Selling the cage. What's the best way to remove it without trashing it or the car?

or a plasma cutter ...

Andy

Air arc (scarfing)......but good luck finding anyone to do it.....and you have to drape everything with fire proof mats.

Then there's the old standby

i'd cut it as close to possible at the welded seams, this way it will be easier to put back together...I hope whoever is buying it is a welder..if not, he's going to pay a nice price to have it properly welded into the car, sure it'll be cheaper than if the cage was new, but it's still going to be a few hours worth of work

If you are selling the cage then I would use a sawsall...I cut mine out with a plasma, but it would be very hard to re-assemble cause you lose a decent amount of material when cutting with a torch...especially on something like a cage where you want the fit to be good. Not to mention the flaming sparks that go everywhere (cover those windows if you dont want to replace them) ...

I defin wouldn't cut the rear hoop other than at the base where it welds on, otherwise I don't think it would be legal to use any more. I got mine out in 10 cuts...I cut the 6 tubes away from the rear hoop, cut the rear hoop away from the car, then pull rear hoop out, then cut front down tubes off the car and you should be able to wiggle the rest of the cage out of the car with the rear hoop out (I am assuming there are no seats or steering wheel in the way). You might need to cut the door bars out to gain some extra wiggle room, but unless you are shipping this thing the less you cut the better.

Anyway, I hope some of that made sense...

Tony

Thanks, guys. Sawzall it is. Neat the way this one comes apart..front and rear hoops are connected with sleeves that bolt together. 4 cuts at bases wil do it.

Sawzalls are good, but also I found a really neat tool for cutting thin/medium thicknes steel. It is a pneumatic recipicating saw, small but powerful little tool, fits right in the hand, you can very easily control it, and it can make tighter turns by far than the much larger sawzall. it is great for getting into tight places, and thus can make a very neat job of complicated cuts. It can cut nearly as fast, cause its ricipicating speed is many times higher. The power of the highspeed pnuematic saw per weight/size is better than any electric one. This means smaller and easier to control. So if you got a compressor, you might want to try one.

Mine I have had many years, purchansed at Price Club (what is now Costco) It is Allied brand, which makes knock offs of more expensive tools for discount stores. Dispite several car restorations of use, plus many other home uses, for at least a decade, this off brand sure has performed well. If your rollbar is welded in a tight corner like near the parking brake cable, you should be able to cut it pretty cleanly with one of these tools.

Sawzall's are great for fast easily accessible straighter cuts. They are a bit faster, so if that is what you are cutting, use the Sawzall, I one one of them also, it is a bit better suited for thicker stuff than than pnuematic, but dosen't handle as well, needs more space to manuver.

A pnuematic (o.k., I like airtools) cutoff wheel can be very handy in a job like this if you got welds on the car chassis you wish to remove. However downside is you got to protect the interior, and for heavens sake the windshield againt high speed chunks of firery metal and stone like disc fragments ejected the moment the disc touches the surface.

In a job like this you might require more than one tool.


Good Luck.

Need to see the before pics of the cage.

If the 4 tubes are mounted on the top of the rockers then a sawzall is the best choice. You can keep the blade right against the mounting plates and only lose about 1/16"+ of height.

Yup, that's the setup. Bet I'll need more blades, though.

Matt Brewer, you lucky winner Should be done by Sunday.