I was just considering running the lines through the long on the passenger side. Good to see that coming together Kent! I need to get mine going. Was hoping to have it done for Red Rocks. Doubtful with it off for paint now. I'll get it back less than a week before I leave. So I will probably just finish my center console & deal with the a/c over the winter

The controls are mounted on the under dash unit I am using. I wanted to use Vintage Air's Gen2 Mini system but it is 1/2"nom too tall to fit beneath the cowling. If using that model I would have used their adapters to convert the OEM controls while in there. Very simple believe it or not. And I would have used that model if the car were completely apart. Then I could do some cutting and welding to make it fit. Another evaporator that caught my eye is a cheap $60 Chinese unit http://www.ebay.com/itm/Universal-Under-Dash-AC-Air-Conditioner-Add-On-Unit-12V-8-5A-3-Speed-UN-0888C-/351494122081?hash=item51d6aeaa61&vxp=mtr that has 4ea. - 2.25" openings. 2 for the OEM dash vents and 2 for the defrost. No way to isolate them so it would always blow thru all 4 but that is not a problem unless you like foggy windscreens. The challenge is that the unit is 12" deep which doesn't leave any wiggle room and you can't lay the unit on it's back to aim those outlets upwards. I think it is doable but I'm concerned about the units longevity as well. This is the unit I will use. Heating and cooling! http://www.ebay.com/itm/130609850519?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT I will need to trim a tad bit off of the console to fit. A bit more on the right side than left. But take a close look at the pic and you can see the 2 openings on top for the defrost. Those openings end up dead center beneath the defrost vents so that will be convenient. Look for many screw ups along the way. You remember my fiasco with the gages.


Jamie, you can run behind the valance on either side or in the long. And the std barrier hose would fit w/o kinking. Just make sure it is the same side as the AC connections on your evaporator. I still need to run some water lines for the heater. I may run them up the tunnel or use the drivers side valance. They won't put off any heat unless I am using the heat. Then it becomes a moot point. GM has a nice 4 port heater valve. It's vacuum actuated so you need a vacuum solenoid as well. About $50 for the both of them.

Then I could do some cutting and welding to make it fit. Another evaporator that caught my eye is a cheap $60 Chinese unit http://www.ebay.com/itm/Universal-Under-Da...a61&vxp=mtr that has 4ea. - 2.25" openings. 2 for the OEM dash vents and 2 for the defrost. No way to isolate them so it would always blow thru all 4 but that is not a problem unless you like foggy windscreens.

I just bought that one to try, does not fit. Should require more cutting than the GenII unit would.

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If I gave up on the idea of keeping the tock gas tank and when for a fuel cell, then I might not have all these issues. I would have other to deal with, but not this one.

Under dash certainly solves the problem, but then it clutters up the 914 cabin. I have started to think, even though I don't like them a center console could give me the space I need for all the modern getting soft niceties. Don't get me wrong, I like driving with out sweet rings and a wet back. I like not getting swamp ass after a long trip, and I really like after on those cool fall mornings not having to drive a 914 in a parka on my way to an event.

I would love for an under cowl unit to be made and maybe I should just get back to body work, but part of that for me is sanitary line running and getting the provision done before I put a finish coat of paint on the car. Heck it would be nice to keep it in epoxy primer as much as I change my car. Rat rod here I come. At least it would be one color!

Forgot to say thanks for the bracket, made it here safely.

And here is the mockup GenII Micro unit in a 914, as Kent said, minor issue with fitment. In reality until I have one in my hands, I don't know how close it is, but I am thinking you could move the fan, over some and duct it back into the unit. Might get by with very little cutting at that point and still run the stock gas tank.

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I decided to buy one of these for a couple of reasons. I knew I would make umpteen trips if I went to some company and that would get old quick. It came in a nice case with #6,8,10 & 12 dies. Reduced barrier dies are available and not included with this kit. This is their entry level model and if I did this for a living I would spring for their Hydraulic hand pump kit. That sucker can fit anywhere.

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I needed to make something so I could use this as a portable device as well. So I mounted it on a piece of 2" tube to give me some leverage when tightening.

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This is the best reason to purchase one of these tools. This is a trick the Pros use. By twisting the hose you can get it to conform to bends w/ very little manipulation. The other end is a bulkhead fitting and crimped 90 degrees off so that when it is twisted to penetrate the front trunk it twists the hose. This twist makes the hose follow the seam that the hose is clamped to. It would be a Bitch to take the hose to someone and hope they got it correct. And I would need huge holes to pull the hose thru if fittings were installed beforehand.

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The #8 bulkhead fitting from the wheel well side.

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And from the trunk side.

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And a few more.

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Oh wow another tool to buy, unless you want to recoup some of your investment, I, have an addiction, feed the addict!!!

Found it Oh they have brake line and AN flaring tools also.

Awesome! Looks fantastic!

Let me know if you want to sell it when your done!

I may just have to come visit to have you do the lines for mine

Tell me about it. Hi, my name is Kent and I'm a Tool Whore!


Thanks Andrew. I'm looking forward to watching your build. I'd rent it out to folks I know for $30 + shipping.


Anytime my friend. Let me know when your ready.

And now; Back to work.

This morning I mounted the dryer. A hose clamp helps hold the dryer as well as 2 O-rings. You can see the grommet in the upper left corner that the hose passes thru. I need to keep this area air tight where possible.

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I ran out of fittings so the hose just stops at the bulkhead fitting for now.

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Another view after it passes thru the grommet. Getting a little crowded in this area.

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I need to find someone to weld these aluminum fittings together. Rather than use 4 fittings to go from the Subaru OEM Reduced barrier fittings on the compressor I decided to Marry 1/2 their tube to 1/2 of a beadlock fitting. It will be much tidier in the end.

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Once those are welded up I can cut these to final length and crimp these 2 fittings.

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Still have the binary switch to wire in.

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An O-Ring on both sides helps support the dryer

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Now the hi and low lines are run together sans the Adel clamps. They should arrive next week.

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cont'd.

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And I need 2 more bulkhead fittings to get these 2 open hoses into the cabin and tied into the evaporator. More after I receive some more fittings.

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I will take you up on that!

Great looking build! I thinking going to run my lines through the heater hose tunnel. My car was a dealer AC car so I have the provisions on the pass side but I think I would rather do it this way, save from running them near the wheels.

What condenser did you go with?

Just holler when your ready, Andy. I think that's a great area to run your lines thru the longs. That wasn't an option for me as I used the longs for radiator lines. I may try to "sneak" the water lines for the heater up thru the tunnel, though. If I use some SS braided hose I may have enough space but crap that stuff is $$$$. Why is shiny car expensive? Inferior minds want to know.

Forgot to answer Andrew's question. It's the OG compressor, came with the donor car, an LL Bean.

Look what was waiting on me when I got home today. Man am I impressed. Talk about "under promise, over deliver"! I can't recall the last time I received a product so complete and professionally made. BTW, Made in the San Antonio, TX. Even the ABS cover is made in in house. All relays, solenoids, hose, hangers are included. I can't detect China on it anywhere. And, if you need support, have a question or whatever you talk to one of their in house techs for free. A+ product, A+ service.

Now I'm starting to get a picture of what is in store for me. Bob (BIGKAT83) tried to warn me. . 1st order is to pull the old fresh air/heater box as it will not be needed. Anybody need one? Then out come the seats, carpet and console, again. Re-configure the glove box to pick up another 2" of passenger leg room and the console to accept the evap unit, remove the dash (IIRC 4th in Mikey's line ), tie defrost and panel vents into the new evaporator, run vacuum lines/reservoir and everything else I'm forgetting. If I'm finished in 3 weeks I will be happy.

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Why? Just tap into your hot line to your radiator. Add a T fitting & you have your hot water for heat up front

That's a nice looking under-dash unit.

Does your 'old' fresh air box include the fan unit? ... and does the fan work on all 3 speeds? Mine only works on the medium setting

If so, and nobody else NEEDS it, I'll throw my hat in the ring

I did not realize these require vac, I thought it used electric for the servos

Good question, Jamie. I want to use the Subaru Heater loop as it was intended but primarily to gain extra volume and to keep hot water out of the pipes unless it's called for. In the next few weeks you'll see the GM 4 port bypass valve I'm using and it only has 1 moving part. It's vacuum actuated as well. I believe I would need 2 tees to tap into those lines; supply/return and the piping takes up valuable real estate. If I use #10 SS braided hose I will have room above the tunnel because of my armrest and console.


TY. Probably not. If it does work on all three speeds I wouldn't know it. I can't even hear myself Fart, anymore.


Steve, the defrost gate/door is vacuum actuated and the heater control valve they ship is vacuum actuated. As I mentioned to Jamie, I am using another heater valve but I will use the vacuum solenoid they provided. I'm thinking I need to add a vacuum reservoir in the engine bay then run a 3mm vacuum line up the tunnel.

I looked at the link you provided and at the bottom it looked like they advertised it as a Vintage Air unit- same controls, same price at $345. That's the one or is it a different manufacturer? Looks pretty slick! If you keep the heater valve closed, you shouldn't have any hot water running through your system so unless I'm figuring wrong, you should be able to tap into your hot side radiator plumbing without unnecessary hot water heating up your cabin. You'd eliminate a lot of extra tubing and work if you could, but then you knew that... just trying to help because I'm looking at a similar setup and your work is an inspiration- nice to be able to pick anothers' brain via the Interweb!

It is a Vintage Air unit. They will sell direct at the same list price but you pay shipping. Most of their retail reps sell at list but pay shipping. Maybe I'm confused here but you don't mention a return line either. It does flow THRU it and not TO it, correct? And FWIW, my supply and return lines run in the longs. I would need to T into each line behind the speaker pods then run the drivers side (return in my case) line behind/under the dash. Who knows how it will end up in the end. I guess this is all conjecture until I have a working system in play.

Did you ever think about using hard lines? You would need a tig welder, but it would be a cleaner looking job. You would lose that ugly big rubber hose,and have nice steel lines.
Lots of A.C. shops can weld the ends on,if you do not own a tig welder.

Another good point and yes, I did. I can't TIG and didn't trust a Silver Solder joint to hold up long term. And, I'm too lazy to make x trips to a AC shop. In the end I decided that running the rubber lines was the prudent action as the $$ saved allowed me to purchase a bead lock tool. Not to mention the elimination of 4 extra connection points if metal lines were used. I do agree that it would have looked sharp w/ metal lines running down the side but ultimately that area is covered by the valance.

I'll buy you a beer if you keep a list of the different fittings and hose sizes, ect. It would be nice to have a paper "kit" saved so just an order or two would have everything ready to start assembly. My shop has the tools but your example would save many hours and dollars. thanks

Sure. I received the remainder of the fittings tonite. 1st, I need to correct a screw up. I installed the condenser upside down. A 5 min flip was no problem except I need to make another #6 short hose, so additional fittings were ordered. Also busted my old heater box removing it but salvaged 2 important parts that will allow the tie-in of the dash vents and defrost vents to new A/C & Heat.

True, it does flow through it when the heater valve is open. So 1 tee on the hot side for incoming and another tee to the cool side for out of the core. At least it would keep it all up front rather than heating up your center console which I've heard from others can be, well, overheating in the cabin. Just putting ideas out there- loving your progress so far!

Where do you get your supplies from?

The evap unit was purchased from Summit. Vintage Air has a list of retailers on their website. I chose Summit because I already had an account with them and all of their retailers are the same price anyway. 95% of the Bead Lock fittings and all of the hose came from EBay seller Johnsjoysl. I may have that misspelled but I'll check later. The guys name is John Kusak. A great seller. Although EBay shows a separate shipping charge for each item, John will credit your CC account with the overcharge shipping that occurs on ebay. The Adel clamps were purchased on ebay as well.

Can not find his account. Can you link to a product?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/311324606669?_trks...K%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
This is "one" of his items but it has the link to his store.

Prices look pretty good! I have been looking at coldhose.com and your guys pricing is nicely cheaper!

Well, today was a full day. With the heater box out that dark recessed area was now an eye sore. I wiped down an area to the left

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Then it got good to me so I scrubbed and waxed the old paint

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With that out of the way I moved on to finish the piping portion. As it turned out I was short one 90 and 2' of #10 hose. I'll just post some pic's as they speak for themselves.

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Before these last 2 hoses could be located and punched out the evap unit needed to be located and hung in place and only then can you locate those final firewall or bulkhead fittings. Since it was shipped in a urethane clam shell w/ a flat side I used the bottom piece as a support then just shimmed beneath that until I was close enough to begin positioning it.

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And here it is in place. What'da think?

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I almost shit in my shoes when I first began searching for a way to attach the evaporator. I was sure it was Fab time and I didn't want to cut my Cherry lower dash so I pulled out an old cracked one to fiddle with when I saw it. NO cutting or drilling that would ruin a good dash piece. Two of the screws that hold that piece in place lined up with the units support brackets. I just needed to R&R the OEM screws w/ ones 35mm in length and place some steel stand offs beneath the bracket so it could not be tightened against the vinyl.
This is the hole on the far right psg side

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And this one is 2 holes down to the drivers side. The 2 brackets supplied are not symmetrical and I'm quite sure I have them inverted from their intended orientation but who gives a The bracket on the drivers side needed to have a hole drilled 1" off center from the supplied hole but other than that it fits and I'm 6 hr's ahead of the game.

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Some piping from the rear

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I always wondered why my control cable wouldn't slide all the way over
No wonder these pieces didn't want to separate. From inside the Drivers side.

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and the psg side

gate pressure bowed this one over time

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The Electric Kool Aid Assed Test. My big ass fits comfortably. My wife has a ton of leg room but she is only 5'. The red post (between my feet)will be removed when I attach the rear supports.

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Wow, 2 weeks since I posted. I usually can't keep my mouth shut that long. I've been moving at a snails pace but it picked up this weekend after I received more materials. One of the things I went back on was to add support to the AC and water lines. Most of the sleeved areas aren't visible.

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The heater section is pretty straight forward. The Subaru engine has a separate heater loop that I am using so I won't be tying into the in/out radiator lines. FYI, it allows for a faster warm up in the cabin and a few other engine items as well. I had the 5/8" water lines looped together previously but now that I need that circuit I'm using this GM vacuum actuated 4 port bypass valve. Only one moving part.

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I added this Dorman Vacuum Reservoir that fits in the support arm's groove perfectly.

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Then there was the matter of getting the water lines down the tunnel. And there is also a couple of vacuum lines threaded thru that jungle. I changed religion 3 different times during this course of the install but finally found the trick. Both lines run from heater to bypass valve w/o any splices. In this pic you see where the lines pop back out of the tunnel. When all is working and in it's final spot I will cut channels in the urethane foot rest so that surface remains flat and the carpet lays evenly.

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I had to clearance the access cover at the front of the tunnel to allow passage of the hoses.

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A peek at the lines as the pass beneath the rear access cover.

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Exiting out the firewall. These still need metal sleeves where they pass thru.

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This is one of the best aspects of this under dash unit that I'm using. It has a separate defrost circuit that I'm going to use. But I needed to use a little Out House Engineering. A little aluminum crudely shaped with a 2" flange riveted in place. Then this piece is pop riveted to the OEM supply elbow which is cannibalized from the OEM air box. So, when I select AC or Heat it will blow from the vents of the under dash unit. And when I select defrost the air will divert to these little units and flow out the defrost vent and/or the OEM fresh air vent. The OEM vents can always be closed to boost the defrost or opened to defrost the door glass.

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The heater lines connected. Wait till you see how the speaker cover even goes back into place, slightly trimmed. It's going to be tight!

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After I cleaned the elbows that the aluminum adapters connect with I decided to take a look at the other side. the inside. Before

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And after

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Great work!! Really impressed with some of the fab you did. Like your solution for the defrosters, I was considering cutting them back to the first hole and just using that hole for my setup. I was thinking of using ABS plastic for the cap and plastic welding it then finishing it up with silicone and paint like you did.

Kent not sure you answered this but I think Andrew asked also.

Where did you get your condenser at?

Thx Andy but not AC grade work. Then again I don't have to find a landing spot to fix screw ups. Your skills are showing thru as well. And to all the other guys going this route, I'll have some AC/Heat items to sell cheaply after I'm finished!
Stephan, here is that link http://www.ebay.com/itm/351173823661?_trks...K%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

I thought I posted this last nite but it ain't here today sooooooooooo otra vez.

I made this rail cap ( .025 2024 T-3)

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To seal this gap on top

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Attaching

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Well that was fun. Just spent an hour loading and lost it all. God Damnned Explorer. And fucking Firefox likes to stop receiving text input about every 20 seconds so I'm typing away while the cursor just sits there. FUCK< FUCK< FUCK. These next post will be truncated and not more than 5 fucking minutes each. So now I'll get back to how I ran duct to the OEM dash vents from the new AC/Heat system that the God Damned fucking internet has tried to fuck up for me.

The original openings will be used to run the duct from the new unit.

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The template used for the base plate and base plate gasket.

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Test fit of the base plates before drilling 2" holes in them

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Welded up. Joints were sealed with Wurth's before paint

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A quick test fit

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Primed

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Cut a couple of gaskets

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Quick couple of coats

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Painted piece fitted in place

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Cleaned up the old rain tray and repurposed it.

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Looks like a great solution. "Cleaned up the old rain tray and repurposed it." For

Right side fitted up and installed in place

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A pic before the tank goes back in

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Driver's side ducting from below

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This is where the duct's connect on the unit. Very close to the metal but it clears.

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You ever have a good idea that really wasn't? I decided to fit the hose to this elbow prior to re-connecting the elbow to the dash panel. I wasted an hour trying to start the upper left nut. The next day I removed the vent which gave me a bit more room to start the nut. Took a few minutes to reconnect the duct to the elbow but much easier this way. The drivers side is a snap.

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Center shot all buttoned up. One of these pic's somewhere shows the ugly blue wires cleaned up.

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Right side

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The renewed rain tray

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Left side

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The ugly blue wires concealed in 1/4" loom

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Hopefully the front trunk area is now complete.

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And only 8 items left on my checklist.

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Fantastic progress! Love the fab work. Great creativity as usual!

Oh so I get it, just your rain water collector system.

Hey, Thx Andy. BTW, You've got a custom dash, right? If so, I have some defrost vents left over from this. If interested I'll post pic's and dimensions. Actually there is less fab work if re-using some of these items albeit, modified a tad. Besides, I really like the look of the 914 and will try to keep it looking like a 914.


Yes and no, Stephan. That aluminum cover (.050") on the bottom is thick enough to accept a shutter. Another place to exhaust hot air from the radiator if I need the extra cooling capacity when the AC is running. If needed I'll cut one in. Since it was cannibalized it removes quite easily. 2 screws and it's out.

Heat and.A/C in a 914-6. Perfect.

What an excellent build...

That is some amazing work.

John

hi pressure zone, might not work like you expect. But Kent at times I think you are crazier than I am, so i'll sit back and let you work ahead. after all you and Chris are like my R&D department.

My goal is a "Gentleman's 914"


Wow, thanks John. Means a lot coming from you. I followed your amazing build which was much more complicated than mine.

So moving along I started on the new console gage panel. I'm down to 2 gage's and an acc plug so the cut out for the AC won't affect me.

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And then these came in. Thanks Dustin and thanks Uncle Dave for the referral. 8 days turn around including shipping! Stellar service! Now I can tie in the evap. I didn't want to lose the nitrogen charge (as it was shipped) by taking the caps off unless I could connect everything to avoid moisture.

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Almost forgot to install this relay

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