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76-914
QUOTE(rnellums @ Apr 24 2014, 11:23 AM) *

So this is the side that fits right?

bye1.gif Hey Ross, correctomundo. The 3/16" lip of the flange is all that prevents the other side from sliding in. I'll give this another look Saturday now that I got my head wrapped around this minor set back.

QUOTE(BIGKAT_83 @ Apr 24 2014, 12:05 PM) *

As the car sets in the picture(axle level) how much movement do you have on the axle? Pushing into the transaxle cv joint.

Bob

bye1.gif Hey Bob, how ya'll are? I took a quick measurement of 1.25", maybe a hair more. I didn't slide under the car for exact measurement but it is at least 1.25". Any trailing arm movement, up or down, should increase this distance because it is flat now. Is 1.25" enough, Bob?
Another thing I completely missed is the possibility that one or both trailing arms are out of spec. I read a few posts re: string alignment and thought I should check this out before I go too far.
76-914
I finally connected the bat tonite. Started by adding one fuse at a time until power was restored to cabin. When I hit "start" I just got a loud click which can be many things. New clutch binding, crappy starter, bad ground(s) or other bad connection? The solenoid which I added in the start circuit (to aid the switch) might not be sized correctly and God only knows what else. Before I go further I'll jump the starter solenoid so I know which path to follow piratenanner.gif piratenanner.gif piratenanner.gif
What the FUCH am I dancing for then. Because nothing popped; no majic smoke. I'm not saying there aren't problems ahead. I haven't energized the ECU nor connected the cursory gage wires so maybe I'm not out of the woods, yet. It's just a matter of plugging 2 fuses in zap it but I wanted to quit for the nite and enjoy the moment. beer3.gif
CptTripps
Stay on it man.

You're close!!!
Chris H.
Hey way to go Kent! No smoke is good! That happened to me and the problem was I didn't have it wired up to the starter relay quite right so it wasn't engaging the starter. You'll figure it out.

I got all my hoses, just waiting for reducers and a few other things and I should be ready to plumb mine up. Think I better install the clutch first though. Hey do you have the part # for "L" shaped fitting you used on the end of the clutch master cylinder?
rnellums
Good going! Now once yours starts properly I'll need you to make a detailed schematic of your harness biggrin.gif . Kidding about that, but seriously, great progress!
76-914
QUOTE(CptTripps @ Apr 29 2014, 06:24 AM) *

Stay on it man.

You're close!!!

I see your in "Electrical Heaven" yourself. happy11.gif Misery loves company.

QUOTE(Chris H. @ Apr 29 2014, 06:29 AM) *

Hey way to go Kent! No smoke is good! That happened to me and the problem was I didn't have it wired up to the starter relay quite right so it wasn't engaging the starter. You'll figure it out.

I got all my hoses, just waiting for reducers and a few other things and I should be ready to plumb mine up. Think I better install the clutch first though. Hey do you have the part # for "L" shaped fitting you used on the end of the clutch master cylinder?

Chris, I looked thru my Ebay history and it wasn't there so I probably got it at JEG's. If you don't see it there pm me and I'll find it in my receipt's. I do have one of the fittings that goes from the slave directly to the AN3 flare nut on the SS line if either one of you want to bypass that banjo fitting. That first electrical test is like a first flight. Make or break it! w00t.gif
76-914
I jumped the starter solenoid tonite and nothing. sad.gif I was going to drop the starter for bench testing and I thought maybe I should confirm a good ground. I ran a jumper cable from the -BAT to the bolt head on the starter and whadaya know. Spins the engine like crazy. slap.gif I ran another ground and will add a few more to the engine block. smash.gif Then turned the ign key over and I listened to that 6 wanting some gas. Got an instant shit eating grin on my face. Speaking of gas my next item will be to reform Robert's (Rotary914) SS fuel lines to suite my needs. I was lucky enough to see him at G&R and asked him about bending his lines while in place. They're almost new so I'll make em work for me. After the gas is hooked up I might have see if it will start. unsure.gif The further I get without a major screw up the more I worry I'm due a doozy. blink.gif
76-914
I want to keep center console with it's gage cluster so I thought I'd make a run at installing a Suby gage in the center gage cluster. My donor is a clock.

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I read where Toolguy uses a hose clamp around the bezel before prying it off to keep it from stretching and getting beaten to stromberg.gif . My hose clamp was kind of beefy and I didn't trust it would conform so I took this short piece of 2.5" copper and cut a slit in it. The diameter was 1mm too small to slip over the bezel.

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Then I placed the gage so the bezel was flush with the edge of the copper sleeve and tightened a hose clamp around the copper to lightly compress the bezel.

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Here it is from the south end.

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Then work a small flat blade screw driver around about 80% of the circle and remove the bezel and glass.

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Next remove the 3 screws from the back, clip the solder joint off and the clock will fall out.

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Clamp the gage to the can and mark for first cut with a scroll

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A quick test fit

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These are the pins that are attached to the circuit board which this gage was originally attached to. I pulled them out of the circuit board with pliers then put them in the vise and hit them with heat and a blast of compressed air to blow out the solder joint. It leaves a neat little pattern where the solder blows.

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The 3 posts soldered with leads in and ready to place in the can

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I haven't closed the bezel as I need to locate a glass cover w/o the hole in the center. And the silicone holding the gage in place isn't dry but other than that I think this one is done.

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914forme
Nice Job on the gauges Kent, also the pedal cluster made it, and it looks great, thanks again.
Jonathan Livesay
IPB Image
My Subaru 914 gauges from NHW Speedo.
76-914
QUOTE(914forme @ May 3 2014, 06:31 PM) *

Nice Job on the gauges Kent, also the pedal cluster made it, and it looks great, thanks again.

Thx Stephen, pm me for my phone number when you want you install it. I'll save you a hour or so.
76-914
These might be the last 3 wires that need to be connected. One is an addition; the Check Engine Light, one is Temp which is waiting for the center console for final connection and the other is for the Tach which I haven't converted yet. There are a few wire nuts and crimp connectors that will be corrected but the end is in sight.

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Finally got up the courage to cut the front bumper and fairing.. We'll see how this works before I clean it up. It obviously needs to be blacked out before it's screened.

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euro911
Are those dollies the little half-size HF dollies?
Chris H.
Now you've done it! Time to gas it up.
76-914
QUOTE(euro911 @ May 6 2014, 09:53 PM) *

Are those dollies the little half-size HF dollies?

Yeppers. I had 2 small ones for dropping the drivetrain. Then I bought the large one. Since the large one has become my welding cart and these 2 small ones have been re-purposed, temporarily. BTW, they work great, are cheaper than their car dollies and can still be used to drop the drivetrain on the 4 banger.

QUOTE(Chris H. @ May 7 2014, 05:21 AM) *

Now you've done it! Time to gas it up.

I'm sneaking up on it. lol-2.gif I think back a year ago when I thought it might run by Oct. slap.gif I was smart enough to keep that one to myself. biggrin.gif I know now, that I should never have stopped working on the electrical and should have stayed with it start to finish. The start/stop method requires that I re-familiarize myself each time I re-start and at my age that is not smart. Shit I can't even remember what I had for breakfast! blink.gif
Chris H.
Yeah don't feel bad I was planning to drive mine to Garold's annual event in August last year. Riiiiight! I'll be lucky to make this one but it's looking pretty good.
ruby914
[quote name='Chris H.' post='2034364' date='May 7 2014, 05:21 AM']
Now you've done it! Time to gas it up.
[/quote]
I'm sneaking up on it. lol-2.gif I think back a year ago when I thought it might run by Oct. slap.gif I was smart enough to keep that one to myself. biggrin.gif I know now, that I should never have stopped working on the electrical and should have stayed with it start to finish. The start/stop method requires that I re-familiarize myself each time I re-start and at my age that is not smart. Shit I can't even remember what I had for breakfast! blink.gif
[/quote]

I was going to poke.gif you and Doug to drive to the G&R happy11.gif
Looking good.
76-914
Doug and I would have been happy to drive our new conversions there had we been able. mad.gif If'n the good Lord's willing and the creeks don't rise I'm pretty sure there will be 3 more conversions hitting the road this summer. piratenanner.gif
76-914
The Suby Temp gage that I just transplanted received an upgrade. I had recessed the gage a bit too far, it felt rubbery and was just a hair out of square. As you can seen an 1 1/2" ABS (or PVC) coupling fits like it was made for it. It needs to be trimmed to 28.5mm in length and siliconed on both ends. The ridge or stop inside the coupling will interfer with the gage if it is placed towards the top. IOW, the stop is dead center inside the coupling until I cut some off one end. Now, the gage sits flush, it's base is sturdy and it sets the depth so the needle clears the lens.

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BIGKAT_83
QUOTE(76-914 @ May 7 2014, 03:30 PM) *

Doug and I would have been happy to drive our new conversions there had we been able. mad.gif If'n the good Lord's willing and the creeks don't rise I'm pretty sure there will be 3 more conversions hitting the road this summer. piratenanner.gif

Make that 5! Two more coming out of my garage. sawzall-smiley.gif welder.gif

Bob
CptTripps
I'm getting close!

Really only about a month later than I wanted. I can be ok with that.

Your build is looking great man. Stay with it!
76-914
QUOTE(BIGKAT_83 @ May 7 2014, 06:30 PM) *

QUOTE(76-914 @ May 7 2014, 03:30 PM) *

Doug and I would have been happy to drive our new conversions there had we been able. mad.gif If'n the good Lord's willing and the creeks don't rise I'm pretty sure there will be 3 more conversions hitting the road this summer. piratenanner.gif

Make that 5! Two more coming out of my garage. sawzall-smiley.gif welder.gif


Bob, How about sharing some pic's and info on those? I'd love to tap into your knowledge bank some more. biggrin.gif


QUOTE(CptTripps @ May 7 2014, 08:08 PM) *

I'm getting close!

Really only about a month later than I wanted. I can be ok with that.

Your build is looking great man. Stay with it!

Don't be discouraged if it takes longer, Doug. That 90%/90% rule is a harsh reality when building. If this trend continues RRC, WCR will be joined by SCC. (Suby Conversion Classic) Nah, we might have to explain why more 40 yo air cooled cars made the trip w/o a breakdown than our Suby's av-943.gif lol-2.gif laugh.gif
76-914
While waiting on some tach cans I thought it might be a good idea to run some fuel lines. My original plan was to run the fuel to the left side along the firewall. However, that side ended up being quite busy so I left the SS lines in place. I decided to run the gas line across the engine (just like the 914) but I didn't want to worry about the rubber lines shooting fuel about the compartment. So I bought these 5/16" anodized lines in 51" & 60" lengths. $15 for both.

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Then a few simple tools and 45 min's later


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Test fit the first piece. You can't see it but they will run one spaced above the other along a 1" path above the TB opening. No room to wiggle.

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They're flipped 180 from how they'll attach. That will happen after I drop the engine again. Then I can do some spring cleaning and tidying up.

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Rotary'14
That looks really nice! Let's hear her fire up!

-Rob
76-914
Thx Rob, but it's no where near your level of expertise.

I found that I needed to change the gage layout a bit if I'm to use the Suby tack and Suby speedo. But I can't use the existing panel and need to make another one. The new panel will have 2 large cans and 1 small can vs. the old layout of 2 small and one large. I think there is just enough room but I won't know until I get the cans next week. But there's stuff I can do now. I need a model so time to pull the gages and remove the panel. Luckily I never removed the markers I put on last year so that was time saved.

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A piece of some aluminum plate cut to appx size with a pilot hole for alignment to the OG panel.

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My tool box top has a nice big radius lip so I covered the edge with some blue painters tape and pulled the plate across it several times to get a gradual curve like the OG.

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A quick layout check

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Checking the bottom for flatness after the lower flange(s) were bent. I couldn't have one continuous lip because of the curvature of the face.

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Another quick test fit. Still on track.

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Now to countersink the holes

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I need to buy another flycutter so I can cut those holes. The centers are punched so it will just be a matter of cutting the holes. But before I can do that I need to laminate the back with 5/8" poly carbonate. Once that is drilled out it should create the shoulders for the gages just as the stamped OG panel has. More when the cans arrive.
EDIT: These holes are marked incorrectly. They are each 5mm too large. So 115mm & 100mm.
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The 2 salvage tach's came today. Thx Garold, once again. Remove 4 screws on the backside and everything falls out after the bezel is removed.

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These little post do double duty. They support the gage and also function as light tubes for the blinkers and HiBeam light.

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Here is the Suby gage that was cut from the panel cluster. It still needs to be trimmed.

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Use the line that is the radius line of the gage face. It's where dull black goes to grey or clear.

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Then drill a hole (be damned sure to use a bit for plastic) as shown for the stock HiBeam indicator lite.

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This is strictly a Shits n Grin mock up to see is it works. A piece of alum with a couple of holes and some electrical tape to blend in.

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Temp taped to the back. Final vers will be glued in place w/ arrows.

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The HiBeam hole (in yellow) from the back of gage.

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Put a little power to it to see what it would look like. It also need a blue lens for the HiBeam tube. The turn signals are now on the bottom and HiBeam on top. Otherwise it's pretty damned stock looking.

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Next up is the Suby Speedo Transfer.
ruby914
WOW.
Kent, your making this look far too easy.
Why wasn't this done before. confused24.gif
Maybe, I saw all that circuit board and looked the other way. Didn't think of digging that deep.
I still have my AT Suby cluster and converted and aborted 914 gauges.
I should make mine like you are doing and pass them on. Good work beerchug.gif
popcorn[1].gif popcorn[1].gif
914forme
Im not sure why people fear gauges so, but as normal thx for showing us another way of doing this.

BTW, you can pickup a sample of plastic light lens films, the sheets are great to change or update colors for things like High Beams and warning lights. Literally any color you want under the rainbow is yours. All in light translucent glory.

Now lets get this thing fired up driving.gif
Chris H.
Yeah this is awesome. I liked the SVX gauge faces and thought about cutting them down but decided not to. The panel is way too big but now you got me thinking...
76-914
Well Mike, if it weren't easy and cheap I wouldn't do it. biggrin.gif Thx Stephen and Chris. beerchug.gif . Well this post on the Speedo install will be short because almost all of the work is the same covered in the Tach post! One difference is the speedo is also installed in a large "tach can". As you can see it is the same size as the Suby tach and needs to be trimmed to fit and the window won't have turn signals.

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Then I peeled the laminate face off of the old Suby panel face and robbed some needed labels.

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Thought I'd throw in this side by side of OG Tach and Suby Tach.

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And the finished products

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Chris H.
Dude.... pray.gif Seriously way to dig into that pod and make it your beyotch.
Rotary'14
agree.gif

You are doing some really great work any CSOB will appreciate your ingenuity. I really like how your car is coming along.
76-914
Thx guys but its really just that simple. You'll see if you do it.
mgp4591
Great work and you make it look too easy! Now you've got me thinking about my Subie guages.... idea.gif
76-914
QUOTE(mgp4591 @ May 15 2014, 01:25 AM) *

Great work and you make it look too easy! Now you've got me thinking about my Subie guages.... idea.gif

It truly is too easy. Do it! I did neglect to mention that you need to place a few small dabs of silicone to hold the gage face so it won't slide forwards. There are no screws holding it to the back of the can like OEM gages. And the last caveat I foresee is lighting. The OEM gages have openings along the side of the gage to allow light to enter from the rear. I will have to #1- open up some places on the Suby gages to allow for this; #2- install post lamps; #3- install AC style "red" exterior mt. panel lamps; #4- install led's; #5- ship them to Timothy for some of his magic lighting skills. Anyone of these methods should work but I just wanted to throw this out there as it is not the 100% changeover. Lighting (other than those you see working in the pic's) will need to be addressed. beerchug.gif
Rotary'14
You might want to try for lighting if you don't go LED,,,since your gauges are open.

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...&hl=el+wire

-Rob

76-914
QUOTE(Rotary'14 @ May 15 2014, 06:25 PM) *

You might want to try for lighting if you don't go LED,,,since your gauges are open.

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...&hl=el+wire

-Rob

Perfect! Thx a million Rob. I'll try to locate that material this evening and order it up. If any of you guy's following this live near Doug in OH, give him a ring. He could use some help and friend's from the brotherhood.
Chris H.
The needles on the Subie gauges also MIGHT light up. Not sure how that works...

I wish I lived closer to Doug...can't swing anything now but we'll see how the summer goes. For sure someone needs to roll out there and help him finish that car. Or BS and tell big fish stories and drink bottled beverages while SITTING in the unfinished car. Man stuff.
914forme
I think Doug should toss together a meet up and a few of use might be able to run up, or over depending on our locations. Not many can run down, Lake Erie kinda makes that a little hard. He needs a few good hands on that car to get it done.

I am booked solid though most of the summer.
76-914
QUOTE(Chris H. @ May 16 2014, 08:45 AM) *

The needles on the Subie gauges also MIGHT light up. Not sure how that works...

I wish I lived closer to Doug...can't swing anything now but we'll see how the summer goes. For sure someone needs to roll out there and help him finish that car. Or BS and tell big fish stories and drink bottled beverages while SITTING in the unfinished car. Man stuff.

Well Chris, I feel kinda stupid now. It never occurred to me to place the OG lighting back in to verify that it would/would not work. headbang.gif Damnit! I'll get back with you.
76-914
QUOTE(914forme @ May 16 2014, 11:32 AM) *

I think Doug should toss together a meet up and a few of use might be able to run up, or over depending on our locations. Not many can run down, Lake Erie kinda makes that a little hard. He needs a few good hands on that car to get it done.

I am booked solid though most of the summer.

That would be great but the truth is, Doug is a sharp guy and he can get that support right here. And the reality is it will take many month's should he go it alone. Either way he'll finish it but it would be faster if he got some help.
CptTripps
Thanks Stephen and Kent.

MY reality right now is that I'm moving out of the house with the garage, and may not have access to come here all that often. I'm looking for a "garage space" on Craigslist to move everything to that's closer to where I'll be living for the next few months.

This was a curve ball for sure.
76-914
poke.gif Doug, you have no excuse for not moving to SoCal now.
And Chris, your a genius! I guess I should slow down a little more. As you can see there are a few dark spots but miles better than stock using stock bulbs. piratenanner.gif I suspect the dark spots are areas where the post interfere and I may just leave it as is. Anyway, thanks for stopping in and pulling my head out of my ass, Chris! chair.gif

An Andyesque style but you get the idea.

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rnellums
Well that pretty much does it. I'm keeping subie gauges for sure now.
Mike Bellis
I really dig this gauge mod. first.gif
Chris H.
Whaaaa? Hey you're DOING stuff...I'm just watching. Very easy to do from the arm chair. Hope I didn't come off wrong 'cause I really have no idea how those things are wired. ALMOST took my pod apart last year but it looked so weird inside compared to the old school gauges I decided not to. If the needles light up that will look awesome. The CEL light is a bonus too. If you can't get good light uniformity when you get them all done go for LED in the background and light up the needles with regular lights. I have an SVX and an Impreza gauge pod if you break anything but it looks like you're good. To this point I was planning to go all VDO but I'm calling a major time out now.

BTW I will be ready to ship that Honda OR Yamaha filler neck this weekend. Gonna start the plumbing and it really looks like the Yamaha will win but who knows.... You need any 7/8 hose for the connection down to the tee or do you still have plenty?
76-914
QUOTE(rnellums @ May 17 2014, 04:10 AM) *

Well that pretty much does it. I'm keeping subie gauges for sure now.

Do it. It's free. How much can go wrong at that price? biggrin.gif

QUOTE(Mike Bellis @ May 17 2014, 08:58 AM) *

I really dig this gauge mod. first.gif

Thanks Mike, Hope you'll like all my dumb elec questions when I'm trying to start this thing. lol-2.gif

QUOTE(Chris H. @ May 17 2014, 09:19 AM) *

Whaaaa? Hey you're DOING stuff...I'm just watching. Very easy to do from the arm chair. Hope I didn't come off wrong 'cause I really have no idea how those things are wired. ALMOST took my pod apart last year but it looked so weird inside compared to the old school gauges I decided not to. If the needles light up that will look awesome. The CEL light is a bonus too. If you can't get good light uniformity when you get them all done go for LED in the background and light up the needles with regular lights. I have an SVX and an Impreza gauge pod if you break anything but it looks like you're good. To this point I was planning to go all VDO but I'm calling a major time out now.

BTW I will be ready to ship that Honda OR Yamaha filler neck this weekend. Gonna start the plumbing and it really looks like the Yamaha will win but who knows.... You need any 7/8 hose for the connection down to the tee or do you still have plenty?

I was amazed I skipped the obvious and went for the difficult. Thx for pointing it out. I'm good on hose. I did as you did. Bought open boxes on Ebay. Much cheaper. Do You have a good source on fuel hose?

OK, I've beat this gage build to death to death but I wanted to show the gages installed in their new panel. Here is what is looked liked before.

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I had wanted to spruce up this panel before but decided not to. I'm glad I had a reason to do this matching panel. smile.gif The only thing I haven't revealed is the way the gages are supported vs. the old rubber gasket in a sleeve stamped during production. My 1st attempt was a miserable failure. I may have it this go around but will hold off till I know that it works. It's so simple I hope it does work.

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mgp4591
Beat it to death?? Whatever dude! It's info and pics like this that let us drool over the work and gives us all kinds of ideas! And gets us going on to the next project, brings smiles to faces, gives hope to the hopeless... oh well, it's just idol worshipping at this point... smilie_pokal.gif
Chris H.
Wow. Those look stock like they belong there. Game changer. Looks like I might need some busted tachs!

Hey Kent I've been thinking about your cooling system. This is just a suggestion, but if you teed that 7/8 return line directly into the larger lines at the engine so they're at the same height, would this be your high point?

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You COULD put the filler neck there if you wanted to whenever you decide to take the copper stuff out. I'm sure you could find a spot for a reservoir or move your washer bottle. Just an idea. Not saying it's a good one. I can't tell if that's actually the highest point or not.
76-914
You read my mind. That is indeed a high spot and the one on the left side is almost as high. I had planned on placing that filler neck a few inches behind that. With a vent tee installed on the left side 3/4" hose. And with the filler neck in the engine compartment, I'll have 3 spots from which to vent/fill. piratenanner.gif
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