Kent,
You clean up well.
Love the use of the rubber boots at the fire wall.

Where are you with your axles?
I have my axles and get ready to send them out to http://www.dutchmanaxles.com/services
I will send them a CV ID spline for final fitment and have Sawtooth's drawing for referance. I think it was Sawtooth that used 18"overall, so I added that to my printout of his drawing.
I recall you had a problem with length. Did you go with 18" and one was too long, one too short?
After axles, that's it, trany swap weekend.

Edit: I checked the axles that I have and I will have a hard time cutting 16 3/8" down to 18" long

Edit #2 The best I can tell this 30 spline count can most likely be found on the 02-early 04 WRX (STI only).
They may be on some older (hard to find) heavy load applications like an 04 legacy TT. They also seemed to be far more common on JDM models.

Edit #3 After getting my axles back from resplining and removing 30 mm. I found, I was sold something other than 914 axles. 16 3/8 should have been a clue. I was thinking 18" was a typo.
I sent the axles that came out of the car to Dutchman. Removing 30 mm looked good to me. That came out to about 19 1/8".

Damn Mike, I missed this entirely. Now I understand your text msg. Sorry man, but you have the info, now. My axles are on and fit. The difference is in the CV's. Two different brands and while yes, the final E-E measurements are the same the cupped end that goes adjacent to the tranny hub varies. So, I connect the R side 1st then the L side. They should have everything on file @ Dutchman. Look back in this thread and you will see where I marked the take off on a piece of blue tape on the axle. You can remove another mm to be safe. Talk to Travis @ Dutchman
My exhaust system is ordered and parts should arrive this week. 4 different warehouses are shipping to me so it may take a few days. In the meantime I decided to install the inserts for the heated seats. I made an offer to an ebay vendor a few weeks back and received a 20% discount. That was even better so I ordered a set for $40 shipped. I won't go thru a step by step of seat covering removal as it is already documented in the Classic thread forum. I will say it is easy and takes about 3 hr's. When complete, each seat has 2 connectors beneath which connect to a harness. That harness has a relay, fuse and Hi/Lo switch. I'll complete the install when the console is back in place.

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I drew a quick reference line around the materials border before pulling the staples.

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Remove the cover slowly so you don't tear the foam

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Lay the mat in place and tape it with supplied tape then stick the plug end out the back.

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The back piece is identicle to the seat except that it has two adhesives strips to help hold it in place.

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Hopefully the exhaust will be finished in 2 weeks. I took the car off "NonOp" status 2 weeks ago so I'll be able to test drive it when that day comes.

Moving right along, I think the brake question is answered so I can quit worrying over that . After pm's with Eric I have old style hoses on my '73. Added to the punch list. Remember my fiasco with the gages? They have found a home. Ross (Rnellums) has a circuit board so I sent them to him. Or so I thought. Tonite I found the Speedometer in my 914 cabinet. I have no idea what I sent him. Ross, if you read this I sent you a pm. On a brighter note, parts are arriving.

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The 7' section of tube arrived this afternoon and the above parts arrived yesterday. I'm still awaiting the 2.5" 90's. The order is being shipped from 4 warehouse locations, GA, OH, NV and I forget the 4th one. When the remainder arrive I'll post up the pic's of my exhaust system. And try to show you how this round 2.5" pipe

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Gets shaped to fit the oval Suby header flange.

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I have a feeling that this is going to be way more official than my jury roped setup! Keep it up!

How is the exhaust coming?

Yours is inventive and might be the way to go. Who knows what will work
I started to layout the exhaust system and immediately found the mufflers were too long. In fact I needed to rethink the situation in order to fit any mufflers in there. I found some 14" long mufflers that I'll use but for now I did what I could.
The EZ30D has an oval exhaust outlet on the header and then transitions to round. Bob (bigkat83) had told me how this is done so this is it. I used a 2.5" 90 for this transition piece. Because of my limited space front to rear I needed to have that 90 turn at a 45 degree angle, outwards from the engine rather than straight back. So I drew this circle with marks every 45 degrees then placed the vertical part over it and traced those marks onto the tube.

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Then placed that piece in the vise and began compressing it slowly. Using those marks you can index the 90 on a 45 degree angle before squeezing. Every so often I hit the ends with the ball end of the hammer to help elongate the tube and rounding the end.

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After a few minutes it looked like this

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Then I beveled and polished the bottom edge of the flange

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Then tap the flange over the tube slowly working it down with the hammer.

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Until it looked like this

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Without the flange

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A test fit up

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Horizontal piece of 2.5" 90 is cut to length and reduced to 2" w/ a 45 degree turn

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Beginning to line up

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Some different views. Oddly enough I should not need any tube. Just these fittings and a muffler. I tacked up the first few pieces but left the last 2 45 degree bends until the muffler is fitted. I think I should gas weld it so the welds aren't as brittle. FWIW, it's 16ga Aluminized Steel, not SS. And the tube at the end will be replaced with a muffler. The section of tube is handy for lining up your fittings, though.

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Why reduce the exhaust? The turbo will be happier with a bigger exhaust.

I'm crazy and ran a full 4" exhaust...

That looks awesome. and it looks like you will have plenty of ground clearance!

Has he got a turbo on the EZ30?

No turbo (yet) Mike. It would be easier to route the tube if it were Turbo'd. I have a lot of room in front of the engine. In it's factory configuration it ran a 2.5", "2 into 1" or single exhaust system. Outhouse engineering here but I'm hoping I get similar results doing it this way.

I received the missing reducer and 02 bungs so I was able to finish the exhaust system today. I welded in the bungs, screwed in the 02 sensors and began assm.

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My mufflers and hangers

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And with the bumper installed. I'll add some tips later but this is it for the exhaust now.

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Nice work! Howzzit sound with the shorty glasspacks on there?

Those pipes look amazing! How did you get them placed so well?

We need audio

Looks great! Nice work! I bet you're tired of welding now, but at least it's done. Let's hear it!

I'll post an audio later this week when I start it. My 63 YO was too tired to put gas in it when I finished yesterday. The combination of heat and humidity put me in my place. My punch list is down to 24 items. Mostly, small items conjured up to satisfy my OCD. I'm sure that count will change after I drive it.
To answer your question Ross; time and luck. I spent several hours with this because "it shows". Once I was satisfied with the left bank I duplicated the measurements for the right bank.
It's amazing to me that the 3 of us (Ross, Chris and yours truely) started about the same time and finish about the same time. I would say the 4 of us but one of us took the "Divorce Detour". The 3 Subateer's.

Mine's driveable, but i'm sure its going to take a lot more optimization as we go than yours or Chris'!

And here is what it sounds like. My comp skills are lacking so I'll just post the links. A real throttle cable should arrive next week then it's drive time and start shaking out the bugs. I'm not finished but getting closer.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y34k42Ck_20...eature=youtu.be

and

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zruK06mQbIA...eature=youtu.be

Sounds great! Are the fans in front really that ratty sounding or is it just the audio quality? Sounds like they're on their last legs!

LOL. No they aren't. They're new and quite. It's just echo audio in that part of the garage. I love that big assed alternator on that thing. It can handle any load.

Well, one week short of 19 months and it finally hit the road again. It was just a quick trip with a jury rigged accelerator cable. Funny thing, I started it and the sky literally opened up. No complaints, we're in a drought! So 1 hour later I took it around the hood for a quickie! I'm not getting much pedal travel so I don't know what WFO feels like but sweeeeeeeeeeeet sheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeet, I've got a six . I know what Ross meant by 1st gear happens quick. I need to be pay attention to power management in the coming weeks and not let this thing get too far ahead of me. Not used to the power yet but I'm pretty sure I'll be addicted in another day or two. The P/W ratio is so absurd you can take off in 2nd or 3rd. I was going up a hill in the hood 20mpn in 4th; no problem. GPS speedo is kick ass. Next several weeks will be chasing gremlins and de-bugging but as it is, I'm happier than a 2 petered Billy Goat.

That's amazing. So you filled the radiator? How are the temps? I spent all day in the garage...still there in fact. Wiring.

Oh yeah, filled the radiator but limited short runs until I get the temp gage working. It's circulating the water but I run the fans manually until I can "see" the temps. Once I see the temps I'll connect the ECU fan control wires. I got some input from Bob (BIGKAT83) re: the burp tank/reservoir theory, location/placement and an air/water bleed tap on the engine itself. Don't know where I'd be w/o the Godfathers help. I thought I'd felt some low cycle oscillation at 5mph which could have been old tires sitting in one spot for over a year or I may have to reinforce the the cross bar on my engine cradle. Chris and I are in league with this clutch development and may have another few weeks before we are satisfied with the final product. All I will say at this point is that it works but it is stiff. Very glad that I added the brace to these set ups at this point! More on this as it evolves. Without seats and only a pillow for support I look like an 11 year old driving around the hood. I think I shall install the drivers seat today and test out the "Bun Warmer" while it's installed. Also, I should get a shift knob w/ the correct shift pattern installed soon as I almost took out my garage wall once, already. I don't think testing will be far enough along to allow a trip to RRC this year. If it is ready by then it would be a last minute decision. I think I'll set my sites on the G&R Fall Event for this year instead!

Congrats on finishing the conversion. Can't wait to see it.
It sounds great.

Awesome news man!I'm still looking at gauges in the passenger foot well

Dang...that is one quiet motor!

WOW!!! beautiful exhaust note. i looking forward to the 'on the roll' video @ 6k. your neighbors will be giving you the squinty eyed look real soon. great work!!!! the 1.7 badging is perfect. as you leave the young guys that want to challenge you in the dust they'll be all . ha. again , GREAT WORK!!!

Nice Kent

I heard you grunt getting out of the car ... I can relate

Kent.... here is how I did my mufflers. At cruise this is as quiet as my wifes Camry.
When I'm at a stoplight I have to look at the tach to make sure its still running.
From the rear
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Under
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I'm super excited for you. Very glad one of "us" is on the road.

I hope to be the next, but I'm OK to be the last as well. ;-)

Thx Ravi, I've got to fine tune the clutch then it's Dawn Patrol time again.


Quit putting yours down. Your an engineer and I'm sure you will end up shaming my project.


Uh Thx, I guess. Those graph's are out of my reach.


Thx Kev, I'm used to that look. I got that when I built a plane in my garage. BTW, that 1.7 badge is a Lure.


Uh, I'm pretty sure that was a fart, Mark.


Thx Bob, I understand now


It's worth the wait, Doug. When you get yours running you'll have to park down the street so as not to embarrass the rest of us.

Good News!

I have some new roads to show you...PM me when you're up for a shakeout run

It appears that,
D=52
B=probably 60
A=57
C=50
E=67, but doesn't appear to add up, looks too close to the edge for that, if 91 MM is C to C, and 210 MM is the OAL?

Small diameter holes would probably be whatever the bolt sizes are that hold the MC.

Undergoing modifications to this area and it's related appurtenances as we speak. Updates are coming and will be posted here in the next week or so. Chris and I are currently working on an improved version. BRB

If you received a Master Cylinder plate from me I have important update information. First, the 3/4" Wilwood will work but it is very hard to push. Also, Chris and I had "sealing" problems with their reservoirs. I had to pull my tank to clean beneath it after mine leaked. Anyway at Chris' suggestion, and I'm pretty sure he stole it from BIGCAT83 , we tried a 5/8" Honda MC. It requires some quick modifications to the plate which I'll post here with detailed instructions, in the next week. If any of you feel uncomfortable with DIY then send it to me and I'll do it for you.
Another very positive experience with one of our vendors, Terry Cable. The first accelerator cable sent was bass akwards of what I ordered. When I called they said no problem and 4 days later, here it is. They are a very personable, customer oriented business. It arrived today and I put that puppy on tonite so that I could try the new clutch setup. That and to finally "put my foot into it"! The clutch motion requires no effort and is smoother than greased owl shit. It shifted so nicely I took it for a quick spin on a country road behind us. I now have 6 whole miles on it; 4 tonite. A big positive is that I'm not experiencing any cooling problems at all , yet . I need to install a burp tank as I lose about 4oz's after it shuts down but I just top off before starting it. That short run tonite made every hour of the project worth it. Even the wiring. Damn that is some fun. You want to kinda aim that thing before you goose it. I'm not complete by any means but I think I'm out of the forest. Time to install the interior and buy those OEM side mirrors that I'd promised myself if it ran. I wonder if RRC would be pushing it.

Great update! You really worked hard on that clutch thing. Definitely stole the idea...many people (including BIGKAT/Bob) mentioned the Honda MC, some even IN MY BUILD THREAD. Don't know why I didn't read it more closely. BTW it's worth mentioning that the OEM for Honda is Nissin. That's the best one, but there are also many aftermarket ones that are half that price. The one I read NOT to buy on a couple of Civic sites is the Omni brand. Shorter throw, harder to push, leaks after a few years.

So pumped that yours is ready to go! Start putting some miles on it to build confidence and join me at RRC! I just crested 200 miles on mine this week and its still putting a smile on my face every time I drive!

My hard work was due in fact to my own ignorance. The final product is the result of many others before me. My specialty is stealing ideas and painting them a different colour. Thanks for your hours of researching parts availability and prices.


We'll see. I certainly have no problem camping but I have my daughters wedding in Oct so my window of opportunity is growing smaller every day.

Congrats Kent!

Nothing better than turning the key after a long build, car sounds awesome, it's got to be a blast finally driving it.

You guys have done so much fabrication to simplify the suby conversion future projects will get easier as time goes, still considering it for the black car.....but lately I keep thinking LS1, we'll see. Nice work, bring it to RRC...love to see it.

Great job,
Jeff

Again....Congrats man. I'm super happy for you.

I think I'm going to need to bring in reinforcements to get me across the finish line with mine. I've come too far, and I'm sick of looking at a 3/4 done project.

The clutch thing you engineered. That was the hard part. I was the one who was "borrowing" ideas...wait...did you steal my idea stealing idea ? LOL! I think that's the lesson we learned...if someone else got it to work well, DO THAT. "Cause they probably already tried the alternatives.

We'll all be driving soon!

Doug, focus on something that you can finish, even if it's small. You can do it!

[quote name='76-914' date='Aug 14 2014, 08:14 PM' post='2074062']
If you received a Master Cylinder plate from me I have important update information. First, the 3/4" Wilwood will work but it is very hard to push. Also, Chris and I had "sealing" problems with their reservoirs. I had to pull my tank to clean beneath it after mine leaked. Anyway at Chris' suggestion, and I'm pretty sure he stole it from BIGCAT83 , we tried a 5/8" Honda MC. It requires some quick modifications to the plate which I'll post here with detailed instructions.

Is this reservoir leaking an isolated case, or are there others that are experiencing the same problem, along with hard pushing of it?

[quote name='partwerks' date='Aug 15 2014, 08:25 PM' post='2074380']
[quote name='76-914' date='Aug 14 2014, 08:14 PM' post='2074062']
If you received a Master Cylinder plate from me I have important update information. First, the 3/4" Wilwood will work but it is very hard to push. Also, Chris and I had "sealing" problems with their reservoirs. I had to pull my tank to clean beneath it after mine leaked. Anyway at Chris' suggestion, and I'm pretty sure he stole it from BIGCAT83 , we tried a 5/8" Honda MC. It requires some quick modifications to the plate which I'll post here with detailed instructions.

Is this reservoir leaking an isolated case, or are there others that are experiencing the same problem, along with hard pushing of it?
[/quote]
Yep, I'm sure others will chime in at some point. After I thought about it I realized it's just common sense. If both ends are = in diameter then it is the same thing as you sitting behind the trans pushing the clutch fork in with your leg. No mechanical advantage. Remember the old 3 sp English bikes that came with a tire pump clipped to the cross bar and how skinny it was. Those tires took a lot of pressure and the fat pumps we used for our Western Flyers wouldn't do it. Chris said the Honda MC on ebay was only $29 used. I have one and it works great. Another plus is you won't have to cut the belly pan to accept it like the Wilwood required. I'll doc it all here is a few days. I'm waiting on some more parts to do Chris' so I'll shoot pic's then.

[quote name='76-914' date='Aug 15 2014, 08:31 PM' post='2074391']
[quote name='partwerks' date='Aug 15 2014, 08:25 PM' post='2074380']
[quote name='76-914' date='Aug 14 2014, 08:14 PM' post='2074062']
If you received a Master Cylinder plate from me I have important update information. First, the 3/4" Wilwood will work but it is very hard to push. Also, Chris and I had "sealing" problems with their reservoirs. I had to pull my tank to clean beneath it after mine leaked. Anyway at Chris' suggestion, and I'm pretty sure he stole it from BIGCAT83 , we tried a 5/8" Honda MC. It requires some quick modifications to the plate which I'll post here with detailed instructions.

Is this reservoir leaking an isolated case, or are there others that are experiencing the same problem, along with hard pushing of it?
[/quote]
Yep, I'm sure others will chime in at some point. After I thought about it I realized it's just common sense. If both ends are = in diameter then it is the same thing as you sitting behind the trans pushing the clutch fork in with your leg. No mechanical advantage. Remember the old 3 sp English bikes that came with a tire pump clipped to the cross bar and how skinny it was. Those tires took a lot of pressure and the fat pumps we used for our Western Flyers wouldn't do it. Chris said the Honda MC on ebay was only $29 used. I have one and it works great. Another plus is you won't have to cut the belly pan to accept it like the Wilwood required. I'll doc it all here is a few days. I'm waiting on some more parts to do Chris' so I'll shoot pic's then.
[/quote]
Do you have a link handy with the picture of the MC you are referring to?

[/quote]
Do you have a link handy with the picture of the MC you are referring to?
[/quote]
I had posted it on page 11 of this thread.

[quote name='BIGKAT_83' date='Aug 16 2014, 01:14 AM' post='2074414']
[/quote]
Do you have a link handy with the picture of the MC you are referring to?
[/quote]
I had posted it on page 11 of this thread.
[/quote]
Hard to see in the pic, being painted black, but is this even remotely close?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Brake-Master-C...e54&vxp=mtr

What year of Honda?

No, not even close.....Thats a brake master cylinder for power brakes.
The clutch master cylinder I posted is the aluminum one on the left.
There is a shop in Kansas City doing a LS2/Boxster transaxle conversion now. This guy does first class work. I would suggest that you take your car to him.

If your interested I can PM you his contact info.

I'm in manufacturing. You'll have to check with Chris in supply. I honestly don't know but we'll get that info to you soon. Here is a shot of one installed but I'm getting ahead of myself.

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[quote name='76-914' date='Aug 15 2014, 09:31 PM' post='2074391']
[quote name='partwerks' date='Aug 15 2014, 08:25 PM' post='2074380']
[quote name='76-914' date='Aug 14 2014, 08:14 PM' post='2074062']
If you received a Master Cylinder plate from me I have important update information. First, the 3/4" Wilwood will work but it is very hard to push. Also, Chris and I had "sealing" problems with their reservoirs. I had to pull my tank to clean beneath it after mine leaked. Anyway at Chris' suggestion, and I'm pretty sure he stole it from BIGCAT83 , we tried a 5/8" Honda MC. It requires some quick modifications to the plate which I'll post here with detailed instructions.

Is this reservoir leaking an isolated case, or are there others that are experiencing the same problem, along with hard pushing of it?
[/quote]
Yep, I'm sure others will chime in at some point. After I thought about it I realized it's just common sense. If both ends are = in diameter then it is the same thing as you sitting behind the trans pushing the clutch fork in with your leg. No mechanical advantage. Remember the old 3 sp English bikes that came with a tire pump clipped to the cross bar and how skinny it was. Those tires took a lot of pressure and the fat pumps we used for our Western Flyers wouldn't do it. Chris said the Honda MC on ebay was only $29 used. I have one and it works great. Another plus is you won't have to cut the belly pan to accept it like the Wilwood required. I'll doc it all here is a few days. I'm waiting on some more parts to do Chris' so I'll shoot pic's then.
[/quote]
If the Honda MC is 5/8, I get the feeling, I will not be happy with the .700 bore Tilton that I have. Like everything else, I started liking the Honda MC more and more after I payed good money for the Tiltion.