Full Version: Home Wheel Alignment
I have been talking to Ray Scruggs and he sent me his pdf file on how to home wheel align a 914. He said he didnt mind if I posted it up here for us. Which was pretty cool of him I thought. But I don't know how to post it. If you know how, pm me and I will email it to you.
Open the file and take a screen shot of each page.
Save each screen shot as a JPG file.
Post away.
rich
Save each screen shot as a JPG file.
Post away.
rich
PM sent...I have Adobe Acobat on my PC here at work. I could save each page as a image then easily posted.
Post the PDF just like you would a picture.
For now, right click, and save link as.... the attachment. then save it to your favorite place Click to view attachment
Tried it 4 times...never worked.
Just sat loading, and loading, and loading....Then timedout.
Just sat loading, and loading, and loading....Then timedout.
Yeah, didn't work for me either. When we do alignments on ATV's at our shop we use string or twine to measure and keep track of movement. It's pretty archaic compared to modern alignment machines, but it works well enough to keep our customers happy. I'm really curious to see how this works and if it's similar to the methods we use.
Man I've been trying to get a copy of this for a long time. If this doesn't work, you can always upload it to GoogleDocs and password it. Then just share the password here so we can access it. Thanks for reaching out to him for us!
sorry guys, were working on it.
hopefully we will get it fixed shortly.
hopefully we will get it fixed shortly.
QUOTE(Tilly74 @ Jan 24 2013, 02:46 PM) 
Yeah, didn't work for me either. When we do alignments on ATV's at our shop we use string or twine to measure and keep track of movement. It's pretty archaic compared to modern alignment machines, but it works well enough to keep our customers happy. I'm really curious to see how this works and if it's similar to the methods we use.
Its probly the same method. It worked great for me. thats why I wanted to share it.
I'll post the images first thing tomorrow morning when I get to work...
QUOTE(rmital @ Jan 24 2013, 04:00 PM)
I'll post the images first thing tomorrow morning when I get to work...
Right on bro. Thank you.
doug
QUOTE(sixnotfour @ Jan 24 2013, 04:41 PM)
Ya I've seen that one but thats not the same one. He has a 914 specific version....
the method is the same
....Bro, I think it's the old school front end alignment? involving
Twine & a board(2 by 4)...It's been discussed here
![popcorn[1].gif](http://www.914world.com/bbs2/style_emoticons/default/popcorn[1].gif)
Twine & a board(2 by 4)...It's been discussed here
Your right, but the rear suspension is totally different, and possibly the setup numbers too.
Great info - Thanks!
I've used string alignment setups for years for a variety of street, autocross and track cars. To do it "right," you'll need a very flat surface. I've used stacks of 1/8" thick 12"x12" vinyl flooring tiles to "shim" the garage floor, based on where the car will sit during the alignment process. Essentially, I just parked the car where I've got a lot of room around it to work and marked the tire footprints with chalk. Then you back the car up, place one vinyl tire over each mark, pull the car back on top to make sure the tire footprints are squarely in the middle, mark around each square with a felt-tip pen, pull the car back out, and paint over the edge of each square with spraypaint. It'll last for years; use different colors for each car.
You can then use a long piece of clear vinyl tubing taped to a vertical surface, fill it mostly with water and water to figure out the relative heights of each of the four squares. Rather than try to explain it, DIY Water Level provides a good explanation. Then shim with additional or fewer tiles until each square is at the same height as the other three. Use a Sharpie to write inside each "square" on the floor to record how many tiles are necessary to provide a flat surface. The tiles are less than a buck each at Home Despot (don't get the ones with the waxpaper covered stickiness).
I've used the jackstands method to hold the strings along both sides of the car, but I've found building a poor-man's Smart Strings setup is pretty easy. And this setup lets you move the car around to settle the suspension after each change to the alignment setting.
Below are some pics of the one I built last weekend (I seem to toss the previous version every time I move!). I've got about $30 bucks and an hour of my time into it. It is adjustable and works for my 914, as well as my two E36 BMWs.
First up is the front setup on the front of my car:
Click to view attachment
Next up is a close-up of some of the parts. You'll need four of the grey 1/2" PVC junction boxes ($2.50 each), four 3/4" white PVC tees ($0.80 each), eight 3/4" to 1/2" white PVC bushings ($0.40 each), four 1/2" white PVC elbows ($0.35 each), one 10' stick of 1/2" schedule 40 grey PVC pipe ($1.75) and two 10' sticks of 1/2" EMT galvanized metal conduits ($4.75 each). You'll also want to use 1" screws in place of the ones that come with the four grey junction boxes (those screws are too short); you use 'em to secure the metal conduit once you size things up. All the grey PVC parts are found in the Electrical section of your hated hardware store, and the white PVC parts are found in the Plumbing section. Be sure to curse the lack of helpful assistance in the aisles of the big box hardware stores while you're there...
Click to view attachment
Next is a close up of the front-side of the junctions. Note that you'll want the grey sched 40 PVC pipe to slide up/down through the white PVC bushings you glued into the tee (it won't as purchased!), and a head porting sandpaper cone makes short work of it. I suppose you could use a round bastard file, but that would take a lot of sweating and swearing -- and you probably won't file it very straight. You'll also need to slightly open up the grey junction box holes for the EMT to slide left/right; again the porting sanding cone works great for this. Note the screw in the white PVC tee; that locks the grey PVC pipe in the vertical adjustment once you get the measurements right. Essentially, you want the strings on each side of the car to pass horizontally at the hub centers.
Click to view attachment
Finally is a pic of the backside. Nuthin' too exciting. You don't need to, but I like to push-on (don't glue!) a cap or union on the top of the vertical PVC pipe so it doesn't slide off when making the initial adjustments.
Click to view attachment
You'll want to find the exact center of the front and rear of the car, mark it on the car (a small Sharpie mark is virtually invisible) and line it up with the center of the front and rear of the string bars -- if you want the car to drive straight down the road. Once you get the strings equi-distant from the center at the front and rear, and tighten the strings and it will stay put while you make your measurements and changes.
The four level squares on your garage floor can also be used to counter-balance your car -- but that's a whole 'nother story.
File this under Cheap Bastard Racing solutions...
You can then use a long piece of clear vinyl tubing taped to a vertical surface, fill it mostly with water and water to figure out the relative heights of each of the four squares. Rather than try to explain it, DIY Water Level provides a good explanation. Then shim with additional or fewer tiles until each square is at the same height as the other three. Use a Sharpie to write inside each "square" on the floor to record how many tiles are necessary to provide a flat surface. The tiles are less than a buck each at Home Despot (don't get the ones with the waxpaper covered stickiness).
I've used the jackstands method to hold the strings along both sides of the car, but I've found building a poor-man's Smart Strings setup is pretty easy. And this setup lets you move the car around to settle the suspension after each change to the alignment setting.
Below are some pics of the one I built last weekend (I seem to toss the previous version every time I move!). I've got about $30 bucks and an hour of my time into it. It is adjustable and works for my 914, as well as my two E36 BMWs.
First up is the front setup on the front of my car:
Click to view attachment
Next up is a close-up of some of the parts. You'll need four of the grey 1/2" PVC junction boxes ($2.50 each), four 3/4" white PVC tees ($0.80 each), eight 3/4" to 1/2" white PVC bushings ($0.40 each), four 1/2" white PVC elbows ($0.35 each), one 10' stick of 1/2" schedule 40 grey PVC pipe ($1.75) and two 10' sticks of 1/2" EMT galvanized metal conduits ($4.75 each). You'll also want to use 1" screws in place of the ones that come with the four grey junction boxes (those screws are too short); you use 'em to secure the metal conduit once you size things up. All the grey PVC parts are found in the Electrical section of your hated hardware store, and the white PVC parts are found in the Plumbing section. Be sure to curse the lack of helpful assistance in the aisles of the big box hardware stores while you're there...
Click to view attachment
Next is a close up of the front-side of the junctions. Note that you'll want the grey sched 40 PVC pipe to slide up/down through the white PVC bushings you glued into the tee (it won't as purchased!), and a head porting sandpaper cone makes short work of it. I suppose you could use a round bastard file, but that would take a lot of sweating and swearing -- and you probably won't file it very straight. You'll also need to slightly open up the grey junction box holes for the EMT to slide left/right; again the porting sanding cone works great for this. Note the screw in the white PVC tee; that locks the grey PVC pipe in the vertical adjustment once you get the measurements right. Essentially, you want the strings on each side of the car to pass horizontally at the hub centers.
Click to view attachment
Finally is a pic of the backside. Nuthin' too exciting. You don't need to, but I like to push-on (don't glue!) a cap or union on the top of the vertical PVC pipe so it doesn't slide off when making the initial adjustments.
Click to view attachment
You'll want to find the exact center of the front and rear of the car, mark it on the car (a small Sharpie mark is virtually invisible) and line it up with the center of the front and rear of the string bars -- if you want the car to drive straight down the road. Once you get the strings equi-distant from the center at the front and rear, and tighten the strings and it will stay put while you make your measurements and changes.
The four level squares on your garage floor can also be used to counter-balance your car -- but that's a whole 'nother story.
File this under Cheap Bastard Racing solutions...
That is a fantastic right up strawman! Thanks for the info. This will compliment Rays pdf when it gets posted tomorrow. I think Im gonna make these and realign my car. what keeps them attached to the car when you move the car to settle the suspension? I suppose as long as your fixture goes into the exact same place with each installment you could just mark the emt where the string should go. that would make re-setting up way faster. any pictures of the rear set up. and one more note, the strings should run in the same plane as the axles. And your fixtures are adjustable for that exact reason. I love it.
I was able to download the PDF.
Right click on the icon and select "save link as ..."
Save it and open it.
Right click on the icon and select "save link as ..."
Save it and open it.
QUOTE(Spoke @ Jan 24 2013, 07:50 PM)
I was able to download the PDF.
Right click on the icon and select "save link as ..."
Save it and open it.
wonderful spoke. thanks. i will edit my post...
Worked for me too...it just took a minute. Thanks!
QUOTE(Black22 @ Jan 24 2013, 07:58 PM)
Worked for me too...it just took a minute. Thanks!
Oh good. I edited the post with the attachment also.
QUOTE(mrbubblehead @ Jan 24 2013, 07:50 PM)
what keeps them attached to the car when you move the car to settle the suspension?
The design of this essentially wedges it in place, once the strings are tightened. The right-angle elbows pull against the inside of the trunk, while the EMT crossbar pulls against the bumper with tension on the strings. Hope it works for you!
That's awesome strawman - thanks!
QUOTE
First up is the front setup on the front of my car:
Just amazing. Thanks! Is the rear any different?
QUOTE(Eric_Shea @ Jan 25 2013, 09:06 PM)
Is the rear any different?
The rear verticals are longer, and the fore/aft is shorter. See the pic below. Hope this helps!
Click to view attachment
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