I have my timing set at 27 degrees at 3000RPM right now but I am finding bad hesitation on take off. I found this article referencing a similar problem although he is on a single carb and not duals.

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/archive/i...t-375515--.html

I was wondering two things:

1. Should I do what is suggested and advance my timing a bit more to maybe 12 degrees at 900-1000RPM? I am concerned this is too much advance based on other things I have read here.

2. I know you guys all hate the 009 so I am considering getting an original with the vac advance and just plug that. Does anyone have one? Also, what would be ideal to replace with if I wanted to spend the money? I have heard to put the Mallory on but not sure which one.

Thanks

before the experts chime in, I'll tell you what I just "experienced".
I had some concerns and similar issues with my '74 2.0L with simple dual 34icts using the 009.

changed back to the original/stock 011 distributor, and my off the line improved 100% IMHO.

I'm still playing with how much I'm advancing the timing, and still not getting fantastic advance after 3500+ rpms, but still an improvement.

I certainly wish I could find a 011 distributor. I found a Bosch on ebay with the vacuum advance but it is still a 009

This is what I am using. I am very happy with it... http://vwparts.aircooled.net/Aircooled-Net...-p/acn-svda.htm

That's not a bad price even with adding the petronix upgrade. Although it does appear to be on backorder with no plans to restock. Any other suggestions for a distributor? What Mallory should I get? Unilite? I have seen someone using a Mangaspark but it doesnt appear to fit on T4 engines. Any other suggestions are appreciated.

With regard to advancing the timing a bit, do I run the risk of burning a valve or anything if I advance it a few more degrees?

Try here. REad some good things about this guy but mostly about bugs.

http://www.lowbugget.com/009_and_SVDA_kits.html

The main page is here

http://www.lowbugget.com/main_page.html

I would get a better distributor before going any further. I am running 35 degrees full advanced. but my jetting is perfect and I run premium fuel. I would suggest getting an A/F gauge first. Then get your dizzy. Then dial in your jetting and advance. With you A/F gauge you will see in real time what effect your changes make.

Yes the Unilite with the vaccuum can is a great dizzy, because you can change the advance curve by changing springs. That will be my next dizzy when funds allow. Take your time and jet your carbs wisely. And it will yield performance and excellent MPG.

The one you are looking for fits the 914 1.8

Bosch 0 231 181 009 or
Bosch 0 231 176 048 or
Bosch 0 231 168 005 (replacement)

Advancing the timing might provide for a tad more power, but overheating the heads and dropping a valve probably isn't worth it.

And remember that vacuum advance is an emissions control / increased gas mileage concept. It only works when you have sufficient vacuum as in idling, steady state cruising or de-acceleration.

My head temps went down 25 degrees when I went from 28 to 35 degrees. I did it in steps of coarse with the appropriate jetting changes....

Photos for ya ....

Are any of these going to work 'better' for my application than another? I am seeing a few out there and wanted to know which would be best or should I just go by price?

I dont have a temp gauge for my head temps only for my oil temp. Since I am running carbs the stock sensor at cylinder #3 is cut off but is there a way to use that same location for another sensor? What sensor/gauge are you using?

Yes, oil temp is important, but it shouldnt be relied on as an indicator of how hot your engine is running. All though it is better than nothing. I started with one of these. http://www.dakotadigital.com/index.cfm/pag...prod/prd347.htm Which is good for trending. By trending I mean looking at temperature patterns. Up hills, down hills, cruise, etc. I put it on cylinder #3. The right cylinder head temp gauge tells you temp changes way faster than oil temp.

Then I got serious and got one of these, http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/inpages/1105698.php for a better over all picture. this gauge monitors all four cylinders and has a set point that goes into alarm when the temperature hits my preset level. It has a red light for the alarm, but i have it hooked up to an ultra bright little LED right in my dash pod. It's a real attention getter. Its a pretty trick little gadget. Of course I had to by the cheaper gauge first then end up buying the better unit in the end.

Where did u mount all three sensors?

The single cyl gauge is gone, now I'm using the 4 channel gauge. One channel per cylinder. Each sensor goes under each spark plug- the hottest part of the head. The sensor is nothing special, it's just a 14mm ring terminal that goes between the spark plug and the head. The wire that goes from the ring terminal to the gauge is special. I think it costs like 50 cents a foot. It's thermal couple wire in a steel braided jacket. I used quick disconnects for easy engine removal. well easy(er) engine removal. LOL