I claim first ride along! Sounds GREAT Kent!

congrats! what a great feeling when you hear it bark to life.

Cool! Sounds great! Any codes? Time to clear out the driveway and go for a ride. Click to view attachment

Bad-ass man! That's fantastic news and a great video. Sounds awesome.

I should only be a few days behind you. (At least I hope I am!)

Thx guys, I'm still pinching myself to see if this is real. Many things known and unknown have yet to be addressed. Codes? Don't know yet. I haven't mounted that light yet. I still have to check out the cooling which could be a Royal PITA. But everything else seems small now. Just a matter of wringing it out. I will make this statement, however. When it fired up, both smoothly & immediately, I was reminded as to why I made the change. Improved engine management systems. Hopefully she gets to taste some asphalt next week.
Chit: I just noticed your "Welcome" banner Mike; totally cool!

Are you re-flashing the stock ECU with updated software? There are a lot of options for that.

I think I will but I know nothing about that subject other than the "few" articles I have found. I'll take any info you have on that subject, Doug. BTW, Chris and I are talking a RRC rendezvous this September for the "3 Subyteer's". You up for that?

Just a follow-up, Speedhut charged me $10 for the 'custom artwork' face

OUTRAGEOUS!!!!! I can get three cups of coffee downtown for that!

I'm in if I can make it work. Seriously...I'll have the car sent out, and then fly there and drive it back. That'd be a blast.

Uh Doug, I've got a feeling you will not like some one else driving your car. More especially a Turbo powered Fucking Rocket that can and will get ahead of you. You like the plane theme so think of your car as the "Merlin" powered P-51. Killed many a green pilot on take off. Too much throttle input and they flipped over on take off. Those little wings couldn't handle the torque of that beast until it reached speed. If that boost kicks in at the wrong moment in a turn, you'll be busy. Kinda like landing at Big Bear when 3 of the 4 wind socks are going different directions. Besides, I think you'll enjoy driving it and become quite possessive of it. You'd better with your investment.

Well, at least this way, I won't have to worry about screwing up something and voiding the warranty by doing it myself

Yeah $10 is cheap man. I was just kidding about the price. Prying a brand new gauge apart would suck. Did they agree to take the Speedhut part off too?

Kent I think Doug is saying he would have the car shipped out on a car hauler. Certainly could get man-handled along the way if you chose the wrong company. I'd pay extra for the cushy, enclosed carrier with that car.

Last nite I was finishing up the wiring and tidying up in the cabin so I decided to give it the once over. Found some extraneous wiring and removed it along with some 12 ga speaker wire . But the jewel was this black ball of electrical tape. When I unraveled it I found my "missing" ground lug from the left front fender. It had been commissioned to jumper duty. There were 4 red + wires w/ female spades attached by some PO.

Chris, I received the "American Made" Tach Adp yesterday and promptly installed it this PM. Works great and I get to keep my OEM tach. As I should; I have a few laying around, now. It does make the movement very smooth as you mentioned. Just had to remove the jumper to power the old tach. Wouldn't spool up w/o it but they cover that in the instructions. Once the new Speedo arrives the panel gets closed up.

Click to view attachment

Click to view attachment

Click to view attachment

I seem to remember someone had cautioned me that these are prone to leaking. The washer is hard as a rock and is supposed to seal against the plastic. I tightened to what I felt was tight enough but it leaked. I'm glad that I used this bedliner material now!

Click to view attachment

So I pulled out the adhesives box and "Dirko'd" it's little ass in place. We'll see if it holds tonight.

Click to view attachment

Click to view attachment

Click to view attachment

Click to view attachment

Mine landed in OH in the exact same position it left CA. Same cars on there too.

I think it was about $900 from Sacramento to Cleveland.

Wow! I should nominate myself for the Slacker's Thread. I found my thread on the bottom of page 3. I've been tying up loose ends here and there before I yank the drivetrain again. Now, I think I know of "everything" that needs attention once the engine is out. So that's pretty much my excuse for these past weeks.

Remember this Rat's Nest?

Click to view attachment

I ran out of electrical tape but I completed a big portion of the clean up. Next I will need to strap it all up.

Click to view attachment

I also was able to get both axles installed.

Click to view attachment

Click to view attachment

I received my new toy Thursday and promptly installed it. Found out the damned thing wouldn't work w/o electricity or the GPS antennae connected.

Click to view attachment

Now it's time to pull the engine and clean up that Rat's Nest in the engine compartment.

Well, duh. The car needs to be moving too



Speedhut removed the extra 'tick marks' on mine, but left their 'ad' at the bottom

Hey Mark No matter what you order it will appear counterfeit at a glance.
Yesterday I bumped the starter while it was in gear. I almost shit myself but that is another story. Placed it in neutral, started it and it ran rough as Hell so I shut it off while I thought about it. I had just wrapped looming around most of the comp wiring and was afraid I had something up. Today I started it and revved it a bit and it smoothed mostly but still is a bit off and running very rich. I'll see what code is flagged or better yet which codes are not flagged. Any ideas??
After that experience I decided I had better use the neutral switch on the tranny. It and the reverse switch are dead. That's alright. It's time to pull the drivetrain so I'll get a closer look when it's out. It might be a result of removing the center differential. Forgot to add that I ran a dedicated 16ga wire from the bat to that lying assed Volt meter.

Make sure the MAF is installed correctly, thats what mine did when i installed it
backwards. It would start but run like shit!

Thx, I'll check that. I need to learn about those and there is no time like the present. I haven't fabbed an air box yet and the TB is open to the trunk. There is 2 pole harness that attached to the old air box. Is this "most likely" a N/O ground switch that can be jumped. I don't have the OEM sender anymore. TIA.

Also are you running it with no exhaust still? Might (or might not) be something to do with that. I don't recall if those O2 sensors affect the way it runs or if it just pops the CEL.

Yes, I am. And they might effect it, but I don't know. I thought on it some more last nite and now I wonder if one of those engine harness plugs may have made contact with the body when it jumped. I know the engines want to jump up under load and there isn't a lot of clearance between those and the body. And I didn't fetch those codes yet, either.

Well I dropped the drivetrain in preparation for cleaning up the Hell Hole wiring and some hose replacement. I'm writing it up step by step so I will have a reference one day when I've forgotten damn near everything I've done. This adds to the time it takes but what is really slowing me down is my neighbors kid who's decided to take an interest in my cars transformation. Not that I believe it's unusual for a 14yo kid to show interest in old cars. That is unless that kid's name is Brigitte.
I place a lot of value on positive mentoring but with a girl? I'm walking on egg shells here. Some of it must be showing too because yesterday after a brief injury and a futile search for the proper response she told me it was alright if I cussed and that she hears it at home. If her interests hold true and this continues I shall have to have a little talk with her about "proper" attire when working on automobiles. I'm sure those of you in my age group can attest to the difficulties of staying "on track" and not getting distracted. More especially if your assistant seems to bend over at every opportunity revealing her tight fitting short shorts or the fruits of the low cut blouses she choose to wear. It's a good thing for both of us that this wasn't happening 20 yr's ago. In all seriousness, she comes from a large family of over achievers and I think she was "left behind" so to speak. So we will see how long her interest stay the course. I suspect at her age she shall soon find a young suitor and lose interest in old cars. Until then, we continue. Yesterday was an intro to VOM's and continuity testing.

I had a few hours yesterday so I began to tidy up this electrical Rat's Nest that had been staring at me for the past few weeks.

Click to view attachment

Click to view attachment

Click to view attachment

Click to view attachment

My helper went AWOL which sped the process up greatly. I ran out of electrical tape so pardon the exposed wires, sloppiness and floppiness. Another 2o min's and it should be wrapped up. NPI

Click to view attachment

Click to view attachment

Click to view attachment

Strapped up my cables

Click to view attachment

and strapped the steel fuel lines with Adell clamps. The $11 I spent on these lines saved me $65 on 30R9 hose which needs to be replaced in time also.

Click to view attachment

Nice clean-up on the wiring

More info on this please!

I'm looking for how in the world I'm going to work the burp tank and fill lines.

OK...........I'll go take a few shots. I wasn't going to post it until I finalized the "plumbing" because the use of materials shall change drastically. BRB

I think you can see why I wasn't going to post this.

Click to view attachment

This is another shot of the drivers side. Note the antennae hole and that the pipe is beginning to go back downhill as it passes thru the fenderwell. This is the high spot on the L side. Also, this tee and angle stop will be replaced with a .75" Alum coupling tapped w/ a 1/4" ball valve w/ a screw driver slot rather than a handle. I put the drivers side vent here because I did not want ANY water leaking onto the fuse block below and inside.

Click to view attachment

The R side is different and should be able to vent out thru the fill cap but I may have to loosen the pipe clamp that holds the hose down in order to raise the pipe 2" or 3" when venting. On my EZ30, the outlet hoses have enough flex that I can lift them if necessary.(That is the Tee you referenced )There's a pic of that here a few pages back. I don't know how yours exits the engine so I can't help there.

Click to view attachment

The high spot on the R side is where the hose goes over bulkhead. That spot is about 2" higher than the fill cap.

Click to view attachment

One of the things on my punch list. My brakes lines are bled & fitted up but I'm missing something. I tried to explain this to Erc @ the G&R Event w/o results but then again a pic is worth a 1000 words. Hopefully this will be clear. During the conversion I replaced all the brake items. The PO had used some small SS flex lines which I replaced. They were of a different size and IIRC they had a small union which received the curved washer/clamp. With this set up the upper piece will flop in the hole because it isn't secured. What did I do wrong here? What do I need to order and where do I get them? It should secure like the other end in the last pic, right?

Click to view attachment

Click to view attachment

Click to view attachment

The last pic is how it ought to be! Coming along!

I think you have that hose in slightly wrong on the top connection my brother. Need to move it so you can clip that piece into the little ring like the lower one.

Click to view attachment

The hex bolt needs to be on the other side of the bracket like the lower one is. Make sense?

Well it will pull down enough that the nut is below the bracket but if I slip that clip over it it will just pull down further. In other words I could pull it down another 6" but it would bend the tube above it. Is it possible the hole in that bracket was drilled out by the PO and is too large. What is supposed to keep it from pulling thru? Heeeeeelp.

That doesn't look right.

I'd put a hose clamp in the bottom part and then use one of those C clips to keep it locked in place. Or, just the hose clamp.

I have SS lines without the flanges in front on mine and that's how I ended up having to do it too.

So that hex bolt will go through the hole? I think the hole is too big or that hose is slightly different than stock. Did the old one fit OK? You could try a very thin washer but that clip pretty much fits the indented space exactly... How about a little JB Weld to close the hole up a bit? It's be plenty strong for that and might be easier than welding it up.

I think I'll ping Erc. It's all his stuff so I'm sure it is standard and correct.

Could you have the front and rear lines messed up?

Shit if I know but I don't think so. Everything up front fits fine. Right now I'm prepping for the embarrassment that will come once Erc or someone shines the "dumb ass light" on me. On a brighter note, I received my fuel hose from Chris today. I'm in SoCal & Chris is on the opposite corner of the good old USA. I ordered Monday nite and received the order this morning. That's fast!

You need the different style clamp for that hose. It is the U-shaped spring clamp that fits over the end of the hard-line not in the groove on the softline. I'm currently in Monterey at parade so I can't readily find a picture for you but there are pictures of that style of clamp here on the site. When I see you shaped it's confusing because you naturally think of the clip that you use it in the picture above. This one is a spring style clamp again, it mounts on the hard-line side and has two legs that press against that body tab.

Thx Erc, I'll get with you next week to clarify. I'll buy those pieces from you if you have them.

Found this at the local flaps Sat. One side is aboot (I'm practicing my Canadian) 1" longer than the other but it fits well. $9 but what the Hell.

Click to view attachment

Click to view attachment

Click to view attachment

Tell your new 'apprentice' that in the interest of safety she needs to wear garage 'appropriate' clothing. That would be a pair of coveralls.....

Nice find on the hose!, it was on my todo list to come up with something more elegant than what I had so nice job! Looks to be a heater bypass hose from a 95 Civic.

Yea, we already had "that little talk". Awkward but you can't be too careful today. In my book, her Dad should have been here during those times and he wasn't. I did use the "safety approach". She dropped out for several days but showed up again yesterday.
As far as the hose goes, thank the kid waiting on me. Most wouldn't give you the time of day but he went in the back and emerged with this after 10 min's. FWIW, I read that the flow cannot be impeded and should always be full flow on this heater loop.

Damn, busier than a one armed cranberry merchant these past few weeks so little to show other than I re-visited the firewall area. I'm beginning think I'm obsessed with this area. The engine compartment had a lot of primer from earlier repairs but I didn't want to shoot paint at this stage so I used that spray dip. Many positives. It easily removes if I want to shoot paint later; no over spray and you can spray right to the edge; insulating qualities between metal and my electrical jungle; some sound deadening. I received the SS metric hardware so I when I re-installed the wiring on the firewall I used all SS. As you can see in one pic the screw heads are inside and set in a puddle of JB Weld. This gives me the clearance on the inside and "studs" in the engine compartment.

Click to view attachment

Click to view attachment

Click to view attachment

Bare with me. I've reached that point of going back to "complete" items that an organized individual would have already completed. Some of these shots you've seen before. To quote Oat Willie, "Onward thru the Fog!". A free bowl of Chile if you know who he was.
Put some SS hardware to good use here

Click to view attachment

Click to view attachment

Applied lables indicating all my ground points for the next poor schmuck.

Click to view attachment

Needed to modify my "K n N" filter to accept the air temp sensor.

Click to view attachment

Click to view attachment

Click to view attachment

When you've reached the torque value but need another little bit to align the cotter pin, this is it! Smooth as butter and requires no strength. It's also fast as Hell to remove them this way. If your close and need break yours loose, come on by. I've got pipe wrenches up to 60".

Click to view attachment

Click to view attachment

Meet the "new" Hell Hole. If your doing one of these hydraulic conversions you know what I'm talking about. It's a bitch fitting that clevis, spacer and cotter pin. And if you've done it more than once you feel my pain. I'm good with the outcome, though. The large fender washer between the floorboard and return spring, compresses the rubber washer against the floorboard for an air tight seal. Didn't plan that, just fell in my lap. The bolt access hole above it still needs a snap in cover.

Click to view attachment

Click to view attachment

I hope that I didn't jump the gun and throw this Dynamat in too early. I'm going to try it w/o any on the firewall, first. If it's noisy I'll add some but I don't have an air cooled engine w/ carbs so I should be alright.

Click to view attachment

Click to view attachment

Click to view attachment

Click to view attachment

Short of paint and removing the white plastic cups for a "return air", the rear trunk is a "wrap". The one harness laying in the right rear corner is for the 3rd or rear 02 sensor. This may get 86'd. From what I'm reading this does not effect the tune and is basically there as "reporting device" used when it is smogged; which it won't be! Also, I 86'd the 2 covers I made for the starter and clutch slave and replaced them with one large black metal box which I made . As it turned out the clearances weren't large enough (in my mind) with the 2 individual covers. This will give me a service access for future repairs, too! As it sits, the roof will still fit in the trunk!

Click to view attachment

Click to view attachment

Next up.......... a foolish attempt to design and construct an exhaust system. It will be aluminized steel rather than SS. Many reasons for now and I may go SS later when I learn to weld SS.

My Lord do I envy the cleanliness of your harnesses! Mine is still hanging together by alligator clips!

Looking good Kent! I was just about to ask you how the hell to use that spring you sent me... Great idea! I'll put that in today. I was getting a little "snapping" sound from the grommet moving in and out of the hole but that washer will stop that from happening. Can't wait to take the thing apart again . The front of the center tunnel is sharp ain't it? And you can't use gloves or you'll keep dropping the clevis pin right? Oh well, it'll be great when it's all done.

HUGE updates coming on my end...although my wiring looks a lot more like Ross's than yours. I'll try to update it by tomorrow.