I could get around it. I think it was Porsharu that sent me this PDF? May have saved my butt.
I didn't want all my work rotting from within.
rnellums
For my joints, I bout some aluminum extenders off amazon, but the tee required for the EZ30 is what is killing me (one cold return @1.5" but TWO outlets @ 1.25"!)
76-914
QUOTE(CptTripps @ Feb 27 2014, 01:42 AM) *

Outstanding progress. One quick question though:

Which bed liner did you end up using? That's on my list, and I don't want to use what I used last time.

Monstaliner. I think it came from JEGS. I traded my "flucks" core welder to my buddy for 2 gallons of this stuff. JEGS gave it to him because they shipped the wrong colour. Win Win. I think this stuff needs to go on thick if you want durability. I did this in the front trunk area for obvious reasons. The pans were just a couple of coats. It will be covered and didn't need to be tough.

QUOTE(Chris H. @ Feb 27 2014, 09:24 AM) *

idea.gif I'm re-thinking what size pipe to run under the car too...was going with 1 1/4 as well but if that isn't necessary I'll go smaller. Much easier to bend the smaller it is (insert easy joke response here....).


Chris and other concerned souls: this comes from the horse's, or in this case the KAT's, mouth. Bob (BIGKAT83) was kind enough to share his set up. He is running SS braided lines w/ AN fittings but other than the material choice, the sizes are the same. As I said somewhere back; I don't expect the hose size will be a problem. And if there is a cooling problem I will suspect my choice of routing and additional turns that I added. Bob also twinned the 1.25 into a 3/4 line. This setup has served his 3.3 and 3.0 engines. Just be sure both 1.25 hoses are identical in every respect. IOW, the T should be in the middle and if one side goes 8" turns 90 degrees then 5" the other side should be the same. Helps to balance the flow.
Great progress Kent! BTW guys can you coat the inside of that copper with anything that would keep it from reacting/breaking down into the water? Or slow it down enough to make it less of an issue?

QUOTE(AfricanHijinx @ Feb 27 2014, 10:03 AM) *

what bed liner did you use? I used some duplicolor stuff from the FLAPS and it was garbage it scratched pretty quick

Hijinx, see above. Capt tripps had the same ??? beerchug.gif

QUOTE(ruby914 @ Feb 27 2014, 10:35 AM) *

QUOTE(skeates @ Feb 27 2014, 08:45 AM) *

QUOTE(76-914 @ Feb 26 2014, 05:27 PM) *

I think it was Skeates who mentioned he was tired of playing Concentration with himself when describing the wiring. av-943.gif lol-2.gif laugh.gif Very well put.


Twas not I who coined that one, but I'll take the credit. happy11.gif

Looks like you are making some good progress. I'm particularly interested in seeing how your cooling solution works out as it is much easier to run those smaller diameter hoses. I also went with the 1.25" hose to keep things close to the stock sizes, but it sounds like there may be a significant amount of wiggle room there. Keep up this momentum and you'll be driving before you know it!


I think that was Scott Amenson on his MIA 2014 come back.


I still have $200 worth of copper that I pulled out of my car. Going to make a wind chime. aktion035.gif
I had mine all suspended by rubber. Thought I could get around it. I think it was Porsharu that sent me this PDF? May have saved my butt.
I didn't want all my work rotting from within.

That's not the article I was looking for. It's better. Thanks. I think with that info I can avoid loosing a radiator. Hell, it may all come out and go beneath the car like everyone else. idea.gif Radiator new was <$60 so it wouldn't hair lip me if it tanked. I love that the article tells how to test it with your VOM. Did you perform all those tests? Results?? It points out why grounds are so important. The OG Suby harness must have 20 random ground cables that attach to the body in different locations. Hmmmmmmmm.
Hey, hey> My fan switch arrived so I can plug that hole in the radiator. piratenanner.gif
ruby914
''Radiator new was <$60 so it wouldn't hair lip me if it tanked.''
Radiator? What about the motor?
BIGKAT_83
QUOTE(rnellums @ Feb 27 2014, 06:11 PM) *

For my joints, I bout some aluminum extenders off amazon, but the tee required for the EZ30 is what is killing me (one cold return @1.5" but TWO outlets @ 1.25"!)


Here you go these guys will make you anything you need . Jags that run

Bob biggrin.gif
76-914
Thx Bob, you gave me these guys name. This is just a temp thing for me to tinker with.
Mike, if I read that article right it gave a voltage value for CI and Alum engines where they began to disintegrate. If I stay well below that or near 0 then what happens? You need a source of energy. I think if this went south the radiator would go 1st, 2nd and 3rd before an engine would. .030" walls vs 1/4"+. Interesting thing about electrolysis effecting head gaskets, huh?
ruby914
QUOTE(76-914 @ Feb 27 2014, 08:21 PM) *

Thx Bob, you gave me these guys name. This is just a temp thing for me to tinker with.
Mike, if I read that article right it gave a voltage value for CI and Alum engines where they began to disintegrate. If I stay well below that or near 0 then what happens? You need a source of energy. I think if this went south the radiator would go 1st, 2nd and 3rd before an engine would. .030" walls vs 1/4"+. Interesting thing about electrolysis effecting head gaskets, huh?


I felt the same way, after spending the $$$ for copper. I was told a current could come from almost anything that spins like a differential. I didn't / don't know. I thought of head gaskets and seals. Thought about opening the coolant cap and seeing silver froth floating. Then I thought of that warm feeling that goes up my body just before I think, "Oh jees, what have I done? I knew better! Why did I risk it? huh.gif headbang.gif" barf.gif headbang.gif
I don't like that feeling, so I took it off.

popcorn[1].gif
76-914
Well, the copper ftg's can be re-used when/if I chunk them. I think Porsche knew that about tranny current and put the tranny ground strap bolt just for Suby conversions. lol-2.gif It started off as a way of fitting everything together. But now.............I want to actually check the current. In fact, I think this should be done regardless of your radiator cooling system. Have you done yours, yet. I wish you were closer. We could check it out. You need two people or an octopus to do the check. BTW, add movement and heat to the energy source list. This stuff is fascinating to me and others with a sub IQ. lol-2.gif I'm easily amused.
ruby914
I keep digging through my PC looking for a different document that I'm not finding. I remember a different one that was very good. I never did a final check for current.
We have this problem at work on CNC machines with the coolant systems. Everything is SS and aluminum separated by epoxy paint, fiberglass shims, aircraft tank seal... nothing seems to work for very long. Once the aluminum starts, it goes fast.
The aluminum boat guys have the same problem in salt water. They must have a sacrificial zink plate, Galvanic anode. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Galvanic_anode
It makes me wonder about that that OG Suby conversion with complete copper system? Eric Thresher was it? I would like to see a follow up on that car.
Chris H.
Man I obviously don't understand the science behind the problem here...just won't use copper then.

Yeah that car was for sale a while back...he sure did use some copper:

Eric T's Site
rnellums
QUOTE(BIGKAT_83 @ Feb 27 2014, 08:05 PM) *


Here you go these guys will make you anything you need . Jags that run

Bob biggrin.gif


This is EXACTLY what I was looking for. And they shipped fast. It's already on its way to my door!

-Ross
rnellums
Double
mgp4591
QUOTE(Chris H. @ Feb 28 2014, 01:15 PM) *

Man I obviously don't understand the science behind the problem here...just won't use copper then.

Yeah that car was for sale a while back...he sure did use some copper:

Eric T's Site

Dissimilar metals in a fluid medium results in a galvanic reaction that is the basis for lead/acid batteries. Somethings gotta give... popcorn[1].gif
Chris H.
Ah...yeah that sounds bad....
76-914
QUOTE(ruby914 @ Feb 28 2014, 09:56 AM) *

I keep digging through my PC looking for a different document that I'm not finding. I remember a different one that was very good. I never did a final check for current.
We have this problem at work on CNC machines with the coolant systems. Everything is SS and aluminum separated by epoxy paint, fiberglass shims, aircraft tank seal... nothing seems to work for very long. Once the aluminum starts, it goes fast.
The aluminum boat guys have the same problem in salt water. They must have a sacrificial zink plate, Galvanic anode. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Galvanic_anode
It makes me wonder about that that OG Suby conversion with complete copper system? Eric Thresher was it? I would like to see a follow up on that car.


All ships have them by the brass props. All water heaters have one. In water heaters they are made from aluminum or magnesium depending upon your water type. I don't think our cars cooling system operates in an environment as severe as that in a commercial water heater and it's related appurtenances. In every area except voltage and I think I'll find that is the big influence. I have seen commercials systems with copper mixed directly with steel that took over 3 yr's to rot out. At 180 degrees/90psi no less, circulating 24 hrs a day. Lots of to learn on my part. dry.gif
76-914
QUOTE(Chris H. @ Feb 28 2014, 12:15 PM) *

Man I obviously don't understand the science behind the problem here...just won't use copper then.

Yeah that car was for sale a while back...he sure did use some copper:

Eric T's Site

We'll find out. I just shot him an email. Thx for pulling that up, Chris. Now get out in that coooold garage and get back on it. happy11.gif
76-914
Well I guess we won't. Email bounced back to me. Onward thru the Fog. I picked up a used front sway bar. Sandblasted it, some new bushings, some paint and it gets another life. Looking down on the right side with the tank out you will see the raised flat area that needs to be trimmed. I found the appx center on the round flat aea where the mount is located then made a cut 45mm long (22.5mm either side of center) and 13mm away from the edge as shown. Clear as mud, huh?

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Then a few holes on each end.

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Then with a large punch I beat this piece down and flush with the wall.

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Then back inside the wheel well I measured over from the brake line brace to locate center. Don't confuse this 45mm mark with the one inside. They overlap but are staggered.

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Then down 13mm from the arch to locate the top of the "inside" brace. The plate that goes inside the wheel well is not the same shape. The bolt pattern is the same. And the infamous "too big" pic on Pelican was for the interior brace so thought I'd mention that. This is why I used that piece to mark the holes later.

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Again, referring to Pelican's article I located and drilled the front upper bolt first.

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Drilled a small hole from this side

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Finished this small hole up to 8mm

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Then back inside the well to install this piece and locate/drill the remaining holes.

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With the 3 bolts installed and in place I can see the center mark and mark and center punch where the 1" hole goes.

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With the center pilot hole drilled out the hole punch is put to use. A shot from both sides.

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Here are some shots showing how the radiator hose just clears all this in the left wheel well. Btw, all this comes back out for some quick paint and I ordered the wrong size bushings so I'm awaiting those.

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It occurred to me that this may be the last time this tank is out av-943.gif lol-2.gif laugh.gif so I thought I would put some gas in it to see what leaks before hand.

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EDIT: Forgot to ask this. When I weld the inner brace to the well do I spot or seam weld it? TIA, Kent
CptTripps
Awesome progress Kent.

I was going to weld up the two bottom lined on my stock tank too, since I'll be using the Subaru feeder/pump. I may cut a bigger hole in the bottom first so I can make sure the feeder is all the way at the bottom.

Something to remember: Only put a LITTLE fuel in at first. After you get your gauges set up, you'll need to know how many gallons you have left when the "feed me" light goes on. I always start with 1-gal, and then add it in 1/2-gal increments until the wife/kid inside the car says "It's off!" That gives me an idea of how long I have.
76-914
QUOTE(CptTripps @ Mar 3 2014, 07:36 AM) *

Awesome progress Kent.

I was going to weld up the two bottom lined on my stock tank too, since I'll be using the Subaru feeder/pump. I may cut a bigger hole in the bottom first so I can make sure the feeder is all the way at the bottom.

Something to remember: Only put a LITTLE fuel in at first. After you get your gauges set up, you'll need to know how many gallons you have left when the "feed me" light goes on. I always start with 1-gal, and then add it in 1/2-gal increments until the wife/kid inside the car says "It's off!" That gives me an idea of how long I have.

Thx Doug or should I say, "Et tu, Brutus". I have this feeling yours will be on the road (and nicer) than mine. sad.gif BTW, beginning w/ post #131 and you will see that you can see the position of the Suby fuel pick up thru the "new" fuel sender location. That's a good tip on low fuel warning.
rnellums
Kent, are you using the H6 pump or an impreza version? My EZ30 pump seems like the pickup is too short to be used in our tanks.

-Ross
76-914
Ross, It's from an Impreza. Save the H-6 pump. I think the motors are interchangeable. I had to rotate the pick up tube 180 degrees but that is covered in the thread. IIRC. If not, LMK. I'll get it for you.
76-914
Hope this helps, Ross. R-122 is the blk 10 pin in the lower left corner. It has a grey sheath as seen. Kent

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Here is a close up of the controller and R-122 plug

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76-914
I've been busy as a one armed Cranberry merchant for the past few weeks so I haven't accomplished much with the car. But I did get to tinker in the garage yesterday. Once again, I have shamelessly appropriated one of Bigkat83's ideas. I moved the battery to the drivers side. And for 2 reasons. One, to replace it with OEM parts was too pricey for my beer budget and two, the Suby battery cable would reach this side, barely. piratenanner.gif Although I believe the fiberglass battery tray that I put in the '76 is better in every way, I promised myself I would stick with metal on this car. I found these pic's of my mold for it taken 5 yr's ago yesterday. What a coincidence! The drinking straw is where the drain went (to the ground).

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This time I took some 18ga scrape and made the base and angle pieces. Not much to say other than I used the OEM relay board mount which in itself was not strong enough so bracing was welded in beneath it. Primer, paint and Plastidip to follow.

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And I put a front sway bar in the week before but you already saw that here http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...=232123&hl= I did weld the inner plates but didn't get an after pic. BTW, that's Hell welding in there. It would be a snap if on a rotisserie.

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76-914
Wow, I was so busy the last 10 days I goofed off for some R&R this weekend. I decided this was easy enough so I did this little 1 hr project and now feel better about the some protection for the clutch MC. The shield had been trimmed to allow the MC to fit.

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And with this 90 elbow and and line even more trimming was necessary

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I had an old Mapp Cylinder I saved just for this. So a quick pass thru the chop saw.

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Then a pass with the welder
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Next time I pull this I'll trim off about 3" at the rear, place some Wurth's at the seams and paint it. Look at the right side of the pic and you will see a slit that was cut. That was ball peened to allow for the hose and will be closed up when pulled again.

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CptTripps
That's pretty awesome. I'm going to steal that idea from you.

...now to go find a dead torch bottle.
ruby914
QUOTE(CptTripps @ Mar 23 2014, 06:49 PM) *

That's pretty awesome. I'm going to steal that idea from you.

...now to go find a dead torch bottle.


The dead one is the one that doesn't explode, when you cut it. smoke.gif
Elliot Cannon
So... what was easier/harder? Building this or an airplane? biggrin.gif Nice work.
76-914
QUOTE(CptTripps @ Mar 23 2014, 07:49 PM) *

That's pretty awesome. I'm going to steal that idea from you.

...now to go find a dead torch bottle.

I just happen to have an extra. blink.gif
76-914
QUOTE(ruby914 @ Mar 23 2014, 09:13 PM) *

QUOTE(CptTripps @ Mar 23 2014, 06:49 PM) *

That's pretty awesome. I'm going to steal that idea from you.

...now to go find a dead torch bottle.


The dead one is the one that doesn't explode, when you cut it. smoke.gif

Good point. There is a "Schroeder "like" " valve on the end that you can depress to be sure it is empty.
76-914
QUOTE(Elliot Cannon @ Mar 23 2014, 10:19 PM) *

So... what was easier/harder? Building this or an airplane? biggrin.gif Nice work.

I've been asking myself that same question these past few month's. dry.gif I'll have to think that one through a bit more. However, I can tell you this. There is no feeling like sitting at the end of the runway about to jam the throttle on a "unproven" plane that has never flown, powered by an "unproven" engine that has never taken one up and being flown by a pilot so nervous you couldn't have driven a 10 penny nail up my ass with a sledge hammer. poke.gif Done any spins in that V_Tail, yet? happy11.gif
76-914
Didn't get to work on mine today but I did put another boot in Cancer's ass. I finally got this 19mm style finished for Stephan (aka 914forme) who made a "very generous" donation to the "Fund" for the Cap'n Krusty's niece.
I removed about 3lb's of rust so I primed and sealed your brake base plate to seal it until you paint. The clutch plate was just primed as it is new steel. Hence, the different shades. I went with the 1/8" increase you measured so it should fit the 19mm master cylinder. I need to pick up the correct length bolt for the brace then I can ship it to you. PM me for shipping info. FWIW, I'm very close to powering up the electrical on the BlackBird. blink.gif I should probably warn the Fire Dep't. ahead of time. w00t.gif

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914forme
piratenanner.gif piratenanner.gif piratenanner.gif piratenanner.gif piratenanner.gif piratenanner.gif piratenanner.gif piratenanner.gif piratenanner.gif piratenanner.gif piratenanner.gif piratenanner.gif piratenanner.gif piratenanner.gif piratenanner.gif piratenanner.gif piratenanner.gif piratenanner.gif piratenanner.gif piratenanner.gif piratenanner.gif piratenanner.gif piratenanner.gif piratenanner.gif piratenanner.gif

Thank you Thank you Thank you. This was such a win win you have done a great thing here.
76-914
OK Stephan, your baby is finished w/ new 8mm bolts. I threw in a cover you can weld to your pan. I threw a smaller spring inside the package. Throw away the one that is presently on there.

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Now, back to work on my car. I didn't get to work on it the previous weekend or evenings these past few weeks but I did get some time in Saturday. Actually I did squeeze this 1 hr project in before Saturday. I wanted to keep this cover so I cut two slits, raised it up about 10mm then cut two small triangle pieces and welder.gif them in. Damn that's some thin metal. Is there a rust filter I'm missing. All my work looks rusty in pic's. WTF.gif

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Continuing my trek thru Hell I started on the wiring that "I think" I will need in this area. The old relay board is long gone and all that remains is the 14 wire harness which you can see in the Chinese Pony Clamp. Of those 14 I am using 4 wires.

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The Y will still go the starter solenoid, the B (switched +12v) will be my trigger for the relay controlling the new "switched ign" requirements, #12 R & #14 R are fused thru Tom's fuse block and will serve two requirements at the Suby ECU. Those 2 fuses will reduce to 15A.

I added this 4ga from the bat cable to the new "power dist area". BTW, most of this is temp and will be tidied up later.

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There are 2 terminal blocks in the pic. One is switched power the other is + BAT.

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Some scavenged relays. One for now and one for later.

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I know of two things that will change in these pic's later. The fused terminal block isn't mounted and Tom's 4 fuse block will be changed to a 6 fused unit. The 8ga & 10ga wires I ran to the front as well as the switched and BAT terminals will be fused thru the unarrived fuse terminal block. This will make since once I install that fused dist block.

euro911
QUOTE(76-914 @ Mar 23 2014, 05:56 PM) *
... I had an old Mapp Cylinder I saved just for this. So a quick pass thru the chop saw.

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...

I had to cut some holes and slots into a couple of propane cylinders for one of my idiotic projects. I was absolutely positive they had been previously evacuated laugh.gif

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Nice work, Kent

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76-914
Thanks Mark. I finally received that part so it might make sense now. The #4 wire feeds fused dist box. That box feeds 2 new lines thru the tunnel and the BAT terminal. There are two relays side by side. The relay on the left gets it's power from the BAT terminal, as well as a few other items. It in turn powers the +12v switched terminal. The 4 fuse box is hanging loose for now and 2 fuses changed to 15a. Next I need to wire the Y to the new starter circuit. The relay on the right will control the starter solenoid and take the load off that 41 yr old switch. I added another ground terminal next to the relays. That is 2 plus the factory ground on the left side! Can't have enough grounds. The rest I covered in the last post. After that I'm pretty much finished in the engine compartment and will need to connect 7 wires to the gages. I'll be on my knees asking questions at that point for sure.


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914forme
Oh, wow that is outstanding! Here I was out huffing my Mapp Cylinder tonight, just trying to get it down to use for this. laugh.gif4


Thanks again, great work, and it was my pleasure to help anyway I can.
76-914
Don't know why I didn't post this earlier. I received these a few weeks back. The L side fits fine but the right side is appx 1-2mm too long. I need to drop the engine once more so I will see if I can get it to fit once the engine is dropped a few inches. I think that my cradle might be out of square or the car for that matter. I should have measured both sides instead of assuming they are equal lengths. headbang.gif No matter, I'll sell them if not and cut another pair. My tranny lines up almost straight across so any trans that is offset by an inch or 2 should be OK to use these if I can't use them.

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rnellums
So this is the side that fits right?
BIGKAT_83
As the car sets in the picture(axle level) how much movement do you have on the axle? Pushing into the transaxle cv joint.

Bob
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