Kent
Sorting out gremlins and making things fit. 
The defroster actually blows. I thought it was pretty good then noticed it was on low. Yeah, it works. I did manage to 
a few hours away chasing what I presumed was a vacuum leak only to discover that I needed to turn the blower on before it would energize the vacuum solenoid to the heater valve. 
I found that I have the lines to the heater crossed at the by pass valve but it will just have to stay that way until after the G&R meet manana. 
Sacrifices were inevitable. 
I can see the light at the end of the tunnel getting brighter. 
I couldn't get ANY of the plastic studs to accept the OEM plastic nuts. 
OK. I then tried a 13mm metal nut. Same thing. 
Since I have the patience of a charging Rhinoceros I decided to try this instead. I used a piece of threaded rod I had setting around and cut 9- 7/8" long pieces then set them 5/16" deep into a bit of silicone to lock. Don't set them any deeper than 5/16". This leaves 9/16" exposed. Same as the OEM. Don't throw away the old plastic studs. You might need one like I did. On mine, the far left stud would not thread in. I found the metal threaded piece was "hammered" . I felt the metal tab might dislodge if I tried to tap it so I simply re-installed (read jammed) one plastic stud. Granted it was and is cross threaded into the dash but I don't see removing it in the near future. BTW, don't forget to run the plastic stud thru an 8mm die several times to resize to accept the plastic OEM nut. Dang your old dash was CRACKED!
but thanks to Mark W. it will look a lot nicer now. The one in my white car is perfect; go figure. 
from Apple Butter about AC but I'm learning. I could pull it down but it would leak down almost immediately. I put some dye down the hose before tapping into the Freon can and there it was staring me in the face. The O-ring on the OEM fitting (circled in red) at the compressor was hard as a rock. Missed that 
. The other leak was on the "New" crimp fitting (circled in red as well). Do you see the error? I didn't either until now. Look at the ferrule. Notice the indentations from the crimp aren't as pronounced as the fitting to the right of it? Yep, I crimped a #8 fitting with #10 dies. 
myself but soon realized how to manage it. It was never a problem in town as the peddle get moved a lot. Tom at the EZ30 board enlightened me so I tried it. In the process I discovered that I had connected the VSS signal wire to the ECU but failed to energize it. IOW's, I didn't connect the 12v or ground wire. I started it as I was rolling down the drive and the idle shot up. I stopped and said waited a few seconds and drove down the street in 2nd while it idled high. By the 3rd stop sign the computer accepted the new signal but something else cleared up which was a welcome bonus. Don't know why but the popping/backfire, which I had always attributed to an open and very short exhaust, went away. Sounds Bad Ass during down shifts now. I don't know if it cured the cut out on the hi way yet so I'll cross my fingers until I get it on the open road again. If that was it I see no reason not to install Cruise Control. Don't anybody tell Pat Garvey. 
Anyway, here it is installed. Onward thru the Fog!
! II got to drive rays conversion today, and I have to say, that hydraulic clutch is silky smooth. I'm going to be switching over this winter for sure.
Anyway, here it is installed. Onward thru the Fog!
... I'm trying to get him to expand into the early 911/912 arena too 
myself but soon realized how to manage it. It was never a problem in town as the peddle get moved a lot. Tom at the EZ30 board enlightened me so I tried it. In the process I discovered that I had connected the VSS signal wire to the ECU but failed to energize it. IOW's, I didn't connect the 12v or ground wire. I started it as I was rolling down the drive and the idle shot up. I stopped and said waited a few seconds and drove down the street in 2nd while it idled high. By the 3rd stop sign the computer accepted the new signal but something else cleared up which was a welcome bonus. Don't know why but the popping/backfire, which I had always attributed to an open and very short exhaust, went away. Sounds Bad Ass during down shifts now. I don't know if it cured the cut out on the hi way yet so I'll cross my fingers until I get it on the open road again. If that was it I see no reason not to install Cruise Control. Don't anybody tell Pat Garvey. ?
All joking aside, I couldn't believe it when I saw the gages come to life and the compressor kick in w/o being jumped. I'm happier than a two petered Billy Goat. I'm sure I will have teething pains to address but this entire process has been a mind bender for my little brain. I knew "0" about AC a few month's back and thx to the internet I now have AC/Heat/Defrost/heated seats. I may need to "open up" the front a bit or change radiators or increase fender ducting or...........who knows. I had the console in and out 6 times since I thought I was finished. No matter. At this point the hard work is behind me and only a few mods in front of me. I suspect a few of those will come as next summers heat begins. Can't wait for Mark's roll bar trim to complete my interior.
Seriously, it's too early to say. Haven't driven around town with it yet. Also, I need a day at 90F + to dial it in. It was only 80F yesterday and my hi pressure side was at 190 which is just about right if you follow the std. formula of "ambient temp x 2 + 15% to 20%. IOW, don't want to Jinx myself by talking it up. You should do this. It can be done in a weekend for appx $1000 if your Andrew or 2 weekends for the average Joe. It's not that difficult if you have some direction. Mine took a long time because I had no idea of what, how and on n on. I ended up with plenty of legroom which surprised me. Onward thru the Fog.
. I have dreams of finishing mine. Right now I am wishing my heating unit didn't get taken apart. As a donor that we didn't use anyway. Would much rather have that in my car right now . Still sweet to see yours up & running. Will make the long drives in heat so much nicer This is my situation. I wired my radiators to have a 2 speed function. Ground one of the 2 neg wires and it runs on low speed. If you ground both then it runs on high speed. On the other side is the ECU which normally controls the fan speeds. It also does this thru neg switching. There are 3 wires coming out of the ECU that "supposedly" control the fans. I was a little cautious in the beginning and twisted all 3 together hoping it worked. Well it has but now I want to see if I can determine which of these 3 switching wires does what and when? Make sense so far? I made a temp panel & mounted 3 LED lites in it and placed it so that I can see it in the rear view mirror when driving. My challenge was to isolate each lite from the circuit or all 3 would illuminate at the same time no matter which wire was active. IOW, they will all share a common (+) so if they also share a (-), which they do via the ground connection to the fans, they will all lite up. I placed a small switching diode on each of the 3 wires between the ECU & the junction of the 3 wires. Then I tapped into each wire with a (-) lead going to it's corresponding lite. Hopefully, I'll find that one is low, one is high and the 3rd is . Possibly on the AC circuit and controlled by AC pressures or just the activation of the AC compressor??? Who knows. My only concern in all of this is there can be issues when diodes are run in parallel. I'm hoping that I don't get any "bounce back" since I'm on the neg side. I won't know until I drive it a 
I did fuse the 12v+ connection to the LED's just in case.
Plus, Summit has free shipping on orders over $99 so I'll keep the orders right above $99. First time around I ordered everything at once and ended up returning a few items and I ended up paying additional shipping charges because I didn't have enough for free shipping. Live and learn. Are you working on yours since Winter arrived??
No problem. The shape was my main concern. My concerns were threefold. 1st was quite, then clearance and finally use the existing cutouts on the rear fairing. 
Now that I know it will fit, it is ime to order the parts for the left side. me at WCR and I thought the clamps would stop the rubbing but evidently not. and bring everything inside. I did this on the other side originally. But I got cute with the drivers side and it didn't work so on to So just for shits and grins I stuck the glass packs inline on the exhaust stub outs. I should have taken a pic. Looked like a Hill Billy mod. 
But guess what? It now produced exactly the sound I was looking for but how to do this? Bob (BIGKAT) had tried to tell me this a year ago but I didn't think there was room. Once again I was wrong as you can see in these 2 pic's. Just needed to use a couple of 90's, shorten my cable shift mount 1.5" and those glass packs fit right in. I'm running without a fairing for now but will probably add one later. 
, new setup looks good. So crap, Looks like I'll be running a rear Valance also. Mufflers hand down to far, time to dig mine up, and get to work, just when I thought that area was all done. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Jh-ClYj9LQ8...eature=youtu.be
Nailed it. WAY quieter than before.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Jh-ClYj9LQ8...eature=youtu.be