Hi, I know there have been discussions on here surrounding opening the door gap at top or bottom by using a hydraulic power pack or other tools. I suspect each case requires a little special advice in order to succeed. The PO had a professional body shop redo the body. They put stiffeners back near the rear struts I do not know if they did engmans along the longs? my door has basically no gap at the bottom. I just want daylight down there so it doesn't rub.

Ideas?
thanks,
james

Several threads yo can search on this problem. Too much welding heat it seems. Most of the answers said cut, bend, reweld. I'm sure some of those who went through this will pipe up soon. Good luck.

Looks like you need a push upward at the cowl and a pull downward from the targa bar. Hard to tell from the picture. What about the gap a the front of the door. Is the car on the ground or not?

Careful. You can do more damage by using those tools. The safe/proper way to do it is with a Celette bench and 914 fixtures. If you're looking for a a quick fix-- don't, just live with it.

Just got the pm, replied and then found your post.

Do this:

Pulled the rocker cover on both sides and interior carpet on at least the right side.

Take photos so we can see what was done to the chassis. It is very likely chassis repairs were done while the car was on jack stands and the rear was sagged when the welding was done.

Get a helper and use the link I sent you and get measurements.

Post the results. We can go from there. It's really easy to bust the windshield or bend the car in the wrong place making matters worse. Because the car has a gap like that it is likely some wrong bending was attempted before you got it. That's the reason for the measurements.

I had a Camero come into the shop once that was hit real hard. The uni-body chassis was twisted. The owner had it repaired by a shop that advertised they were the best. The car ended up at my shop because there were issues steering and braking as well as wind noise.

We started to measure the car. We attempted to mount it on the Celette. We couldn't get the car to sit/align on three of four of the check sets. The shop that did the repair ended up paying the guy for the value of the car. The car went to salvage.

Wow! not good...concerning the Camero body. I don't want to mess that up...the good news is that I have not yet installed the carpet or the rocker covers so EVERYTHING in question is exposed. I'll try to get some really good pictures tonight.

I think you found your problem! Use a long (2-3ft) ruler and check the body panels. It looks like your rear right is hanging.

Also, jack up the car side-to-side and see how that affects the gap and door closing. If it remains the same, the hell hole and longs have been stiffened but not well repaired.
If the gaps change, you have will have to do some cutting and welding, with door braces in place.

Whatever you do, take small steps.

Have fun,
D

I looked at your photos. Based on what I see in the photos that car needs to go on a Celette. It appears someone tried square up the targa top fit by moving the windshield post on the drivers side to make up for the gap on the passenger side. I started to write a process to diagnose the chassis but the more I thought about it the more I would caution against it at the stage.

I would suggest you locate a shop with a Celette bench. You can save money on the cost of repairing the chassis by pulling the interior, front and rear suspension, windshield and lids. Send the car with the doors. Leave the windshield pillar seal on the car. This is will help get the best door to windshield fit.

The shop will set up the car and place all the fixtures in all the suspension pickup points and bumper mounting locations. This will ensure the chassis is square. Based on what I see there will likely be some bending as the car is fit to the fixtures. Once that is done the upper body can be un-twisted. This will cost some real money but based on how solid the car looks in the photos you posted and considering what you paid for the car I think it would be money well spent.

I think this could be done without damaging the paint.

Click to view attachment
Click to view attachment

Rick,
If I just want to enjoy the ride for now and plan for the big adjustment what do I do in the immediate future?
J

Hmmm... Do this, shoot a photo of both the drivers side square on and the passenger side square on and post them here. Let's start there. Maybe I can make a couple suggestions.

But really I think the car was welded while on jack stands and the passenger side rear body was sagging during the welding. Then it looks like someone tried to get the targa top to fit an bent the drivers side... So the car was bent and then bent again adding insult to injury. I really think it's time to get it right.

I'll get the pictures and some accurate measurements all over. I am talking with my local body guy to determine his access to the correct tools.
thanks!
j

Ok. With the measurements supplied on this site and a conventional chassis rack he should be able to get it close. Post the photos anyway if you want. I wouldn't mind seeing what's up.

I could be wrong but there doesn't look like enough total door gap to get that straight but maybeso.

Ditto on Mark's comment. Without the car in a jig and held in place, you'd make a mess.
In the coming months I'll be making those same welds. I'm making preparations to put the doors back on when I weld in the new longs. But still a little paranoid.

I was observing the same thing but until you get back away from the car a little with the camera it will be hard to confirm. Sometimes guys cut the quarter panel to do repairs and weld the outer panel on out of place. But were all just guessing until someone with skills get's eyeballs and a tape on the car. Looks like a nice paint job though.

Its unfortunate that the body work was botched because the paint job is nearly flawless. I will work to get some accurate measurements this weekend. I can tell there is a very small amount of filler on the rear quarter near the bottom of the door but I don't think there is enough there to account for the lack of gap between the door and the quarter panel.

I did talk to the PO this week and he said he sent it off to a Pro body shop and the senior body guy did all the body work and paint job. I can tell he replaced the jack mount on both sides as well as the stiffeners on both sides around the rear suspension. I would have thought that some one with that level of competency and going to that extent of repairs would have known that he needed to be very careful and meticulous with a unibody. I still haven't heard back from my own body guy about his access to body straightening equipment.
James

IMHO the door needs to be loosend up and adjusted first. It's low in the rear, and is a touch high in the front. That right there is throwing any real issues off

Now tell me what

(h) on the passenger side is ----->

(f) on the passenger side is ------>

(x) from the right and left crossover------>

Check the dimensions listed for these measurements and take your time to get them right. Use a metric tape measure. No measurement can be 3mm out of spec. That's three thicknesses of a dime. That's max tolerence in any direction.

http://www.914world.com/specs/bodydims.php

good painter , not so good rust repair.

Basically you will have to repair the repair